1975 135HP will not idle less than 1100rpm

[iwombat]

Re: 1975 135HP will not idle less than 1100rpm

Yes, the ones under the core plug!

And you've got the wrong orifice. Man, if I had a dollar . . . nevermind.

 

[Randyg123]

Re: 1975 135HP will not idle less than 1100rpm

Yes, the ones under the core plug!

And you've got the wrong orifice. Man, if I had a dollar . . . nevermind.

Yes, I edited my post above 'bout the same time you posted your answer. And yes, I was going to make a comment like that but held my tongue...Ooops

 

[ezeke]

Re: 1975 135HP will not idle less than 1100rpm

The idle jets are behind the screws on the sides of the carburetor bodies.

The idle capillaries are aft of the throttle plates, just before the intake manifold in the floor of the carburetor throats. You have to open the choke and throttle plates to see them.

 

[iwombat]

Re: 1975 135HP will not idle less than 1100rpm

thx ezeke, I should know better than to use "behind" and "in front" on a boat by now.


D'oh!

 

[Randyg123]

Re: 1975 135HP will not idle less than 1100rpm

Okay,

Thank you for straightening out the proper orifice situation...whew! Some of us landlubbers don't know our aft from a hole in the ground Still working on port and starboard (i keep reminding myself green, starboard, right - all big words).

I checked out the idle capillaries and all four sets appear to be fine or at least not clogged. Since everything looked squeaky clean when I took the carbs apart, I was not too surprised at this.

It has been suggested that I use wider idle jets to solve this problem. To compensate for the aging engine. I may try this since I have an extra set of the idle jets 30's that I can try to drill out a bit larger. I am told that I will loose a little on the top end performance (~5mph) but this is compensated by a dramatic improvement on the lower end with starting and idling. This doesn't sound like a bad compromise to me.

Any comments on opening up the idle orifices a bit?

I hate to drag this thread out but I am thinking of getting into two more areas - the intake manifold and the timing (correct timer base, sheared key, etc.). So I figure the intake manifold would be first. Can I simply pull the intake off, clean, and replace with a new gasket? Or is there more involved? It looks like I may need new leaf gaskets when I do this. Is that correct? The manual just says take off the manifold by removing bolts - put back on. that's about all the details it provides. what are the proper steps, what should I look for, what else is involved while I have the manifold off? Should I just start a new thread?

 

[ezeke]

Re: 1975 135HP will not idle less than 1100rpm

I would not change the jets, you will just waste fuel.

The intake manifold to crankase is just one large gasket, but you should be able to check the seal without removing it. It is much easier to inspect the reeds with the manifold removed, but don't even think of re-using the gasket.

 

[Randyg123]

Re: 1975 135HP will not idle less than 1100rpm

I was going to order the manifold gasket but when I looked at the drawing, it looked like the leaf assembly gaskets (4) would have to be replaced as well. When I pull the manifold off, where are the leaf assemblies? Are they attached to the manifold with bolts or screws separate from the ten bolts removed to take off the manifold? Do they remain attached to the block somehow? Do the fall out? And I figured if I am going to pull the manifold off, I might as well at least inspect the leaf assemblies for obvious damage or clogged screens/channels, etc.

I don't have my manual with me but I recall the steps for removing the manifold say remove the ten bolts and the to remove the 'pan' (I think that is what it said) remove two? screws. I have no idea what that statement was referring to.

Do I have to remove the carbs again and all or can I just take the manifold off with everything still attached (since I've already gone through those)?

 

[iwombat]

Re: 1975 135HP will not idle less than 1100rpm

It's going to be a whole lot easier to service the intake with the flywheel off. You might as well check the key and timer base first before even thinking about the intake manifold.

 

[Randyg123]

Re: 1975 135HP will not idle less than 1100rpm

It's going to be a whole lot easier to service the intake with the flywheel off. You might as well check the key and timer base first before even thinking about the intake manifold.

You would have to make it difficult

Now I have to find a HB Puller and fashion something to hold the flywheel. I think there is a sticky for this...right?

 

[iwombat]

Re: 1975 135HP will not idle less than 1100rpm

If you don't have a rattle-gun just put it in gear and block the prop from turning with a 2x4. That'll get it off just fine. Putting it back together you'll get some twisting in the drive shaft and prop that will throw off your torque settings some, but you can get it close if you overshoot a bit. It'll work if you're doing it once or twice. Any more than that and you really want to invest in some proper tools. Gotta have the puller though, but they're not very spendy.

 

[Randyg123]

Re: 1975 135HP will not idle less than 1100rpm

Sounds like fun. Had all my tools stolen a few months back and I am just now getting some of those replaced. Al the specialty stuff is what I do not have yet, buying as I go (and afford). Amazing how many tools you collect over the decades. Don't miss 'em til you don't have 'em. Back to the basics now, screwdrivers, combo wrenches, and a hammer! What the first two don't fix, the hammer will take care of!

 

[iwombat]

Re: 1975 135HP will not idle less than 1100rpm

Had all my tools stolen a few months back . . .

Thanks in advance for the nightmare I'll have tonight.


*shudder*

 

[ezeke]

Re: 1975 135HP will not idle less than 1100rpm

Another simple way to work the flywheel nut is to drop a bolt into one of the outer holes and use your socket as a fulcrum; works every time.

Click the thumbnail, please.

 

[Randyg123]

Re: 1975 135HP will not idle less than 1100rpm

Another simple way to work the flywheel nut is to drop a bolt into one of the outer holes and use your socket as a fulcrum; works every time.

Click the thumbnail, please.

Ooh..that is a darn skippy idea (keepin' it clean). Any advice as to making sure no damage is done to any components? This will not be too much pressure on the bolt hole (I assume I use at least a grade 5 bolt) to cause any damage will it?.

 

[iwombat]

Re: 1975 135HP will not idle less than 1100rpm

grade 8 - same as the ones you'll need to get for the puller.

 

[Randyg123]

Re: 1975 135HP will not idle less than 1100rpm

grade 8 - same as the ones you'll need to get for the puller.

I'll try to get some on the way home tonight. Anyone know what size/thread I'll need? I'll have to buy a new torque wrench too as my big was stolen, fortunately the baby wrench was in another location at the time but only goes up to about 250 inch/pounds. I assume the flywheel nut is more the 20ft/lb.

 

[ezeke]

Re: 1975 135HP will not idle less than 1100rpm

Three inside holes should be 5/16 fine.

The holes in the outer edge are not threaded, so get a hardened bolt that will fit; something around 17/64 will fit, but you would have to grind the threads off a 5/16 or 9/32.

Never did any damage to my flywheels on the V4s, but bent a few bolts by not having the lever at the bolt close enough to the flywheel. I've done the same thing for too many years to think it would suddenly do some damage.

Edit: The flywheel nut takes a 1-5/16" socket; torque 100 to 105 Foot Pounds.

 

[iwombat]

Re: 1975 135HP will not idle less than 1100rpm

I assume the flywheel nut is more the 20ft/lb.

Significantly.

Your HB Puller may come with the right size bolts included. The smaller motors take 1/4" bolts on the flywheels. Those almost never come with the puller.

 

[Randyg123]

Re: 1975 135HP will not idle less than 1100rpm

Three inside holes should be 5/16 fine.

The holes in the outer edge are not threaded, so get a hardened bolt that will fit; something around 17/64 will fit, but you would have to grind the threads off a 5/16 or 9/32.

Never did any damage to my flywheels on the V4s, but bent a few bolts by not having the lever at the bolt close enough to the flywheel. I've done the same thing for too many years to think it would suddenly do some damage.

Edit: The flywheel nut takes a 1-5/16" socket

Hate to beat this to death but I would like to pick up this stuff on my way home tonight so i don't have to make a trip later. I will use the recommended outer hole which is not threaded. so that means I need to pick up a grade 8 bolt (or two) that is 17/64 or smaller (or grind off the threads of one slightly larger. Are you implying that a 1/4" is too small to use for some reason? How long a bolt is too long or too short so it won't create any accidental damage to parts below or slip out too easy.

The HB puller should come with the 5/16 fine threaded bolts.

 

[ezeke]

Re: 1975 135HP will not idle less than 1100rpm

The manifold comes off without doing anything to the reeds and the reeds are easy to examine/check in place. I cannot think of any good reason to remove them unless you find damage or are going to change the reeds. See the thumbnail:

If you take the reed cages off you have to be very careful in replacing them so that the screws don't come loose and get ingested; if that happens, you will have much more work to do.

The outer holes on the flywheel are blind, about 3/5" deep.