1986 bayliner capri aq131a raw water issue, vent tube issue, and outdirve issue

[Stearns250]

The outdrive quit on me completely this last weekend, no voltage coming from the relays so new relays will be installed next weekend, I had a Vacuum leak at the intake manifold now that I figured that out boat runs at about 30mph on the lake at 4800 rpm. A very small amount of oil is coming from the vent tube now, I think its residual from when I put too much oil in it.
I do have a small over heating problem now, I think it might be the hose clamp on the cast part to the outdrive, I stripped the hose clamp out.
Now for the real problem, when the boat has been running if I shut her down she is really hard to start until she has sat for a while then 4 pumps and fires right up idles great at 850-900rpm. I pulled a plug and checked for spark, there is spark but it seems a little week to me after its warmed up. what would cause this? I just replaced the Coil last year.

 

[kenny nunez]

Get a test light and probe the spade on the solenoid at the 3 o’clock position to make sure it has voltage when cranking. This is supposed to feed the coil on the + side which by passes the resistor in cranking mode only. If there is no voltage replace the solenoid.
Bayliner did not use the genuine Volvo harness which had the by pass in the genuine Volvo ignition switch.

 

[Stearns250]

when I installed the new coil I didn't see a resistor anywhere. maybe I am missing something. is there a diagram that you would be able to point out the solenoid?

 

[kenny nunez]

The resistor is a wire that is wrapped in the engine harness. It is not giving any trouble right now because the engine is running good from what you are describing. The solenoid is the round cylinder on top of the starter where the main battery cable is attached.

 

[Stearns250]

oh ok, so i need to hook a wire from the positive side on the started to the positive side on the coil. i will do that Friday. thank you for all your help i will report back with how it starts after adjustments are made, headed to the lake week after next to test it out.

 

[kenny nunez]

Do not connect the wire that goes to the coil to the large battery connection on the starter, look closely and you will see a male spade to the right of the large battery connection.

 

[dennis461]

The relays are somewhat generic and can be found at all the auto stores. Remove the cover from the lift unit and check for both positive and negative voltage to the 2 relays.

generic may not fit depending on the type of relay housing he has. There were at least two versions.
My solution is found here.
http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?395935-270-OD-lift-relay-help-please

As for engine temperature at 190, I'd say that's too high. Could be some blockage in the heat exchanger, which would increase pressure at the pump and result in excessive leakage.

Stalling in gear sounds more like a timing problem, check to make sure the timing actually retards at idle.

Sending 12VDC direct to the points/coil is not a good idea, the original system utilizes a resistor and should work fine with it installed.

The carb has some intricate pathways, difficult to clean, maybe try that again.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BT8Ahi9nUNs

 

[Stearns250]

From my understanding, research and my book it says that the T-stat does not start to open until 197, i know whats causing the leak, the little rubber deal that goes behind the pump and the shaft connects to it that rubber deal is rubbing on the seal, i have ordered 2 of those darn things and they just seem too large. Would it hurt anything to shave off a bit to make it fit properly?

 

[Stearns250]

i am unable to open your link. The boat does not stall any more, idles great drives perfect, She just has a hard time starting after getting to temp.

 

[kenny nunez]

12 volts to the + side of the coil is for starting only AKA “BY-PASS” circuit. Not for constant running with a points system.

 

[dennis461]

From my understanding, research and my book it says that the T-stat does not start to open until 197, i know whats causing the leak, the little rubber deal that goes behind the pump and the shaft connects to it that rubber deal is rubbing on the seal, i have ordered 2 of those darn things and they just seem too large. Would it hurt anything to shave off a bit to make it fit properly?

I had too much to drink last night and cannot understand your description.

You need to buy this one, cut the tab off.
Use sharp knife or hacksaw blade to cut the plastic, the metal peice fall away leaving an exact fit relay.
There are several sizes on the market, most stores do not carry this small one.

Wholesale - A2C 775 Universal Automotive Relay
To see it installed, go here..http://s596.photobucket.com/albums/t... tilt control/

 

[Stearns250]

I made it out to the lake, boat started and ran great.
I pulled into a cove and shut it off, went to start he back up after about 5 min and she wouldnt start, I pulled the center coil wire off of the distributor and checked for voltage which was zero. After about 30 min or so she would get spark and start right up.anyone have any ideas?

 

[Stearns250]

I think it might be the coil but i am not sure, is there something else I should look at?

 

[jerryjerry05]

Start and let run.
The coil will heat up but not get so hot you can't touch it.

Measure the voltage going into the coil.
Should be about 9v

File the points and replace the condenser.

 

[Stearns250]

i have the electronic ignition on the boat now, i will test the voltage going to the coil. i bought this coil on my last tune up which was last year, did i get the wrong coil? https://www.amazon.com/Beru-Ignitio...8&qid=1532433060&sr=8-1&keywords=3.3+ohm+coil