1985 Mercruiser 260 Thunderbolt IV, No Spark

alldodge

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Ok, I have all new secondary ignition, coil, dist. wires, pickup, etc. went through flow chart I found here: http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fetch?id=6971734.

I'm at the bottom...Replace Ignition Module. Is there another test or am I done?

Please elaborate; following the troubleshooting chart, did it all pass, or was their and issue? Just to confirm, you did this test with a volt meter and not a test light?
fetch
 

72GT160

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Yes, I use volt meter. No spark, 12v, 12v, no spark, no spark.
 

72GT160

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And I disconnected white/green and grey from coil to eliminate that issue.
 

alldodge

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According to the chart then the next thing is to replace the Ignition Module, was that done?
 

72GT160

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No, I guess that was my original question, no other possibilities?
 

alldodge

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No, I guess that was my original question, no other possibilities?

Sorry was so obvious I missed your question, my bad. no it's the module if everything thing else checks out according to the chart
 

FuelishBehavior

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I had the same problem, spend the money on the direct replacement Delco Voyager EST ignition system. The Tbolt IV ignition module is stupid expensive. The wiring is a direct hook up to the existing Mercruiser ignition. All you have to do is mount the new coil. I just mounted mine on the intake manifold. It's a great system, I picked up 2 mph, and the whole system costs about as much as the ignition module. Replacement parts are easier to find as well.
 

72GT160

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Nauti- Thanks for the imput, Ill look into it.

I just got off phone with my dealer, who has been a great wealth of info along with this site and between the 2 I hope to figure this thing out.

Here is my configuration and possibly another problem. I have a 1974 CC 5.7 350 in this 1985 260 DA I have. The CC specs claim it's a high output 350hp 350ci. Corvette motor of its day. I highly doubt it has 350hp, but I cant find info about cam. Ignition module is from 1985 which originally had a 305 in it. So, with that being said is a replacement of what I have going to work properly considering its a different motor and cam???
 

FuelishBehavior

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Are you saying you have an engine from a car in your boat? I wouldn't recommend using an engine from a car as a replacement. As for the ignition modules on the Delco Voyager EST's, they have them for small blocks and big blocks. The modules control the spark advance in lieu of weights, springs, and/or vacuum. I believe mine has a total advance of about 24 degrees plus the amount of initial mechanical advance you set off idle. It's a nice little system that has worked perfectly since I bought it. To answer your question though, I would say yes, the ignition modules would work with any small block/big block no matter the cam. All it does is controls the spark advance and has a maximum of about 24 degrees.
 

72GT160

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No, not car engine. From Chris Craft. Looked up specs and data says along the lines of it being compared to a Corvette performance wise.

I'll take a look at what you recommend. Seems like the way to go. Thanks.
 

72GT160

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After doing search on the Delco it seems there as plenty of timing issues associated with these units. Any opinions here before I make post about reviews of that product?
Is there other brands to look at?
 

alldodge

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If you dig into the timing issues I believe you will find that most all are caused by the installer. You can find others such as Pertronix which have had way more problems then Delco but hey, it's your money and your boat
 

Bondo

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If you dig into the timing issues I believe you will find that most all are caused by the installer.

Ayuh,..... Another vote for the Delco system,.....
 

FuelishBehavior

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One thing on the timing, it will tell you to put the shunt wire on and unplug this and that. I did that and my timing seemed retarded too much. I drove, setup and maintained my own race cars so I installed the distributor and ignition system per the book, however, I used my dial back timing light to make sure I had the full 24 degrees of timing in at a certain rpm, say 2600 by adjusting the distributor while the engine was revved at that particular rpm. So with the mechanical timing off idle which was set at about 10 deg. btdc, plus the 24 deg. advance by the module, I had a full 34 degrees by the rpm I wanted. Works great....but you have to have a dial back timing light. I wouldn't use anything otherwise. However, either way you do it works. I just like to know my exact timing at my mid range and max rpms. I try to dial in as much advance as my engine will take on 87 octane without detonating or hard starting.
 
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