1979 Skeeter 115hp Evinrude Ignition problems. Help?

[jmillsUT28]

Hi guys, I am new to the boat scene and this forum. I bought a 1979 Skeeter 15" bass boat with a 115hp Evinrude. It takes a while for it to start. I prime the engine and use the choke yet the engine will just keep turning over but no fire. After about 20 minute it starts up. Then when I find the location I want to fish at and try to turn the motor off it will NOT turn off! So I am sitting at my fishing hole with my engine running! haha

So I thought it could be the switch not sending the coil the signal to stop. I bought a switch and installed it. The motor turned over once but now it will not turn over. I checked the power at terminal B on the switch and I had no power. So I guess I blew a fuse somewhere.

First question, do you think my problem with it starting and not stopping is the ignition switch problem?

Sorry for the long thread. Let me know if you need more information. Thanks!!

 

[bktheking]

Re: 1979 Skeeter 115hp Evinrude Ignition problems. Help?

Sounds like a wiring issue more that a switch, but it could be the switch. Switch might be bad causing a no spark condition which is directly related to it not shutting off as well. Check out all wiring try again, replace the fuse of course.

The stop wire is black/yellow, runs back to the powerpacks- not the coils.

 

[jmillsUT28]

Re: 1979 Skeeter 115hp Evinrude Ignition problems. Help?

The switch that I installed was a Sierra MP41080S. It has the following terminals.

M - Magneto Circuit
C - Choke
I - Ignition Circuit (I did not connect this to anything)
S - Solenoid
A - Accessory
M - Ground
B - Battery

Like I said I saw on this site that the I is for anything that I wanted to have 12v power so I kept that empty.

 

[jmillsUT28]

Re: 1979 Skeeter 115hp Evinrude Ignition problems. Help?

Yes sorry I meant the powerpacks.

 

[bktheking]

Re: 1979 Skeeter 115hp Evinrude Ignition problems. Help?

Yes, just make sure the wires are going to the proper terminals:

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/ignitionSwitch.html

 

[jmillsUT28]

Re: 1979 Skeeter 115hp Evinrude Ignition problems. Help?

Oh nice! Thanks I will read on this tomorrow and check to make sure I have it wired right. I am thinking I much have something crossed for the fuse to blow.

 

[bktheking]

Re: 1979 Skeeter 115hp Evinrude Ignition problems. Help?

Sounds like it, that diagram is an awesome reference.

 

[jmillsUT28]

Re: 1979 Skeeter 115hp Evinrude Ignition problems. Help?

Ok so I am not getting any power to the switch. I traced the wire all the way to the solenoid where it gets it's power from. That wire does have power. So somewhere between the red connector that connects the ignition switch wires to the engine wire harness that is located under the motor cover there is a bad wire I guess. I'm going to take the black tap off and see what I can find...

 

[bktheking]

Re: 1979 Skeeter 115hp Evinrude Ignition problems. Help?

The switch gets it's power from a wire off the battery, usually fused. The solenoid is mearly a big switch to conduct power to the starter. The one wire going to the solenoid (small one) is live when the ignition switch is put the the start position, that is what engages the solenoid to pass power to the starter. Look for a black fuse holder on a small wire fed from the battery.

 

[jmillsUT28]

Re: 1979 Skeeter 115hp Evinrude Ignition problems. Help?

Ok I got the switch to work again but I still have the same problem that I had before which I thought was the switch. While the motor is running and I turn the ignition switch off it will still keep running. It will not shut off unless i flood the engine. Then it will shut off. Any ideas what might be this problem? Thanks again for your help!

 

[bktheking]

Re: 1979 Skeeter 115hp Evinrude Ignition problems. Help?

First confirm your wiring at the switch, there are 2 M's, one normal and one raised, the raised one goes to the kill wire, the normal M goes to ground.

OK so you ruled out the switch. Get your continuity tester out- remove the black/yellow stripe wire from the switch and disconnect the plug from each powerpack, find the black/yellow stripe wire. Put your one lead on the wire in the switch and the other on the powerpack plug, if it beeps at you the wire is good. You will need to do this twice, the black/yellow stripe wire splits in 2 at the engine, 2 powerpacks to kill via ground. If one wire is bad it will still run on 2 cylinders thus not shutting off. If the wire going to the pack(s) is good and the switch is new it can only be one other issue, the ground at the switch. DO THIS ON THE PROPER M TERMINAL, the black wire, ground. Take the ground off and take a test light and put in on the positive terminal of the battery. Touch it to the ground wire you took off of the switch, if it doesn't light , the ground is bad.

Make sense?