1976 Johnson 70hp won't crank

[Fed]

It's not supposed to click when you turn it to ON, clicking when you turn it to START is good as that eliminates all the smaller control wiring, switches & fuse.

On the high Amp side we know some things from your jumper cable trick, the battery is good & the starter motor is good.

A very important question.

So i did the jumper cable trick and walaa the engine cranked right up and runs like a dream.

When you did your jumper cable trick... EXACTLY what did you do?
Knowing this will help pin point the problem.
The upside is you are now the proud owner of 2 spare solenoids.

 

[dormanxc04]

It only clicked like you're saying when i went to START it. Not when i turned the switch to on. It clicked between 6-8 times Then stopped. A few weeks ago is when the flywheel started to turn really slow. And now im just getting to fixing it.
So Sunday i went to start and thats when it clicked. So i tried the jumper cables. I simply connected the positive on the battery to the positive on the starter and it cranked right up. With and without that new auto solenoid. The fuse is good i know. The neutral safety switch should be ok because when it started a few weeks ago i was jiggling the handle and accidently shifted into forward and it stopped trying to turn the fly wheel. So im just assuming that i need the oem solenoid and it should fix it. Am i on the right line?

 

[dormanxc04]

I never connected the negative on the battery when doing the jumper cables. So which makes me think i have a good ground?

 

[Fed]

I simply connected the positive on the battery to the positive on the starter and it cranked right up.

That means the complete negative circuit is fine so the fault lies between the positive battery post and the starter motor positive stud.

Positive lug connection to battery.
Lug connection on battery side of solenoid (not likely as you have disconnected & reconnected this).
Lug connection on starter side of solenoid (not likely as you have disconnected & reconnected this).
Lug connection to starter motor motor stud.
Internal positive cable fault.
It could also be simply a failing battery.

Testing at the above places with a voltmeter while someone turns the key to the start position will tell you where it is.
Each test should only take a couple of seconds.

 

[dormanxc04]

Fed thanks for the help! I will check all of the stuff above mentioned when i get my new solenoid tomorrow. Wont hurt to slap on the new OEM one since i have bought it already. Then ill go from there. I do have some positive and negative battery cable hanging around too i can go ahead and replace since i have it. Ill let yall know when I get back on it.

 

[dormanxc04]

Parts came in today. Didnt get to put the new solenoid on because i got off work late. I will be putting her on tomorrow. Ill give the update tomorrow night

 

[dormanxc04]

Alright guys. I put the new solenoid on and it still is turning very slow like it has a dead battery. What could it be?

 

[Fed]

Test it with a voltmeter when it's under load by having someone turning the key to the start position when you do each point test.
You could test it in less time than it took me to type this.

 

[dormanxc04]

Well i feel stupid. Problem is fixed. Was the positive battery cable. I have the vattery cables and stuff in this sleeve. Well the positive cable had a slit in it. Well overtime time water has corroded and broken the wire almost all the way apart. Lets just say ill be on the water tomorrow. Thanks again guys. New solenoid works good too haha

 

[Fed]

Good onya mate.