1976 Grady White Transom Rebuild

[Slager]

For the stringers, you want them suspended off the hull about 1/4 in. If they are in contact with the hull, the imperfect fit can cause "hard" spots which can cause cracking over time. After coating the bottom of mine with resin and letting it tack up, I suspended mine at the height I wanted and then pushed the pb under them. I used a gallon ziploc with the corner cut off like a pastry frosting bag to dispense it. Then I used a big plastic spoon to give the fillet a radius.

The added strength at the old to new stringer joint shouldn't be a problem.

For the transom, the pb acts as a glue to keep the wood and outer skin attached. It also fills any voids. If the wood and outer skin are not attached, there will be excessive flex in the transom which could lead to cracking. Although pb is the most recommended option, if the outer skin is pretty smooth you could use a different glue. Some have used PL premium construction adhesive, but it has a very long cure and off gas time (at least 72 hours or more). You could also use a layer of csm and resin. I would suggest you try and grind a bit to make the opening bigger, so it isn't such a tight fit. Some pb getting pushed to the bottom is probably ok as long as there is enough still there to glue it properly.

 

[Woodonglass]

Transom should have 1/4 to 1/2 inch gap all around this allows the on to ooze out and seal the edges check the second link in my signature line below

 

[demarko210]

For the stringers, you want them suspended off the hull about 1/4 in. If they are in contact with the hull, the imperfect fit can cause "hard" spots which can cause cracking over time. After coating the bottom of mine with resin and letting it tack up, I suspended mine at the height I wanted and then pushed the pb under them. I used a gallon ziploc with the corner cut off like a pastry frosting bag to dispense it. Then I used a big plastic spoon to give the fillet a radius.

Understand on this one. Suspend at the needed height ( in my case 2 joints to hold stringer in place) then squeeze PB under covering all spaces between Hull->PB->Board, then smooth with spoon. I was thinking of doing PB to hull then lay stringer but I like your way better.

 

[demarko210]

The added strength at the old to new stringer joint shouldn't be a problem.

For the transom, the pb acts as a glue to keep the wood and outer skin attached. It also fills any voids. If the wood and outer skin are not attached, there will be excessive flex in the transom which could lead to cracking. Although pb is the most recommended option, if the outer skin is pretty smooth you could use a different glue. Some have used PL premium construction adhesive, but it has a very long cure and off gas time (at least 72 hours or more). You could also use a layer of csm and resin. I would suggest you try and grind a bit to make the opening bigger, so it isn't such a tight fit. Some pb getting pushed to the bottom is probably ok as long as there is enough still there to glue it properly.

Ok.

The skin is smooth. What I will do is take close up of the skin with my cannon from an angle. I have sanded and cleaned it with tone. The way I cut the transom was making a template from the outside and cutting it down from the measurement on the inside.Now cutting wasnt good but fits tight from end to end and has limited movement already without being tabbed in yet. The side of the hull comes out about 6 inches (gunwale) each side which the ends of the transom slide down into. That gunwale is glass over foam. Are you able to see the folders with all the pictures in there? I will measure my outter skin also and give a measurement. I dont think I need to grind that down anymore. The original wood was 1.5 inches with a dis-bonded woven inner skin. I decided to go with 1.43 inch and build a layer biax. I will use PB without a doubt but i was wondering really would it be needed in my case.

 

[demarko210]

Transom should have 1/4 to 1/2 inch gap all around this allows the on to ooze out and seal the edges check the second link in my signature line below

I read the link many times very helpful btw, even a few years ago when i kneel to the fact that i would have to do this one day (denial). The way your method shows (correct me if wrong) if you were going to place the transom in place on the PB->outer skin and squeeze together. I can not place mines unless

1. i cut the transom wood around the gunwales but i would have a huge gap behind the gunwale that would need to be filled. it was wood there so I place wood back.
2. i cut the gunwale out on both sides far enough so i can place the transom on the PB->outer skin and replace the gunwale on each side (too much work).

So i have to slide mines into the slot which there is not much room once the board slides down. I am just predicting that if I spread PB to thick on the outer skin it will all end up in the grass and filling the voids at the bottom and onto the bilge and hull.

 

[demarko210]

Here is another link encase you cant see. Notice the wood and the gunwale. been to hot to try to resin. Is it ok to resin early in the morning around 5am before 85 degree. I wake before the chickens.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9...WRwSGIyaWxHeFE

 

[Slager]

Ok.

The skin is smooth. What I will do is take close up of the skin with my cannon from an angle. I have sanded and cleaned it with tone. The way I cut the transom was making a template from the outside and cutting it down from the measurement on the inside.Now cutting wasnt good but fits tight from end to end and has limited movement already without being tabbed in yet. The side of the hull comes out about 6 inches (gunwale) each side which the ends of the transom slide down into. That gunwale is glass over foam. Are you able to see the folders with all the pictures in there? I will measure my outter skin also and give a measurement. I dont think I need to grind that down anymore. The original wood was 1.5 inches with a dis-bonded woven inner skin. I decided to go with 1.43 inch and build a layer biax. I will use PB without a doubt but i was wondering really would it be needed in my case.

Yes, I was able to see your pictues, but using a method that allows them to be imbedded in the text would be nice. What ever you end up doing, you will definitely want to have the wood glued to the outer skin. The transom will flex and the surfaces will slide over each other with every wave if their not glued together. I would cut out part of the gunwales so you have more room. You could remove about 1/2 in and fill with pb, or take a couple inches off and fill with foam. You will also want to make sure the entire transom is covered with either fiberglass or pb. If you don't cut the gunwales enough to have access to the edges of the transom, I would suggest you cover them with csm before you install it.

 

[kcassells]

Well the wood should have gone into the corners with a small gap. All that gunwale wood left there is shot anyway. You have a dimema. The flex will kill ya in those reas.
Option 1;
Recut a new transom that fits the opening.
option 2:
Not advocating cause I have not used it. You may be able to pour a composite into the openings that may make a bond to the existing transom. It's called Seacaste and is not cheap.
I think a new cut transom is the way to go. And just clean off the old woods hanging there. No harm no foul. You're questions were right because of your concerns.
Well back to my boat in 97 degree wetter.

 

[demarko210]

Yes, I was able to see your pictues, but using a method that allows them to be imbedded in the text would be nice. What ever you end up doing, you will definitely want to have the wood glued to the outer skin. The transom will flex and the surfaces will slide over each other with every wave if their not glued together. I would cut out part of the gunwales so you have more room. You could remove about 1/2 in and fill with pb, or take a couple inches off and fill with foam. You will also want to make sure the entire transom is covered with either fiberglass or pb. If you don't cut the gunwales enough to have access to the edges of the transom, I would suggest you cover them with csm before you install it.

Pictures I take are too large to post here. I dont have a windows computer to resize in paint, i have a linux box that i use and the picture editor does not allow me to resize. Ii will try to start posting on my laptop windows. ok the transom when installed let me say really does move onces dry fitted a little front to back. I really do not want to cut gunwale because I figure I will not know how to fix (fixing everything else on this boat lol). What i will do is add the PB and have my son pull back on the outer skin a little while I slide the board into the slot. For the little size difference in the boards in these pictures

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9...WRwSGIyaWxHeFE

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9...0VDdkh6SHdvVms

does this matter. Its only about .75" x 10" inches down on each side and then the wood matches up at the gunwale.

Here is another picture i found on my phone when Ii was dry fitting the boards. Ii have some room between the skin. Sorry for typing "Ii" means I. my keyboard types double sometimes. here is the link

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9...mx0TmdpY1ZsU00

I do have some room and I forgot that i had the boards clamp and all thread to the outer skin after I took the pictures.

 

[demarko210]

Well the wood should have gone into the corners with a small gap. All that gunwale wood left there is shot anyway. You have a dimema. The flex will kill ya in those reas.
Option 1;
Recut a new transom that fits the opening.
option 2:
Not advocating cause I have not used it. You may be able to pour a composite into the openings that may make a bond to the existing transom. It's called Seacaste and is not cheap.
I think a new cut transom is the way to go. And just clean off the old woods hanging there. No harm no foul. You're questions were right because of your concerns.
Well back to my boat in 97 degree wetter.

The transom fits fine KC. I still have not stain the transom yet with the resin. kinda nervous that I will make a mistake or something so I am just taking my time planning what is the best time for me to open this resin in this heat. Ii have been scabbing 1/4 to the 3/4 stringer while i decide what to do and what advice I get from the you and the fellas. Will bondo fib resin and poly compatiable? I have 2 quarts of that i bought and never open i will practice a little with that making some PB. The old wood i will remove but its not transom wood, its wood rivet connected the cap I will replace that with resin wood. The gunwale are not made from wood they are CSM on top and about 1/4 of glass. I cut into one trying to chisel the transom wood out during the demo. That how I know its foam inside.

 

[demarko210]

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B95_CdtAK79Bc2JvSEVpbHV6blU

 

[Slager]

Pictures I take are too large to post here. I dont have a windows computer to resize in paint, i have a linux box that i use and the picture editor does not allow me to resize. Ii will try to start posting on my laptop windows. ok the transom when installed let me say really does move onces dry fitted a little front to back. I really do not want to cut gunwale because I figure I will not know how to fix (fixing everything else on this boat lol). What i will do is add the PB and have my son pull back on the outer skin a little while I slide the board into the slot. For the little size difference in the boards in these pictures

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9...WRwSGIyaWxHeFE

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9...0VDdkh6SHdvVms

does this matter. Its only about .75" x 10" inches down on each side and then the wood matches up at the gunwale.

Here is another picture i found on my phone when Ii was dry fitting the boards. Ii have some room between the skin. Sorry for typing "Ii" means I. my keyboard types double sometimes. here is the link

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9...mx0TmdpY1ZsU00

I do have some room and I forgot that i had the boards clamp and all thread to the outer skin after I took the pictures.

For posting pictures, setting up a photo bucket account and copying and pasting the img code works well.

I would trim so that both plywood layers are lined up and fill the gap between wood and hull with pb. I would fill it in two steps, first fill it to be even with the wood, filling the whole gap, then add a radius to where it meets the hull so the glass can make the turn.

Have you glued your transom boards together yet or is that last picture old?

Bondo resin is polyester, but I have heard it often has an extremely short working time.

 

[demarko210]

For posting pictures, setting up a photo bucket account and copying and pasting the img code works well.


Have you glued your transom boards together yet or is that last picture old?

Bondo resin is polyester, but I have heard it often has an extremely short working time.

I think I set up one but got alot of popup when i went on the site. I did glue the transom together but have not add resin to it yet. I was going to make the bondo just to get a feel mixing stuff before i open the 5 gallon poly. The last picture i am clamping 1/4 to 3/4 ply to make 1 for stringer

 

[demarko210]

From yesterday

 

[demarko210]

WOW look at that big old error someone need to fix on this website. I am a developer and for hire if you are reading this. Just tried to post a picture and this is what happened. DANG

 

[demarko210]

Pictures

 

[Slager]

You should pm a mod and ask them to delete that mess.

 

[demarko210]

Slager


How do I do that?

 

[kcassells]

Frak, I hate looking at pics like this. Photbucket has a something like $2.00 a week deal so no pop ups. Albeit it is an effort still to use but end result is alot better.
Anyway didn't look at all the pics pia.

 

[Woodonglass]

It's almost impossible to replace your transom the way you describe cut out the inner skin and either cut the gunwhales or remove the entire top cap Really no othe way