1976 Johnson 25 25RL76E

[IM Buddy8]

Hello,

I just purchased this boat, trailer, and motor listed above together. The previous owner says it ran fine last summer but he hasn't had it in the water to run it lately. He says it may need a couple of plugs but he's not sure. AKA who knows.. The trailer may need some tires but otherwise is O.K. it's a little rough but seems to work? Boat itself doesn't seem too bad. The throttle and gear controlls need to be fastened better and the steering looks pretty ghetto but I don't know too much about boats.. I'll post more pictures soon but the one below is to give a better idea which engine I have.

I took the chance hoping it will run and I would like some input on what I should do to get it running properly. If there are any standard carb settings I should know, or how the ignition system works on this specific model. Any advice on getting this thing running strong and reliable would be great. The proper steps to getting it running out of water without harming it.
I purchased this air muff thing from walmart that is for flushing the motor but I'm not sure how to hook that up to it yet..

Is there any common failures on these I should be aware of before digging into this? Like a fuel pump diaphram or something that may dry rot and leak. I'm just throwing out things so I have an idea what to look for. I have a decent amount of experience with lawnmowers, weedwackers, snowblowers etc, but never worked on a boat motor. Also would like to know the proper mixture and type of oil to use.

Thank you for any help you an provide and I'll continue to update the thread as I work on it!
-Ryan

 

[jasper60103]

Re: 1976 Johnson 25 25RL76E

Ryan,
welcome aboard and congrats on the new boat purchase.
Don't use muffs on this type of motor. Put it in a barrel of water.
50:1 fuel mix for the motor.

I would start with a compression and spark test.
Also, the top secret files will provide lots of good info...
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=299680

Good luck.

 

[IM Buddy8]

Re: 1976 Johnson 25 25RL76E

Ryan,
welcome aboard and congrats on the new boat purchase.
Don't use muffs on this type of motor. Put it in a barrel of water.
50:1 fuel mix for the motor.

I would start with a compression and spark test.
Also, the top secret files will provide lots of good info...
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=299680

Good luck.

Thanks for your help sorry I didn't see the sticky earlier! Can you tell me where the water intake is so I make sure the barrel is deep enough? I can't really tell. I'm a boat noob but a small engine genie haha. I could probably look longer and figure it out but if you have a picture or height that would help.
Thanks!

 

[jasper60103]

Re: 1976 Johnson 25 25RL76E

Thanks for your help sorry I didn't see the sticky earlier! Can you tell me where the water intake is so I make sure the barrel is deep enough? I can't really tell. I'm a boat noob but a small engine genie haha. I could probably look longer and figure it out but if you have a picture or height that would help.
Thanks!

Here's an example. The water level should be about 5-6" above the water pump...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23Q7bs5lx4I

 

[OptsyEagle]

Re: 1976 Johnson 25 25RL76E

and the water pump sits just above where the lower unit attaches to the mid-section. So 3 inches above that should prime the pump and get you good to go for water.

 

[IM Buddy8]

Re: 1976 Johnson 25 25RL76E

Unfortunately I'm not ready to start it in a bucket..

I removed the spark plugs and the motor turns over smoothly but it does look a little dirty on the top of the pistons. The spark plugs were pretty wet.

- I hooked up my spark tester and made sure I had it grabbing onto a good ground that I confirmed with an continuity check. No spark, tried both plug wires both no spark. I pulled it at a speed I "think" should have been plenty to see a spark. It was dark out and I shut off flashlight so I'm sure there was no spark.

- I unhooked the two plugs going to the Kill Switch (Picture A) and checked it with an ohm meter and it seemed to fluctuate a lot and if I played with the switch pushing it in and wiggling around I would sometimes get a 0.01 resistance reading, but if I didn't touch button it was around 150.0-190.0 (I think).
Picture A: (Wires I was testing were two lower plugs for continuity)


- Next I made sure the ignition packs were properly grounded and the short ground wire that goes to the bottom bolt of each one was also grounded.


-I also checked that the engine block has continuity with the lower engine shell by this wire in this picture:


- I didn't get to check these wires continuity to the ignition pack (any help on how to get at them would be helpful. Does it work like a lawnmower with the points on the flywheel that make the spark on each revolution?


PLEASE HELP me get spark back

Unrelated to spark questions below:
-Here is a picture of the thing that slides counter clockwise if I increase the throttle arm. It doesn't go far enough to make contact to actually move the throttle flap linkage on the carb? Is that normal if the engine is off? I've never seen a throttle like this before..


Thank you in advance for any help. I'd love to get this thing running and use it once before winter!

 

[IM Buddy8]

Re: 1976 Johnson 25 25RL76E

Unfortunately I'm not ready to start it in a bucket..

I removed the spark plugs and the motor turns over smoothly but it does look a little dirty on the top of the pistons. The spark plugs were pretty wet.

- I hooked up my spark tester and made sure I had it grabbing onto a good ground that I confirmed with an continuity check. No spark, tried both plug wires both no spark. I pulled it at a speed I "think" should have been plenty to see a spark. It was dark out and I shut off flashlight so I'm sure there was no spark.

- I unhooked the two plugs going to the Kill Switch (Picture A) and checked it with an ohm meter and it seemed to fluctuate a lot and if I played with the switch pushing it in and wiggling around I would sometimes get a 0.01 resistance reading, but if I didn't touch button it was around 150.0-190.0 (I think).
Picture A: (Wires I was testing were two lower plugs for continuity)
View attachment 169790

- Next I made sure the ignition packs were properly grounded and the short ground wire that goes to the bottom bolt of each one was also grounded.
View attachment 169791

-I also checked that the engine block has continuity with the lower engine shell by this wire in this picture:
View attachment 169794

- I didn't get to check these wires continuity to the ignition pack (any help on how to get at them would be helpful. Does it work like a lawnmower with the points on the flywheel that make the spark on each revolution?
View attachment 169792

PLEASE HELP me get spark back

Unrelated to spark questions below:
-Here is a picture of the thing that slides counter clockwise if I increase the throttle arm. It doesn't go far enough to make contact to actually move the throttle flap linkage on the carb? Is that normal if the engine is off? I've never seen a throttle like this before..


Thank you in advance for any help. I'd love to get this thing running and use it once before winter!

Please ignore the last attached image in the previous post. This is supposed to be the last image to go along with
Unrelated to spark questions below:
-Here is a picture of the thing that slides counter clockwise if I increase the throttle arm. It doesn't go far enough to make contact to actually move the throttle flap linkage on the carb? Is that normal if the engine is off? I've never seen a throttle like this before..

 

[tx1961whaler]

Re: 1976 Johnson 25 25RL76E

-Here is a picture of the thing that slides counter clockwise if I increase the throttle arm. It doesn't go far enough to make contact to actually move the throttle flap linkage on the carb? Is that normal if the engine is off? I've never seen a throttle like this before..

The cam follower opens up the carb butterfly as the throttle is advanced. The throttle probably can't be advanced all of the way because it is in neutral.

 

[IM Buddy8]

Re: 1976 Johnson 25 25RL76E

Thank you for clearing that up TX1961, I assumed it was something like that but wanted to make sure first.

I'm attaching a few more images of me using an ohm meter at the spark plug coils. (I realized there is a driver coil under the flywheel too)
Let me know what you think of these readings. Both of them read the same so I feel they are either both bad or both good, but I can't remember which readings mean what.

The two images where the reading is at about 30ohms started at about 23 ohms and quickly climbed up to about 40 and slowly continued to rise from there. I'm not sure if that was normal behavior, both of them did that too when I had the leads hooked up in the way they are in the picture.




Thanks,
Ryan

 

[OptsyEagle]

Re: 1976 Johnson 25 25RL76E

I am not an expert on the 25Hp motor of that year but I do have experience with points and condenser motors that look like yours that do not have any spark. Most likely your points are corroded (just like those coils) and not providing any spark. To fix them, you will need to pop the flywheel and clean them up (unless they are all pitted, then you should replace them). To clean them, I would give them a gentle file with a points file, then pull the clean part of a business card dipped in laquer thinner through them a few times, blowing them with compressed air each time. Ensure they are set to 0.020" gap. Add one drop of motor oil to the cam wick. You can put the flywheel back on and just tighten it up snug and check to see if your spark has returned. Best to use an external spark tester and ensure the spark can jump at least a 3/8" gap. If it does, torque down that flywheel to spec.

Personally, I would change those coils anyways. They look like a problem waiting to happen, however, if you get good spark from cleaning up the points you can leave them if you like.

 

[IM Buddy8]

Re: 1976 Johnson 25 25RL76E

Thank you eagle for the info. Very helpful. Unfortunately I tried to remove the flywheel with a harmonic balancer puller and I pulled the threads for the three bolts out.. Does anyone know what size I should drill and tap to next? I'll buy shouldered bolts to match the threads. I realize this has to be perfect and I don't have too many more shots left at it : (

Any advice is greatly appreciated... I need to get to the points!

 

[KathyD19]

Re: 1976 Johnson 25 25RL76E

Just wanted to pop in and say welcome to this board! I don't have any answers to your specific questions but I'll tell you, you have wandered into a VAST wealth of knowledge from some of the nicest people. They have helped me get a '56 motor going and I have no mechanical experience. Showing lots of pictures with your questions, as you have done, is very helpful as well. I have no doubt you'll get her running and on the water before the season is over. Good luck!

 

[tx1961whaler]

Re: 1976 Johnson 25 25RL76E

The holes were tapped for 1/4-20 bolts

 

[IM Buddy8]

Re: 1976 Johnson 25 25RL76E

The holes were tapped for 1/4-20 bolts

What size do you suggest I tap them to? Also what size drill bit is required for the size tap you are suggesting?

Thanks again
Ryan

 

[IM Buddy8]

Re: 1976 Johnson 25 25RL76E

I'm planning on tapping 5/16 threads into it. I bought grade 8 bolts and washers for the puller.

Does anyone know what size I need to drill the hole out to first?

 

[tx1961whaler]

Re: 1976 Johnson 25 25RL76E

(5/16)-18 or (5/16)-24

 

[IM Buddy8]

Re: 1976 Johnson 25 25RL76E

Long story short.. I need a new flywheel, but the old one is off... Does anyone know which years if any are interchangable with a 1976 Johnson 25?

Thanks,
Ryan

 

[AlTn]

Re: 1976 Johnson 25 25RL76E

there's one currently on ebay..or try the salvage yards listed under the Top Secret Files sticky

 

[IM Buddy8]

Re: 1976 Johnson 25 25RL76E

I ended up purchasing a whole new powerhead from a nice man that lived close by. It has good working electronics so I'm going to swap those over to my motor and see if it runs. He also gave me a flywheel with it so I "should" be good to go! Thanks for the help and I'll keep you all posted!