1980 Mercury 40 hp Key switch?

[Lone Duck]

Re: 1980 Mercury 40 hp Key switch?

The seperate black wire to the orange on the switchbox should be the tilt kill switch not the ground for the harness View attachment 180418 . The ground from the harness should be hookd to one of the switchbox hold down screws. View attachment 180417. The flywheel shows wear indicating rubbing against the flywheel that would blow the switchbox View attachment 180416 Bad bearing more than likely. Question Are any of the hold down screws that secure the stator striped? The stator must be securely held in place or as I described by your picture it is rubbing the flywheel and probably killing the switchboxes. It needs to be corrected or it will continue to blow more switchboxes. All you would have to do is change the upper end capand or bearing. That is fairly cheap on ebay. Note the upper bearing will come out with the upper end cap. I changed my upper bearing which also may be the cause of the rubbing marks on the flywheel. The seal will have to be redone as well JMO I hate to be the barrer of bad news but I,m 99% sure scraped one a week ago. EDIT I have to put the breaks on here there is obviously internal damage that lead to the condition that caused this situation of the flywheel rubbing the startor see next post

Yes ! It looks like the crankshaft is off centre to the seal or is that the angle of the camera.

 

[hi salenity]

Re: 1980 Mercury 40 hp Key switch?

Ill check in the morning to see if its rubbing but I did clean up the magnets with a thinner rag

 

[Maxz695]

Re: 1980 Mercury 40 hp Key switch?

There is one more thing I thought about this morning and still am not sure about. The flywheel hub. My flywheel hub looked similar except Mine had a chrome ring that had a small split on an angle which I thought was the point for the trigger signal. I have not seen any hub yet without this ring and was just thinking that maybe the ring somehow came undone and got caught between the flywheel and the startor which would also short out the switchbox. I,m going to do some looking around on ebay to see if I can locate a hub that looks like yours. This is just an assumption at this point. Check for the shaft play but do not dismantle anything until we can find a reason for the wear on the flywheel magnets. Thanks OK here is a picture of a 50 same thing notice the hub has a chrome ring. View attachment 180446 Heres yours View attachment 180447 OK I solved that here is your type of hub so the hub theory is out the window View attachment 180448 The only difference is where the outter rings line up as in pic 3 yours seem to be off from the possition of the one I took off ebay. It should still send some kind or signal through the trigger though I would think. Suggestion: Put a light coat of primer (Spray can) On the magnets let it dry and reinstall it. Disconnect the swtchbox from the stator wire terminal, and turn the engine over several times without the plugs in to lessen the drag. Make the fltwheel snug but not super tight as not to have to use the puller again to get it off. Your going to be testing to see if there are any new rub marks in the fresh Dried paint. Before removing put the plugs back in and turn several times to put pressure on the crank, and if there is movement the compression stroke will through it out of round and mar the magnet surface. Also you may choose to use the other stator with the repaired wires for this test. Those wear marks are made by the stator not by cleaning as they are uniform to the stator end points. Unless the stator was loose or the flywheel was loose at one time. I,m thinking damaged bearing.

 

[Laddies]

Re: 1980 Mercury 40 hp Key switch?

42 posts and no help, here's the ign test from CDI it's always worked for us. Hope it helps.

 

[Maxz695]

Re: 1980 Mercury 40 hp Key switch?

Thanks for the testing proceedures there Laddies. He will need that later on after he figures out the machanical issues that caused the problem which elecrical testing proceedures wil not fix. EDIT He may be able to diagnose the faulty unit and replace it only to find it shorted out again. His problem may lie in machanical issues causing the failure. I wanna see you help him redo the bearing and any other affected parts in a few posts.

 

[Lone Duck]

Re: 1980 Mercury 40 hp Key switch?

Personal differences do not help the man in trouble . I have noticed you two at it more than once Cool it guys ! Although your differences make interesting reading on a snowed in winter day.

 

[hi salenity]

Re: 1980 Mercury 40 hp Key switch?

I looked at the old stater I took off and I can't tell that it's ever rubbed ill get a chance to look at it in more depth after lunch

 

[Maxz695]

Re: 1980 Mercury 40 hp Key switch?

Due to a complaint that it took 40 + posts and a personal opinion that no help was given. Then seeing how the question was answered as to the key switch in which help was given and asscertained not to be the issue when unplugging the harness. A new thread stating electrical and possible machanical issues should be started by you pertining to the new issues at hand. I will no longer respond to this thread as some see it as non related to the original question. Please feel free to PM me if you need my assistance or do as advised, and start a fresh thread related to the subject matter at hand. You should get better results, and replies in doing this as well from other members not seeing the details involved in your present situation non related to a key switch. GL

 

[Maxz695]

Re: 1980 Mercury 40 hp Key switch?

View attachment 180503View attachment 180504Unable to post pics in PM

 

[hi salenity]

Re: 1980 Mercury 40 hp Key switch?

There is one more thing I thought about this morning and still am not sure about. The flywheel hub. My flywheel hub looked similar except Mine had a chrome ring that had a small split on an angle which I thought was the point for the trigger signal. I have not seen any hub yet without this ring and was just thinking that maybe the ring somehow came undone and got caught between the flywheel and the startor which would also short out the switchbox. I,m going to do some looking around on ebay to see if I can locate a hub that looks like yours. This is just an assumption at this point. Check for the shaft play but do not dismantle anything until we can find a reason for the wear on the flywheel magnets. Thanks OK here is a picture of a 50 same thing notice the hub has a chrome ring. View attachment 180446 Heres yours View attachment 180447 OK I solved that here is your type of hub so the hub theory is out the window View attachment 180448 The only difference is where the outter rings line up as in pic 3 yours seem to be off from the possition of the one I took off ebay. It should still send some kind or signal through the trigger though I would think. Suggestion: Put a light coat of primer (Spray can) On the magnets let it dry and reinstall it. Disconnect the swtchbox from the stator wire terminal, and turn the engine over several times without the plugs in to lessen the drag. Make the fltwheel snug but not super tight as not to have to use the puller again to get it off. Your going to be testing to see if there are any new rub marks in the fresh Dried paint. Before removing put the plugs back in and turn several times to put pressure on the crank, and if there is movement the compression stroke will through it out of round and mar the magnet surface. Also you may choose to use the other stator with the repaired wires for this test. Those wear marks are made by the stator not by cleaning as they are uniform to the stator end points. Unless the stator was loose or the flywheel was loose at one time. I,m thinking damaged bearing.

First off I don't have a DVA adaptor so I know I'm going to be a little limited on what I can test but I am not 100% clear on how to perform these tests. Do I unhook the wires from the switchbox or just test them at the conection terminals?

Like the Trigger if I leave it hooked up and test the Ohms between the Brown and White (trigger wires) I get an ohm reading of .684k and unhooked I get a reading of .810k (my meeter is autoranging)

 

[hi salenity]

Re: 1980 Mercury 40 hp Key switch?

BTW I painted the inside of the Flywheel and reinstalled it spun it over and checked and it's not rubbing.

 

[Lone Duck]

Re: 1980 Mercury 40 hp Key switch?

Sorry friend, I am stumped, that is as far as I can go. Did you take that black wire off the orange wire terminal and hook it to ground?? I woke up at 2am this morning thinking of that.

 

[hi salenity]

Re: 1980 Mercury 40 hp Key switch?

Sorry friend, I am stumped, that is as far as I can go. Did you take that black wire off the orange wire terminal and hook it to ground?? I woke up at 2am this morning thinking of that.

Yes, I tried that.

 

[hi salenity]

Re: 1980 Mercury 40 hp Key switch?

Yes, I tried that.

Thanks and get some sleep!

 

[Laddies]

Re: 1980 Mercury 40 hp Key switch?

Did you do the test from CDI yet, It's never failed us.

 

[Laddies]

Re: 1980 Mercury 40 hp Key switch?

First here's a wiring diagram check the wiring hook ups to make sure they are all hooked up right.

 

[hi salenity]

Re: 1980 Mercury 40 hp Key switch?

Did you do the test from CDI yet, It's never failed us.

Can you give me good instructions on how to do the tests? Do I leave the wires hooked up or unhook all the wires? My switch box is #332-4911 & my Stator #398-5255 and it's a 1980 so I'm not sure if I need to follow A or B numbers.

If I follow B it tells me to go from blue to ground so do I just go from the blue terminal that connects the stator to the switch box or do I disconnect the blue wire and then test?
Wen it says brown to white those must be the trigger wires do they stay connected ? if I leave them connected I get an Ohm reading of .684k and if I unhook the wires and just check the stator I get a reading of .810k

The wiring diagram you posted is not 100% correct with my wiring
mine has no alternator and has the 4 wire stator. it also has a Salmon/Orange wire off the switch box that goes to the Black/Yellow kill wire.

 

[hi salenity]

Re: 1980 Mercury 40 hp Key switch?

By the way I don't have a DVA adapter.

 

[Laddies]

Re: 1980 Mercury 40 hp Key switch?

Your engine is a full ring stator so B is correct. you test with a DVA with the wires hooked up as you are testing for voltage but disconnected for OHMs as you are testing resistance. As you can see the OHM test s not a positive test, we only use the voltage test as the Ohm test is hard to interprete and leaves a lot of room for error. Sorry about the wrong wiring diagram this look more like yours, I should have went by the wire colors not the year.

 

[Lone Duck]

Re: 1980 Mercury 40 hp Key switch?

Your engine is a full ring stator so B is correct. you test with a DVA with the wires hooked up as you are testing for voltage but disconnected for OHMs as you are testing resistance. As you can see the OHM test s not a positive test, we only use the voltage test as the Ohm test is hard to interprete and leaves a lot of room for error. Sorry about the wrong wiring diagram this look more like yours, I should have went by the wire colors not the year.

AHHHA! I knew that black wire did not go on the orange wire, It goes from the coil ground to the SB ground. That is one thing that is wrong. Thank you Laddies.