1986 Force 85 HP - Engine Tune Up - What to Check to be water ready?

kevinstan

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 19, 2012
Messages
169
I am not the best with engines, but I try. Youtube has been my friend, but I still like asking on here since I usually get a lot of good answers. Here's my question: I have a 1986 Force 85 hp engine that came on a pontoon I just bought. I have spent the past 3 days going over everything I can to get it ready for the water. Can anyone tell me more of what I need to check before hitting the water? Any suggestions from other outboard owners? Here is what I have done so far:

1. The 1986 Force doesn't have a tale-tell hole so I wasn't 100% sure the water pump was still good. I hooked up the hose on top where the temp gauge was just to be sure it was in fact pumping water - which it is. So I plugged the hole back up and took the homemade tale-tell off since I was afraid it could be taking away cold water form the engine. As long as I know its working I am good.

2. Trim wasn't working. I redid some wiring and I know it has a small leak in the hydraulic reservoir but I can deal with that for the season. Just takes topping it off every now and then.

3. I noticed the carbs are all 3 leaking a slow drip of gas after running the engine. I ordered 3 new gasket sets and when they arrive this week I am hoping to just simply drop the bowls from the carbs and put the new gaskets on them without having to disassemble anything else.

4. Spark plug wires were getting worn on the area that covered the tip of the plugs. I didn't want it to jump spark so I used some marine silicone to cover the broken openings in hopes of a quick fix to get me through the season.


What are some other things that I need to go over and check to make sure I am good for the water? I have a few other things on my list but I feel like I am missing something?

Next on my list is to check and make sure the battery is being charged while the motor is running. There are actually two batteries on the boat, and I want to see if they are both being charged.

Any suggestions or input would be greatly appreciated. I have a wife and 3 kids - so being stranded on the water wouldn't be too fun.

Thanks to everyone in advance!
 

pnwboat

Rear Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2007
Messages
4,251
1. The 1986 Force doesn't have a tale-tell hole so I wasn't 100% sure the water pump was still good. I hooked up the hose on top where the temp gauge was just to be sure it was in fact pumping water - which it is. So I plugged the hole back up and took the homemade tale-tell off since I was afraid it could be taking away cold water form the engine. As long as I know its working I am good.
When ever I get a new to me motor, I take the water pump off and inspect the impeller. The vanes on the rubber impeller should be flexible and not taken a "set". I usually end up replacing it. The best test is actually running it on the water. I've seen many impellers that look good only to find out that they were not pumping adequately to cool the motor at WOT.

2. Trim wasn't working. I redid some wiring and I know it has a small leak in the hydraulic reservoir but I can deal with that for the season. Just takes topping it off every now and then.
Tilt and trim is not that hard to repair on that year motor. There are several threads on how to do it should you decide to attempt to repair it.

3. I noticed the carbs are all 3 leaking a slow drip of gas after running the engine. I ordered 3 new gasket sets and when they arrive this week I am hoping to just simply drop the bowls from the carbs and put the new gaskets on them without having to disassemble anything else.
It may be bad gaskets, but be aware, when you tilt the motor all the way up, it's normal for a little gas to leak out. If you are seeing gas leaks while running, it could either be a bad gasket, or the float level is set too high and the gas is running out of the fuel bowl vent. If you take the carburetors off, you need to check to make sure that the carbs are all in sync. There is a "sticky" at the top of the Forum that explains the "Link and sync" procedure.

4. Spark plug wires were getting worn on the area that covered the tip of the plugs. I didn't want it to jump spark so I used some marine silicone to cover the broken openings in hopes of a quick fix to get me through the season.
You can buy replacement spark plug boots. The spark plug wires themselves are part of the coil and are not replaceable.

The other item that you should look at is the fuel pump diaphragm. It should be soft and flexible. If it's hard and stiff or torn, it should be replaced.
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
18,088
Make sure the air screw on top of the carb is set right after changing/cleaning.
​The older motors the plastic linkage on the towershaft and timer base breaks.
You can still find them.

Don't adjust the timing.

When running does the gas still come out of the carbs?

What prop are you running?
 
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