1977 16' Baja

fishingdan

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Feb 12, 2005
Messages
1,045
Re: 1977 16' Baja

Solvent based 2-part linear polyurethane marine paints really should not be sprayed by amateurs without access to proper safety equipment. The solvents are nasty and are dangerous to breath when sprayed.<br /><br />The paint manufacturers realized this and have now either formulated specific paint for amateurs or they have created "brushing" additives for their paint. <br /><br />Roll and tip is an easy method of apply paint and getting a good finish. Interlux Perfection, for example, is designed for this approach. You apply the paint with a short nap paint roller in a small area (I like to work in 2' by 2' areas). You then come back with a 3" natural bristle brush and lightly brush the are you just rolled. The roller applies the paint and the brush smoothes out the surface. The brush marks will disappear on their own. Overlap the 2'x 2' areas slightly and they will blend together nicely. You can get a beautiful finish that only a professional painter could tell was applied by via roll and tip. <br /><br />One thing to keep in mind. The results are only as good as the prep work. As Chris1956 stated, light colors hide imperfections and dark colors, while beautiful, will show imperfections. <br /><br />2-part linear polyurethane (LPU) is extremely durable paint and should give you a great finish for 5-7 years. There are 1 part marine paints available that also brush on nicely, but they are not as durable (maybe need repaint in 3 years).<br /><br />System Three makes and sells a water based 2-part LPU that works well too. The down side is that they have a limited color selection and you must apply their clear topcoat for a gloss finish.
 

ddavisr

Seaman
Joined
Sep 6, 2005
Messages
55
Re: 1977 16' Baja

I was reading about Interlux Perfection, can you also use this on the bottom of the hull? They refer to it as a "above the waterline paint". I understand what your saying about white hiding the problem areas but this but really needs color. I don't mind doing the extra work with the prep as far as sanding and primer. Any idea if you can add metal flake to the clear coat ?<br /><br />Thanks again for your info, its really helping me out.
 

CalicoKid

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
May 27, 2002
Messages
1,599
Re: 1977 16' Baja

Bob, I've got a 1988 Johnson 110 with a 13.5 x 20 Raker prop. It does 50 mph most days a little more if I hold my mouth right. The boat is in original condition other than my rewiring it last winter and keeping up with maintenance. It's just a lucky boat to have seen very light use, indoor storage and proper maintenance for the last 17 years. I really like it, it's such a solid no BS design and it handles great as long as it isn't too rough out.<br /><br />Anyway the OMC V4 seems to be a great match for the boat and since yours is quite similar as far as length and general hull design I'd have to assume yours would perform similarly.
 

MSmith3615

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 24, 2005
Messages
209
Re: 1977 16' Baja

ddavisr, I'm painting my whole boat above and below the waterline with Perfection. The Interlux people told me that since I don't keep it in the water it would be fine below the water line. I'm also roll and tip for the first time, the boat is almost sanded, Im real excited about it. You should check out tengals123 project, he rolled and tipped and his boat has a very wet looking finish or glass finish.
 

fishingdan

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Feb 12, 2005
Messages
1,045
Re: 1977 16' Baja

I too have top-side paint on all hull surfaces. I trailer my boats. I was also told that if the boat stays in the water more than a few days, it should have an epoxy based bottom barrier coat paint. <br /><br />I don't know about the flake. Each of the companies has a tech support line. Give them a call or drop an email and they will give you a specific answer. I would think that you could if followed by more clear without flake, but I don't know if the roll and tip approach is compatible with a flake finish.
 

ddavisr

Seaman
Joined
Sep 6, 2005
Messages
55
Re: 1977 16' Baja

Picture of the last boat I owned. It a 1997 Baja 188 Islander with a 350 alpha drive. She would hit about 65 mph. Very nice boat, had a few issues when I got her but Baja took care of all of them. One fix included some fiberglass work that they did. I was invited to there factory in Ohio and got to go thru the assembly plant. They delivered the boat back to my house when it was finished.<br /><br /><br />
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ddavisr

Seaman
Joined
Sep 6, 2005
Messages
55
Re: 1977 16' Baja

Hello,<br />Well so far I removed the top from the bottom, came apart easy. Next move is to remove all the wood and start glassing in new plywood. Hoping to cut along the edge of the boards so I can use them as a pattern. Still have the transom to deal but so far it hasn't been bad. I have done fiberglass work before on corvettes but never a boat. I have some pictures of my progress and any tips or tricks would be great.
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CalicoKid

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
May 27, 2002
Messages
1,599
Re: 1977 16' Baja

Looks like there are no stringers, just a very narrow floor?? If so is that coming out or is it solid? Looks like everything but those side pocket rails and front bulkhead got fiberglassed in real well. Was the foam wet at all? The top half looks pretty good, might not have to mess with that too much, huh?<br /><br />The Islander looks nice, I wish I had the room for one of those!<br /><br />A guy restored a Sunsport 184 a while back, do a SEARCH for the word "maximerc" (his user name) in the project boats forum and you'll get a lot of pictures and info regarding his project. Search for "Sunsport" also.
 

Marc J.

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 16, 2004
Messages
267
Re: 1977 16' Baja

Nice project boat. My lower hull looks just like yours, but rotten down the middle. I have the same battery tray and the same oddly placed board by the bilge area. It gets in the way of my two 6 gal steel tanks. I don't plan to separate the hull on mine, but the 2' wide floor area on mine is now mostly removed. It was partially glassed over plywood with one glassed over stringer running the length of the floor. I'm surprised to see the foam up front. I'll bet there's none under the floor. Good luck with it and keep posting pics.
 

CalicoKid

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
May 27, 2002
Messages
1,599
Re: 1977 16' Baja

Thanks for posting, keep 'em coming!<br /><br />Are the kids helping any?
 

AMD Rules

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Sep 23, 2004
Messages
1,707
Re: 1977 16' Baja

Lots of friends & free beer. You'll get that boat flipped...no problemo.
 

74Baja

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jul 30, 2004
Messages
87
Re: 1977 16' Baja

ddavisr, glad i ran into you! (sorry if i'm hi-jacking)<br />I have a 1974 Baja 16' that looks very similar to yours. I am currently replaceing the transom. its tough work. I am doing it differently. i am not removing the top half of the boat but just cutting the fiberglas off on the inside of the transom and chipping the wood out. How did you get your transom out? Chipping is very slow. as i was getting to the bottem of the transom under the floor i noticed that there is one stringer under the floor. my floor was pretty bad so i cut it back about a foot. i looked at my stringer and poked it with a screw driver and i am debating wether it is bad as well. I would love to hear any more info about your experiance and wouldn't mind sharing mine if you need it. <br />ps- im guessing that you have a similar boat also 73baja<br />-Jack
 

ddavisr

Seaman
Joined
Sep 6, 2005
Messages
55
Re: 1977 16' Baja

Well as far as removing the transom I would split the boat in two. You will have a hard time getting the new transom installed with the top on. Actually I don't see how you could do it and get a tight bond. <br /><br />I used different wedges and slowly drove them between the fiberglass and transom. It was made up of two pieces of 3/4 plywood. The first piece came out perfect but the one resined to the hull was a little more work. Alot of grinding is what got it out. Once it was removed I cleaned up the fiberglass with the grinder.<br />1. Clean up the entire area that would need to be reglassed.<br />2. I used the one piece of old transom as a pattern and cut out two pieces of plywood.<br />3. Finerglass them together using polyester resin and ss screws.<br />4. Cut a piece of Bi-ax cloth the same shape as the transom.<br />5. Added more resin to the hull, laid the piece of bi-ax, more resin, and then clamped the transom in place.<br />6. Once all that was dry I used a bondo filler to fill in any gaps and give transition of hull to transom a bit of a radius. <br />7. Two more layers of bi-ax with alot of resin brushing and rolling it all to get it smooth.<br /><br />For the first transom I ever did I think it cam eout good. I also cut the floor back about a foot which exposed the the small stringer. It was in good shape so I just coated the ends with resin. I plan on cutting a piece of plywood about 36 inches to give the area a flat spot for a 18 gallon fuel tank and battery tray. This will also help brace the transom. Not crazy about taking 6 gallon takes in and out of the boat all the time. Im hoping to pst some more pictures this weekend to show what Im talking about. <br /><br />any question please ask away.
 

74Baja

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jul 30, 2004
Messages
87
Re: 1977 16' Baja

hmm... Im not too crazy about the idea of taking the top off of the boat but if it has to be done maybe I'll try it. How did you get the top off? Thanks.
 

ddavisr

Seaman
Joined
Sep 6, 2005
Messages
55
Re: 1977 16' Baja

Actually it was easy. Remove the rub rail, take a drill and drill all the rivets. This goes faster then you would think. Remove the motor and the angle trim they have on the transom. Go around the boat and loosen the top at the seems. The use a some kind of chaulk but it so old it falls apart. Once you have it loose get about 4 or 5 guys to help remove it. We started at the nose and work are way back. She popped right off with no problem. Removing the old transom will be alot easier! Make sure you measure the thickness of the old transom, you don't want to go thicker or putting the top back on will be a problem.<br /><br />Would love to see some pictures! Shareaproject.com is a free web site to host your pictures. There are also sseveral projects showing transom being replace so you might want to check it out.
 

74Baja

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jul 30, 2004
Messages
87
Re: 1977 16' Baja

hey, I was trying to get the top off of the boat and I took the rubrail off and unscrewed all of the screws. but it seems like it is some how adheared to the boat. I tryed going around the edge with a putty knife and that didnt really work. how do you suggest to seperate the halves at the seam?<br />Thanks<br />Jack
 

AMD Rules

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Sep 23, 2004
Messages
1,707
Re: 1977 16' Baja

Speaking of the other project site, have a peek here 1991 searay 160. This shows how one member was able to pursuade his top to pop. You can see that they sometimes use quite a bit of adhesive sealant to join the hull.
 
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