1980 mercury 70 no tattle tale

ajgraz

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Are you sure you put the key back in when you replaced the impeller?

Did you lube inside the impeller housing when you reassembled?

What brand of impeller did you use?

Another line of thought: is there an inordinate amount of water coming out anywhere else?
 

YN2(SS)

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Yes, the key was installed but no I did not lube the impeller..
It was likely a Sierra impeller..
Water does leak around the muff, but not more than Ive seen in the past on other motors. I have water coming out of the exhaust port at the top of the midsection.. also, if I place it in gear and get it just above idle, maybe by 400 rpm, I start getting flow out of the tattle tale.. at first it is very warm and then cools down quickly. It is not hot enought that I cant put my hand in the stream and the exhust cover, even at the top, remains cool.. I'm wondering if a rebuild of the water pump housing is in order?
 

YN2(SS)

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The above pic.. I have steady water coming out of the brass nipple that feeds the water pressure gauge. This is about 2" below the outlet for the hose at the top that goes to the tattle tale.. so, all but about the top 2" of the water jacket is getting cooled.. if I come off of idle, the water flows out of the tattle tale. By this, I assume I have a performance issue. I assume a leak is happening somewhere. I'm goin to drop the lower unit next weekend and go through the pump.
 

YN2(SS)

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Today, I put the outboard in a plastic trash can. Filled it with water to where I think it will be in the lake and started it. I started it and water was coming out of the water pressure hose outlet (brass nipple). Then, by raising the warming lever a little bit, the water started coming out of the tattle tale.. very warm at first, then it cooled down. Being off the muffs and submerged in water helped a bit.. it's pretty clear, to me anyway, I've got a leak somewhere. I'll pull the lower unit first.
 

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ajgraz

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Hard to tell from still (and tiny!) photos, but that looks like a heckuva lot of water coming out from the exhaust port area.
 

YN2(SS)

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Hard to tell from still (and tiny!) photos, but that looks like a heckuva lot of water coming out from the exhaust port area.

I'm kinda wondering that myself.. If the pump is pumping, but it's not going into the piwerhead, that could be the problem.. there is a lot of water coming out there.
 

YN2(SS)

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Following the KISS principle. I found it! I pulled the lower unit, and although I have some concerns about how the top of the exhaust shroud and watertube are mating with the powerhead, it felt correct when I removed it. I disassembled the water pump, and found that the impeller was missing pieces off of three blades. I found one piece but am missing up to 3 other small pea size chunks of rubber. Also it appears the seal on the top of the pump maybe worn and I have some significant wear around the driveshaft. Maybe a speedy sleeve is in order? I'm going for a full rebuild of the water pump to get the best performance.
 

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ajgraz

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Take the plastic water intake grates off the sides of the leg, you may get lucky and find your rubber chunks in there. If they are NOT there, they're likely under the rear water jacket cover, not worth going after unless you planned to have that cover off anyway. Which you might once you get full water pressure and find that it probably leaks around the spark plug holes. :embarassed:

I'd go ahead and replace the entire water pump: housing, plates, gaskets and all (IIRC there is a kit). Housing is probably all scored up inside anyway, in addition to missing any seals. Use some Vaseline or somesuch to lube the impeller when you re-install, makes it much easier to insert (while twisting!) into the housing without breaking off fins--which does happen.

Use a light hand when installing the pump housing nuts...crank down on those too hard and your impeller WILL get bound up and separate from its center hub.

And never, ever, even for a millisecond, crank the motor without muffs and water or submerged in a barrel...that tiny, undersized little water pump design they put on there will fry a dry impeller before you can blink.

I'd also advise pre-buying a few spare impellers. Despite all precautions, these motors' pumps eat impellers--particularly those of today's "quality"--like candy.

BTW, was there a slinger (like a fat rubber square-profiled o-ring) around the driveshaft just above the pump housing?

EDIT: I feel ya on the mating of the exhaust tube and water tube...terrible design. Just remember: if you can bolt the LU back on without crunching anything, those tubes are in the right place.
 
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YN2(SS)

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Take the plastic water intake grates off the sides of the leg, you may get lucky and find your rubber chunks in there. If they are NOT there, they're likely under the rear water jacket cover, not worth going after unless you planned to have that cover off anyway. Which you might once you get full water pressure and find that it probably leaks around the spark plug holes. :embarassed:

I'd go ahead and replace the entire water pump: housing, plates, gaskets and all (IIRC there is a kit). Housing is probably all scored up inside anyway, in addition to missing any seals. Use some Vaseline or somesuch to lube the impeller when you re-install, makes it much easier to insert (while twisting!) into the housing without breaking off fins--which does happen.

Use a light hand when installing the pump housing nuts...crank down on those too hard and your impeller WILL get bound up and separate from its center hub.

And never, ever, even for a millisecond, crank the motor without muffs and water or submerged in a barrel...that tiny, undersized little water pump design they put on there will fry a dry impeller before you can blink.

I'd also advise pre-buying a few spare impellers. Despite all precautions, these motors' pumps eat impellers--particularly those of today's "quality"--like candy.

BTW, was there a slinger (like a fat rubber square-profiled o-ring) around the driveshaft just above the pump housing?

EDIT: I feel ya on the mating of the exhaust tube and water tube...terrible design. Just remember: if you can bolt the LU back on without crunching anything, those tubes are in the right place.

All good advise, and thanks for the input. As this motor has been in the process of being brought back to life, it hasnt been on a lake, until last summer, after it came back from the 2nd mechanic. It had ignition issues and the first guy (after having it 7 weeks) couldn't get it resolved. The 2nd, a shop, had it for 5 weeks and got it running good, but he noticed the water flow at idle was poor. Since it had a new impeller in it last spring, I'm assuming the 1st mechanic made the mistake of running it dry.. he used to be really good, now drugs have taken over and he's not so good.
I ordered a whole new pump kit, and did remove the water jacket cover. At this moment I have found 2 of the 4 pieces of missing rubber and used compressed air to blow as much as I could both directions. I'll run water through it before I put the powerhead back on the midsection.
With the water pump out, I saw that water had gotten into the lower unit oil, and the condition of the driveshaft where it meets the seals on the pump is rusted/pitted/scored. I think I would like to pursue a Speedi Sleeve, but I need to find one that fits. Also, a plasma coating seems like a good option. Anyone have any good sources for either methods for marine applications?
 

YN2(SS)

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Well.. good news and hopefully more to come.. I completed a rebuild of my lower unit.. In the end, I wonder if it would have been better just buying a rebuild. I had to track down 3 special tools. 1 I made from a socket to remove the shift shaft bushing, and I had to buy a driveshaft adapter and a prop ring wrench.. both of which I had to buy several times to finally get the right tool. I replaced all seals on the prop shaft assy, drive shaft assy, shift shaft assy, and water pump.. I likely purchased over 30 parts, and found out through the process that my case and drive shaft and water pump were from another motor, and the prop shaft assy were from this motor. My shift cam and shift pin were no longer usable, and I had my driveshaft machined at a local shop, using a Belzona (1311?) epoxy repair.. the machine shop owner swears by it to rebuild shafts that are pitted, marred and worn. The driveshaft bearing and race had to be replaced and that was $109 alone through a local bearing place ($155 through marine sources). The impeller had been damaged and was the likely culprit of the poor tattle-tale performance.. I ran the motor today, with a strong tattle tale just above idle, but weak or nonexistant stream at idle. And it shifts WAY better than it has since I've used it!! Time to get it on the lake!
 
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