1975 Sea Ray SRV190 Restoration

jrolland

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 11, 2008
Messages
86
This past June my Dad gave me his 1975 Sea Ray 190. It's has the potential to be a great boat it just needs a little TLC. I started working on it over the summer trying to get it ready for the water but I cut a tendon on my left hand in July so that really slowed down the process. By the time my hand was 100% it was time to winterize her. So now I have to wait until spring to do any more work on her. My plan is to restore it with the help of some friends.

Before I picked up the boat my Dad warned me that it has been sitting for a few years so it will need some work. I prepared myself for the worst and went to look at it. To my surprise the boat was not in bad shape. It was dirty but it was still shiny and luckily for me covered. Although the cover did have a few tears in it. When my Dad said it had been sitting for a few years I thought maybe 3 or 4 tops well it had been about 8 years since it was last registered and in the water. I took it home anyway because I have always loved the boat and thought I could do the work. After getting it home I cleaned it up and checked things so I could try and get it running. After a trip to the store for a new battery, all I got was click...click. I messed with it for the rest of the day and gave up. I called a friend of mine who owns a local marina and took it down there. They messed around with it and finally got it running. When I went to pick it up I was told it was going to need a few things. I braced myself and was told it would need a new starter, fuel pump, trim pump, plugs, wires water pump, all the bellows and the carb should be rebuilt. In addition to the mechanical the interior had seen better days.

I was not afraid of the list I was given because they told be that most of it can be done me. I have not replaced everything but I have replaced some things so far. So far the fuel pump along with a new fuel water separator, plugs, wires, some hoses, the trim pump (which will trailer up but won't go down or up) thermostat, and right now the outdrive is getting a new water pump and shaft seal because when I pulled it off there was O/D oil coming out. Also upon removing the O/D I discovered I will need to replace the shutters on the exhaust.

At first I was a little worried about the age of the boat and all the work that needed to be done but the marina that worked on it said I should do it. They told me that at some point the boat had been repowered and the newer engine has great compression and runs great. Not only that but the hull is in good condition for its age.

Right now there isn't really too much more I can do until spring. So for now I am working on some of the interior pieces. This winter I plan to refinish the teak trim pieces I was able to remove as well as rebuild some of the wood side pieces that were rotten.

Below are some pictures that show what the boat currently looks like. I know there are a lot of people on iboats that like the old rays so please feel free to give me your opinions and even some suggestions for the restoration. I am open to almost anything.

1.jpg


2.jpg


3.jpg


4.jpg


5.jpg


6.jpg
 

jrolland

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 11, 2008
Messages
86
Re: 1975 Sea Ray SRV190 Restoration

Since I can only post 6 pictures in one thread here are the rest.

7.jpg


8.jpg


9.jpg
 

mthieme

Captain
Joined
Oct 6, 2007
Messages
3,270
Re: 1975 Sea Ray SRV190 Restoration

Hmmmm.
Looks like mine!
Let me know if need any info.
 

Stoutcat

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 6, 2008
Messages
180
Re: 1975 Sea Ray SRV190 Restoration

Hi,

Congrats on a beautiful boat!

Just a quick question... How's the deck, stringers and transom?

Alan
 

legoman67

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 16, 2008
Messages
636
Re: 1975 Sea Ray SRV190 Restoration

the hull looks like its in really good shape. Also having a running engine is a plus. Like said earlier, check the transom and stringers. If they are soft or not there then they need to be done. search core sample.
 

oops!

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 18, 2007
Messages
12,932
Re: 1975 Sea Ray SRV190 Restoration

aaaahh i love the old rays...

and that one looks like its in fantastic shape.......

there are a few things i would be worried about.......

due to the fact that it was sitting.....depending on the climate you are in...(sorry i didnt see where you were from) you might have manifold problems if the boat was not winterized properly.
the manifold problem can be a tricky one to track down......but i hope all is well.

a few other things........as mentioned.....the stringers and the transom need to be checked to see if they are good.....you have a ski locker so the job is a lot easyer.........search core sample.

the other thing is .....that carpet is not stock.....so it is covering somthing up....or possibily hiding somthing.......
at the very least ...the carpet over the risers on the manifold needs to go so there is clearance between the risers and carpet....

over all that boat looks like it is in fantastic shape.....and any one would be happy to have it......

if you need any help or have any questions...just post here....

btw.....since you are layed up.....you have time to do a lot of reading on here....search core sample....rotten stringers and transom....
read the compleated projects forum....that will give you a good back ground....
the boat in the hull extension thread is a srv 190...(1969) so you can see detailes of the inside of every ionch of your boat.

cheers....and welcome to i boats :)
oops
 

jcsercsa

Captain
Joined
May 21, 2007
Messages
3,401
Re: 1975 Sea Ray SRV190 Restoration

Welcome there jrolland,

Nice ride , I see oops got his 2 cent in allready , He love sea rays !!

so your in great hands !! If you need any help just post here and one of use will get back asap !!

Again welcome !! John
 

mthieme

Captain
Joined
Oct 6, 2007
Messages
3,270
Re: 1975 Sea Ray SRV190 Restoration

Although the vinyl looks like it's been redone, mine had the same color from the factory including a darkish brown vinyl floor. This would be a more practical reason for the carpet replacement. (My grandsons job was to keep the deck wet on bright days - no way you walk on it in bare feet). But it looks like the whole interior has been done once - where are the seats?

My floor (and stringers of course) are completely sealed except all the way up by the nose for access to the eye bolts where the foam peeks out. This area is not an issue. The only holes in the floor are four lag bolts per lounge seat. The floor should also have humps in it where the seats mount. This coupled with the foam (and RR ties underneath!) are going to make it really hard to find a problem in the floor. Although I don't have the ski storage.
 

jrolland

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 11, 2008
Messages
86
Re: 1975 Sea Ray SRV190 Restoration

First of all thanks for the comments. I think that even though the boat is 30 plus years old it is still in good shape. I really lucked out with this one but my Dad usually takes pretty good care of his things which helps. There seems to be a few questions here so I will do my best to answer all your questions.

Hi,

Congrats on a beautiful boat!

Just a quick question... How's the deck, stringers and transom?

Alan

Everything seems to be solid although there is a very slight soft spot right in front of the engine compartment. Other than that though it is in good shape. Thank god!

aaaahh i love the old rays...

and that one looks like its in fantastic shape.......

there are a few things i would be worried about.......

due to the fact that it was sitting.....depending on the climate you are in...(sorry i didnt see where you were from) you might have manifold problems if the boat was not winterized properly.
the manifold problem can be a tricky one to track down......but i hope all is well.

a few other things........as mentioned.....the stringers and the transom need to be checked to see if they are good.....you have a ski locker so the job is a lot easyer.........search core sample.

the other thing is .....that carpet is not stock.....so it is covering somthing up....or possibily hiding somthing.......
at the very least ...the carpet over the risers on the manifold needs to go so there is clearance between the risers and carpet....

over all that boat looks like it is in fantastic shape.....and any one would be happy to have it......

if you need any help or have any questions...just post here....

btw.....since you are layed up.....you have time to do a lot of reading on here....search core sample....rotten stringers and transom....
read the compleated projects forum....that will give you a good back ground....
the boat in the hull extension thread is a srv 190...(1969) so you can see detailes of the inside of every ionch of your boat.

cheers....and welcome to i boats :)
oops

Thanks oops! I knew you would chime in at some point. Ha ha I have already checked out your hull ext thread and I have to say you are a doing a great job. It seems like a very ambitious project to take on but you seem to making it through with minimal visits from Murphy.

Now to try and answer your questions; I live in New Hampshire so the climate can be quite cold and snowy. However I am not sure if the boat was winterized because I was not able to start it but the marina I brought it to was. I was told that the boat runs great and I am sure they would have told me if there were any leaks. I will keep an eye out in the spring just to be safe, but I am not too concerned.

Like I said above everything seems to be solid although there is a very slight soft spot right in front of the engine compartment. I will investigate further in the spring but that is not a high priority at this point in time.

You are correct when you say the carpet is not stock. Ha ha it was added by my Dad to make the boat look less like something someone had thrown up in. It was a cheap and easy fix and he had every intention of doing it right he just doesn?t have much time to himself these days. You are also correct in saying it is hiding something. The carpet underneath is very dirty and ugly so he just through down the green stuff as a quick fix. I have already pulled up part of it and the glass under it looks pretty good.

Oh and just to clarify I am happy to say that my tendon has healed 100% although it took the better part of summer. I injured myself July 3rd and was unable to get surgery until the 17th so that just delayed my recovery time. So a couple months of physical therapy and 1 ruined summer later I am finally 100%

Although the vinyl looks like it's been redone, mine had the same color from the factory including a darkish brown vinyl floor. This would be a more practical reason for the carpet replacement. (My grandsons job was to keep the deck wet on bright days - no way you walk on it in bare feet). But it looks like the whole interior has been done once - where are the seats?

My floor (and stringers of course) are completely sealed except all the way up by the nose for access to the eye bolts where the foam peeks out. This area is not an issue. The only holes in the floor are four lag bolts per lounge seat. The floor should also have humps in it where the seats mount. This coupled with the foam (and RR ties underneath!) are going to make it really hard to find a problem in the floor. Although I don't have the ski storage.

I am not sure if my interior has been done before but the color that was chosen either factory or redone is awful! As far as I know there is no vinyl on the floor but there is a very dirty brownish colored carpet under the nice green Astroturf. The seats are done in the same color you see on the just under the controls in one of the pictures. The seats are actually in great shape and are sitting in my basement as I type. Instead of replacing them I was thinking about trying to dye the vinyl. I have never done it before but others have had good things to say.

I have a question for you. Have you redone your floor? Or is it stock? I am not sure if there are any humps where the seats go but I haven?t looked under the green carpet to that point. Like I said above the floor seems pretty solid except for a slight soft spot. So I am not sure how similar our floors are but I can only hope they are.

Thanks for the comments everyone please keep them coming and I will try to update the thread as I get things done!
 

mthieme

Captain
Joined
Oct 6, 2007
Messages
3,270
Re: 1975 Sea Ray SRV190 Restoration

With the exception of a transom modification, everything is original and solid.

I hope you'll post more pics as you go.
I've wondered about installing smart tabs...it's nice to see what they will would look like.:)
 

jrolland

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 11, 2008
Messages
86
Re: 1975 Sea Ray SRV190 Restoration

With the exception of a transom modification, everything is original and solid.

I hope you'll post more pics as you go.
I've wondered about installing smart tabs...it's nice to see what they will would look like.:)

Don't worry I will have plenty more pictures to post as soon as I get some more work done. It's funny you say that because it seems like everyone I talk to is jealous that I have them.
 

jrolland

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 11, 2008
Messages
86
Re: 1975 Sea Ray SRV190 Restoration

Here are some pictures of some of the teak and some of the side rails that I have to rebuild. I am not sure what I am going to do with the teak so if anyone has suggestions that would be great!

P1010412.jpg


P1010413.jpg


P1010414.jpg


P1010415.jpg


P1010416.jpg
 

mthieme

Captain
Joined
Oct 6, 2007
Messages
3,270
Re: 1975 Sea Ray SRV190 Restoration

I just simply oil my teak occassionally with teak oil. Unfortunately, it only looks good up until the oil soaks in and dries.
I've taken the trim off a few times and resanded them, but they really need replacing. It looks like your floor boards/compartment covers where varnished. This will be a regular maintenance item - revarnishing. I have a hydroplane once with a bottom that was shellaced. IT had 20 coats on it and lasted many years. Either way you go, put many coats on. Polyurathane is an option too. You'll need to scuff with sandpaper in between coats.
Don't sand varnish - it will just clog up the sand paper. Use a scraper to get the varnish off, then sand smooth. 100 or 150 grit will do.

Smart Tabs are on my spring drydock fix up list.

Looks like the wood behind some of that vinyl needs replacing...hope you have enough left to use for a template. Although, you could get creative. The concave shape is going to add a little extra work when it comes time to do the vinyl. I prefer flat surfaces with foam - makes it easier to pull tight. I'll put the vinyl down on the ground, then foam, then my wood. Stand on the wood so the foam compresses, pull your vinyl onto the back of the wood, staple it down with SS staples (or monel if you have extra cash to burn) and viola - a perfect piece everytime.
 

oops!

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 18, 2007
Messages
12,932
Re: 1975 Sea Ray SRV190 Restoration

i sanded down my walk thru teak peices and varnished them........thats a once a year job.....untill we can find a uv rated varnish.

dont be afaraid of the cosmetics.......as just mentioned above....they are easy.........btw......when you are doing the upholstery.....try to heat up the vinal just a wee bit.......(a light or blow dryer)....it makes the streach just a bit tighter
 

mthieme

Captain
Joined
Oct 6, 2007
Messages
3,270
Re: 1975 Sea Ray SRV190 Restoration

I use UV rated stuff, and you still have to at least touch it up every year.
But you don't have to sand.

How wide is that compartment?
 

jrolland

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 11, 2008
Messages
86
Re: 1975 Sea Ray SRV190 Restoration

I just simply oil my teak occasionally with teak oil. Unfortunately, it only looks good up until the oil soaks in and dries.
I've taken the trim off a few times and resanded them, but they really need replacing. It looks like your floor boards/compartment covers where varnished. This will be a regular maintenance item - revarnishing. I have a hydroplane once with a bottom that was shellaced. IT had 20 coats on it and lasted many years. Either way you go, put many coats on. Polyurathane is an option too. You'll need to scuff with sandpaper in between coats.
Don't sand varnish - it will just clog up the sand paper. Use a scraper to get the varnish off, then sand smooth. 100 or 150 grit will do.

Smart Tabs are on my spring drydock fix up list.

Looks like the wood behind some of that vinyl needs replacing...hope you have enough left to use for a template. Although, you could get creative. The concave shape is going to add a little extra work when it comes time to do the vinyl. I prefer flat surfaces with foam - makes it easier to pull tight. I'll put the vinyl down on the ground, then foam, then my wood. Stand on the wood so the foam compresses, pull your vinyl onto the back of the wood, staple it down with SS staples (or monel if you have extra cash to burn) and viola - a perfect piece everytime.

Thanks for the tips! I plan on getting to it sometime after Thanksgiving. I am planning on replacing all the wood. I thought at first it was OK but then I figure I might as well replace it anyway. I plan leaving the trim piece off so it is flat which will make it easier to put the vinyl on. I was however toying with the idea of adding a trim piece in a different color to the outside that way the color is broken up a little. I'm not sure yet we will see when it comes time to do it. What do you think?

As far as the teak goes should I use some sort of stain? Minwax makes a product called Helmsman Spar Urethane. It seems like it would be perfect for a marine application. I have never been a fan of the high gloss finishes so I was thinking that a satin finish would be perfect. Has anyone used it or have any other suggestions?

i sanded down my walk thru teak pieces and varnished them........that?s a once a year job.....until we can find a uv rated varnish.

dont be afaraid of the cosmetics.......as just mentioned above....they are easy.........btw......when you are doing the upholstery.....try to heat up the vinal just a wee bit.......(a light or blow dryer)....it makes the streach just a bit tighter

I will keep that in mind when I get to the vinyl part. I'm not really afraid of the cosmetics as I am low on funds but I figure if I do things when I can afford it, it will work out just fine.

I use UV rated stuff, and you still have to at least touch it up every year.
But you don't have to sand.

How wide is that compartment?

The boat is not readily available for me to measure the opening but I was able to measure the cover. The cover measure about 1 ft 3 in. So I can't imagine the opening being too much wider. Hope this helps.
 

mthieme

Captain
Joined
Oct 6, 2007
Messages
3,270
Re: 1975 Sea Ray SRV190 Restoration

Personally I'm not a big fan of stain. The Minwax should be good. Minwax floor products are the most durable (don't know about the UV rating though). On Mahogany I like it bright, but it's more maintenance.
I can't recall ever seeing gloss Teak on a boat.
Sometimes it boils down to what I have on the shelf! For some reason quality varnish and shellac got scarce at the local hardware stores a few years back. I'm toying with an acrylic finish now. It goes on better than anything else, excellent finish, durability ain't there though.

I do workworking - mostly furniture. Religiously I use Watco to bring out the grain and then a clear rendition of whatever the piece mandates, varnish being a favorite. Never done this on boats though as the situation never really warranted it. I still recommend just using Teak oil.

The cover dimension helps. I asked because I have thoughts of putting a belly tank in mine. I think it's 26" wide if memory serves. I've only seen under the floor of one of these and can't recall it exactly. I vaguely remember beams going from side to side. I might have to create another post - someone has one torn down in another thread.
thanks

I expect to pull mine for the season today.
If you want any pics for comparison (or whatever), let me know before I get her covered.

Oh, on the bow. Is that a hatch or just decoration?
Another thought that crossed my mind is putting a hatch forward for anchor stowage.
 

jrolland

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 11, 2008
Messages
86
Re: 1975 Sea Ray SRV190 Restoration

Personally I'm not a big fan of stain. The Minwax should be good. Minwax floor products are the most durable (don't know about the UV rating though). On Mahogany I like it bright, but it's more maintenance.
I can't recall ever seeing gloss Teak on a boat.
Sometimes it boils down to what I have on the shelf! For some reason quality varnish and shellac got scarce at the local hardware stores a few years back. I'm toying with an acrylic finish now. It goes on better than anything else, excellent finish, durability ain't there though.

I do workworking - mostly furniture. Religiously I use Watco to bring out the grain and then a clear rendition of whatever the piece mandates, varnish being a favorite. Never done this on boats though as the situation never really warranted it. I still recommend just using Teak oil.

The cover dimension helps. I asked because I have thoughts of putting a belly tank in mine. I think it's 26" wide if memory serves. I've only seen under the floor of one of these and can't recall it exactly. I vaguely remember beams going from side to side. I might have to create another post - someone has one torn down in another thread.
thanks

I expect to pull mine for the season today.
If you want any pics for comparison (or whatever), let me know before I get her covered.

Oh, on the bow. Is that a hatch or just decoration?
Another thought that crossed my mind is putting a hatch forward for anchor stowage.

I don't know maybe I'll give that minwax a try on one of the pieces and see how it goes. I know everyone says that it will be a yearly maintenance thing but if I can get away without doing it every year then I am fine with that. I'll post pics and such when I do it.

I was planning on going up to the boat tomorrow to check on some things. I can get you some pics and measurements of the ski locker as well if you want. Wow I can't believe you haven't puller her out yet. It has been freezing up here for a while now. If you don't mind though I would love some pics. I am sure it will help me out quite a bit. As of right now I don't have a clue as to what I want for the interior.

Yep that is hatch. I was going to pull it off so I can refinish it with the rest of the pieces but I left it just in case it snowed or rained. I didn't want too much crap getting in there. Not to mention all the damn leaves that are still flying around where I am storing it.
 

jrolland

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 11, 2008
Messages
86
Re: 1975 Sea Ray SRV190 Restoration

The cover dimension helps. I asked because I have thoughts of putting a belly tank in mine. I think it's 26" wide if memory serves. I've only seen under the floor of one of these and can't recall it exactly. I vaguely remember beams going from side to side. I might have to create another post - someone has one torn down in another thread.
thanks

I wasn't able to get any pictures of the ski locker becuase my camera was acting up. I did however get some measurements for you. The locker on the inside measures 22 in wide. I don't know about your boat but my locker is all glassed in and pretty much sealed except for a hole in the bottom for drainage.
 
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