1979 Evinrude 85HP v4 crossflow tune up "how"?

[04xr6t]

Hi
I am at my wits end as to "what am i doing wrong"
I need help!
i have been doing up a old boat i bought, with a blown 79 85HP Evinrude
I finaly have it running (but not reliable)
I have adjusted all cables to spec, but the lever will not return to idle, unless i incorrectly adjust the throttle cable (and it wont recieve full throttle)
Can someone please help me with step by step procedure (refer my attachement)

 

[flyingscott]

Get a Factory manual you have a lot going on there it will take you through all your adjustments.. It looks like you need a roller for the carb they are usually bigger. Also there is no spec for the cables you put them where they work my 70 has the throttle cable tightened all the way

 

[oldboat1]

Remove the cables at the motor, and make any necessary motor adjustments. Fit the cables to the motor, not the other way around.

[can make cable adjustments at the motor or the cable box end]

 

[emdsapmgr]

The idle rpm's for the engine are determined by the idle timing as adjusted on the spark advance lever. It, in turn, moves the stator timing. There is nothing to set on the carbs. The guys are correct, you really need a factory manual, as found on the website of the original service manual publisher, Outboardbooks.com. Or you can call Ken Cook co. direct in Milwaukee. To set the idle, you need to have the boat floating normally in the lake. Start the engine and shift into forward. Once it's idling in forward gear, set the idle rpm's to 650-700 rpm's. You can't set it on the trailer in the back yard. You will find it will idle about 900 or so in neutral when in the lake, and about 1200-1250 when it's in neutral sitting on the trailer in the back yard. I'd set your idle when the throttle cable is disconnected. Once you have the idle set, then adjust the throttle cable to meet the spark advance cable stud (by turning the cable thumbwheel.)

 

[flyingscott]

You cannot make adjustments on those cables at the box only the motor side has an adjustment nut

 

[oldboat1]

If after adjustments the range or throw is too short and you have no further adjustment available, you can sometimes move the cable to a lower hole in the shiftbox lever. You may need to explore that if a cable at the motor is adjusted all the way (unlikely with the proper length cables and installation). Final cable adjustment at the motor should normally be somewhere in the middle of the adjustment range.

 

[flyingscott]

You need to get the link and sync done and get all your motor adjustments done with the manual. There are no adjustments on the box for that cable. You probably have the white box black handle only one place for the cables to go and the trunion is staked in place no adjustments. So no need to go into the box The cables get set where they work you do NOT have to worry about having them in the middle of the adjustments. Once they are set you do not have to look at them again stretch is almost nonexistent so you wont be adjusting them for years to come. Don't get caught up with where you think they should go just put them where they work. It will be almost impossible to have the cable adjustment nut in the middle of the cables because the bracket is offset don't chase problems you don't have the only reason to go into the box is broken parts. THE ABSOLUTE LAST THING YOU WILL ADJUST ARE THE CABLES.

 

[oldboat1]

yup. motor first, then the cables.

 

[04xr6t]

Thanks for the quick replies guys
I have a seloc manual, but it doesnt show in which order
Can someone point me in what order is the best way to start?
then i can follow the manual
Thanks in advance

 

[oldboat1]

first step after removing cables is to see how the motor is running, using the linkage at the motor for throttle or shifting. In the lake is good. It's a big l.u., so might end up trying it with muffs. It may be running fine, or at least better than you had thought.

 

[flyingscott]

OK lets start with your picture

the no idea what this line is for is when the carbs should start opening in relation to the cam.
The fast idle and base idle mark don't exist forget about those
The idle adjustment mark that you labeled that's not what that is
Now in your manual there is a section designated for the synchronization of the throttle and timing.read that and go from there.
Do not start your motor without doing that first. Your carb roller and the cam are way off get that straightened out first all part of the link and sync.
You may also need a timing light. A factory manual would be better but you can work with it. You also need to find a good pic of the side of the motor to make sure it is complete. Is this a rebuilt motor if not do a compression test.

 

[04xr6t]

Ok
I will go right back to basics
As i have said in my previose posts, i am a motor mechanic, this is nothing like a car ha ha.

I will read my Seloc manual again, but its very hard to follow, from where i should start
eg; with a car back off all throttle cables, wind base idle screw all the way out then back in till it just touches so on so on

The hard part is what do i set up first

 

[flyingscott]

All your adjustments will be made with no cables on get those out of the way right away. Then push the throttle and timing as far back as they will go. You will need to find which line on the cam the carb roller is supposed to hit. Follow the linc and sync directions. Also find joe reeves timing method you will need to do that also is on this forum just search for it.

 

[emdsapmgr]

You'll have a tough time sync'ing the carbs/timing without a factory manual. Your block may be a replacement. In 1979 the blocks were painted the same color as the outside of the engine. Johnson- white, Evinrude- dark blue. Yours appears black. When at dead idle, the roller should not touch the throttle cam. You should be able to slide a pc of copy paper between the two at idle. Also, make sure your roller has a layer of clear plastic over it. Hard to see in the picture if yours still has that plastic layer or not. If it's missing, you have problems with the sync and link-replace the roller..

 

[04xr6t]

No Title

Hi Guys
Ok all settings have been made to spec
Base Idle 4deg
WOT 24 deg (as per Joe Reeves) factory spec is 28deg
Had to introduce a spring to hold lever back (as was not sitting home for timing screw)
Ran with muffs, ran nice, idle was slightly high so deadjusted to factory specs)
Reved great
Now for the down side!
Put in water.and engine wanted to stall
increased idle in water (kept stalling)
increased idle to 2000-2500 rpm,
didnt not stall any more (of course)
Revs started to hunt from 1100-3500 rpm (scrating head)
Brought back home, put muffs on it screamed its head off, decreased revs again (ran perfect)
Cut out a big barrell to submurge unit into
Same as before on the water (keeps stalling)

Have just pulled carbies down again (clean as a whistle) cleaned with carby clean and compressed air
float level was still correct to manual

Please guys what the hell is going on?

@ emdsapmgr, funning you should talk about the plastic layer on the roller, Yes mine has it, BUT its running off the metal (refer attachement), also due to me rebuilding the engine, i painted everything black lol

Thanks again guys for spending time with me

 

[04xr6t]

Ok
I have a question which i dont think im going to like
I just removed all the Spark Plugs, and all were oil wet
I have checked i have the correct type (yes), checked if they were gapped correctly (yes)

This is what im confussed with, all compressions are 125-130 psi

Any ideas, as this may be my issue,plugs fouling, causing irratic idle

 

[emdsapmgr]

Thanks for the updates on what you are seeing. 1. You will want to replace that roller. The sync and link is off and that basically affect the idle the most. I see that the 308199 roller has been discontinued. This dealer has 8 new ones still in stock. Contact them to purchase one:

TED'S BOATARAMA, INC.

102 31ST AVE

ROCK ISLAND

IL

61201

309-788-1175

tedsboatarama@gmail.com

0308199

2. Those engines run overfueled at idle. Not surprised you see wet plugs. Normal. 3. The compression on that powerhead when new would have been in the 125 range, so you are good to go with what you have. 4. Another idle problem could be a restriction in the idle passages inside the carbs themselves. These are difficult to clean and if not clean, it just won't idle well. You need to take the jets out, clean the passages with a GUMOUT type aerosol product. Nothing else will dissolve dried fuel accumulation in those small idle passages.

 

[04xr6t]

No Title

Hi emdsapmgr
I used a Carby Cleaner "CRC Carby cleaner" we use it in the automotive trade for rebuilding Carbies.
with the roller, I can not see for the life of me how i can get the cam roller, to run on the plastic?
The plastic shield is still on there (refer pic)

Thank god its not a ring problem that the plugs are fouled

 

[flyingscott]

It looks like someone modified one to fit on that. That will have to come off and the new one will have an o ring that fits in that groove to hold the roller on.

 

[04xr6t]

can anyone help with a picture of this linkage set up, just so i can see what im missing or have installed incorrectly?