1976 Ranger 175a Paint question

[Firefox11]

I replaced the transom already, and installed a new floor and carpet. I am hoping that someone can give some suggestions on good marine grade paint to use to paint it back up. Its one of the first bass fishing boats used in BASS so I would like to keep it original.

You can feel the metal flake as there is not much clear coat left on the boat. Should I sand all of that off and respray new blue paint with metal flake over the old paint, or can the old paint be lightly sanded and a light coat of blue shot on top with clear coat to preserve the original luster??? Better than that, who makes a good marine paint that you can trust! Now that is the question. I want the paint to lay down properly and look good. I will be spraying the boat myself, so I have the equipment to make it look good. Give me some tips and ideas would be very greatly appreciated. I have seen more 176's on this website than anywhere else!

Great page, glad to be here.

Brent.

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: 1976 Ranger 175a Paint question

Welcome to Iboats Firefox...

The thing here is that you have repairs that need to be done before you think about painting..

Now with gel metalflake ... I will warn you it IS dam hard to reproduce and blend.

Your not going to be able to just scuff and clear.

I know you want to keep it OEM..but I doubt that will happen with gel/flake/clear. Unless you want to take it to a PRO (bucks m8).

So your probably going to be looking at Imron. Not as much flake but alot of colors to choose from. You could also look into some other Basecoat clear coat systems.. but in the long run your going to spend alot of time wetsanding and buffing with that.

No matter what your going to use your going to have to remove all the dead paint/clear off there and prime.

Your looking at some Cash no matter what choice you make .

YD.

 

[JAFO1]

Re: 1976 Ranger 175a Paint question

Welcome to Iboats Firefox...

The thing here is that you have repairs that need to be done before you think about painting..

Now with gel metalflake ... I will warn you it IS dam hard to reproduce and blend.

Your not going to be able to just scuff and clear.

I know you want to keep it OEM..but I doubt that will happen with gel/flake/clear. Unless you want to take it to a PRO (bucks m8).

So your probably going to be looking at Imron. Not as much flake but alot of colors to choose from. You could also look into some other Basecoat clear coat systems.. but in the long run your going to spend alot of time wetsanding and buffing with that.

No matter what your going to use your going to have to remove all the dead paint/clear off there and prime.

Your looking at some Cash no matter what choice you make .

YD.

Doc, I was just replying to this post, saying I hope you chime in, and then noticed you had already replied.
Would you mind giving the 'proper' steps for gel coat revival? I'm looking at an old Ranger that has some rough flake, but otherwise is a nice boat. I'll request the information in another post if this is too much of a post hijack.

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: 1976 Ranger 175a Paint question

Doc, I was just replying to this post, saying I hope you chime in, and then noticed you had already replied.
Would you mind giving the 'proper' steps for gel coat revival? I'm looking at an old Ranger that has some rough flake, but otherwise is a nice boat. I'll request the information in another post if this is too much of a post hijack.

To help in all fairness Its better to keep your questions on your own thread .

Its just too different from boat to boat and step for step depending...

YD.

 

[JAFO1]

Re: 1976 Ranger 175a Paint question

To help in all fairness Its better to keep your questions on your own thread .

Its just too different from boat to boat and step for step depending...

YD.

Fair enough. I thought it might be appropriate for his boat too.

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: 1976 Ranger 175a Paint question

Fair enough. I thought it might be appropriate for his boat too.

And it may .. however I only have 2 eyes and Im crossed allready

Two boats on one thread could have problems cross-threading .. thing..

Basically with gel/metal flake with repairs ( or even without reps ) is Very Hard to do.

Niether of you are going to gel/metal flake spot or whole with gel/clear without some serious expence ( gel/metal flake guys are like old school..and $$ ( wish I was one of them pros )).

Imron...

YD.

 

[Firefox11]

Re: 1976 Ranger 175a Paint question

Hello..

Thanks for the welcome. I have painted vehicles before, and have even shot metallic paint before and it looked good. Sold the car for 10 times what I paid for it.. I shot some airplane wheelpants components with Imron paint before, expensive stuff. That is a hundred a gallon plus sixy bux for activator. I wasn't trying to go completely OEM, but I want it to look nice. The paint residue u see peeling was because I got a jacked up paint job from a guy before (Time problems). He didn't prep the surface of the boat before he shot it, and thats what happens to it when it starts peeling. I hate half -azz work!

Ok, let me rephase the question. If I sanded the boat back down to a smooth surface (Definately removing the jacked up paint) the only paint that would closely match it is Imron? The guy that painted my boat had a damn close match of the paint, its just the metal flake wasn't as metallic (Due to old school paint) but it matched close enough, and I found out it was car paint that he used. I would much rather use a marine based paint, cuz I only want to do it ONCE!

I was thinking instead of sanding all the metallic surface off the boat, lightly sand the flaking paint and the surface of the boat leaving most of the metal flake and paint over it with the "closely matching" paint then lightly sand it with maybe 1000 grit paper to pull the metallic through the new paint and clear cote over it 2-3 layers to build up the surface to restore the lustre of the paint job. This would be a perfect winter project!! Ya'll don't think that would work???

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: 1976 Ranger 175a Paint question

Then you should know allready that Prep is everything

I cant really tell ya how its going to turn out without priming..

I know Imron is expensive with reducer and converter..but when your done shooting it your done ( Or should be if your a good painter ).

If your going to do a base coat clear coat I guess it would depend on what brand. Ive only used dupont Chromabase and PPG. I can say that these are not cheap by any means by the time your get your clear

Prep well and prime is all I can suggest here. If you skip the prime then there is no telling how it will turn out.

YD.