1986 Volvo Penta B230 AQ125A engine wiring

[greenstripe]

I have a Brown wire exiting the wiring harness at engine compartment and am not sure if the wire goes to ignition coil terminal or alternator. The brown wire is connected to either a fusible link or a resistor and I am afraid to short anything out. The Bosch distributor has new Pertronix electronic ignition, but the problem is the engine only seems to crank but no spark. I need to find out where the brown wire needs to be connected to. I do have the manual, but am still unsure. Any advise is greatly appreciated.

 

[alldodge]

The Brown should go to the oil pressure switch. If its grounded the oil light should turn ON

 

[greenstripe]

The Brown should go to the oil pressure switch. If its grounded the oil light should turn ON

All Dodge, thank you for your reply regarding the Brown wire on my 1986 Volvo Penta 2.3l 4 cylinder AQ125A engine. I need to investigate further because the brown wire has what appears to be a fusible link or a resistor and the location is opposite the oil filter on my engine...why would it have a fusible link or resistor?? I kinda feel perhaps it may connect to a terminal on the ignition coil, because I am not getting a spark. All my instrument gauges work, even though the engine just cranks and does not start. This old boat does not have a kill switch/lanyard.. I have been restoring this boat now for over 13 months and all seems correct thus far...with exception of the no start condition...

 

[alldodge]

I'm just going from the drawings I have, and their not very good
Here is the 125


Here are some others which are a bit easier to read and seem to be wired the same

 

[greenstripe]

I'm just going from the drawings I have, and their not very good
Here is the 125
View attachment 350688View attachment 350689

Here are some others which are a bit easier to read and seem to be wired the same

View attachment 350690

Alldodge, as I mentioned previously that I have the manual and it shows it connected to Starter 30 terminal and or alternator. But i think it may be connected to the ignition coil. Starter works fine...engine is not getting power to coil and I think it might be the fusible link/resistor.. I am stumped and have spent over a year rebuilding the engine to OEM specs and still NO Start. Thanks again

 

[alldodge]

Place a meter on the wire and turn the key ON, does it get 12V?

Also Petronics is junk in my opinion

 

[greenstripe]

The Brown should go to the oil pressure switch. If its grounded the oil light should turn ON

Alldodge, I think I found the problem with the NO Start om my Volvo Penta. It has dual carburetors and one of the carbs is not dispensing fuel to the cylinders....in particular the #1 cylinder. It tried to start , but only the rear carburetor shot a flame...so I got spartk. I think to tap the carburetor bowl to see if the float may be stuck . I am this much closer to finding the trouble. Thanks again

 

[ripjmk]

Does your manual agree with the diagrams alldoge posted? If so you may be getting the G and C mixed up. Which would mean the the brown wire "G" should go to the engine temperature sender. This may have a resistor in the line to make the gauge compatible to the sender.
If your manual is different then post a picture of the diagram.

 

[greenstripe]

Alldodge

Place a meter on the wire and turn the key ON, does it get 12V?

Also Petronics is junk in my opinion

I put the wire to the starter terminal and no difference....soooo, I tried to start it and found out only 1 carburetor is supplying fuel...The rear carb shot a flame...sparks good. I believe the float valve or needle jet is stuck on the front carburetor that feeds the #1 cylinder. Almost resolved. Thank you very much for your valued input.

 

[greenstripe]

All wiring matches fine to what Alldodge provided plus I have the book as well. I believe the NO Start condition is one carburetor has stuck float valve because the #1 spark plug is not getting fuel and the rear carburetor shot a flame which tells me I have spark. All the gauges work fine. Thank you for your response, much appreciated.

 

[kenny nunez]

If you have 2 carburetors then you have a 145. At this point you need to rebuild/clean the carburetors.
To help with starting look at the solenoid and you will see a un used spade connection on the port side, make up a #16 ga, wire from the spade to the + side of the coil. Bayliner/ Volvo 4 cylinder engines did not come from the factory with this wire. This provides 12 volts to the coil during cranking .

 

[greenstripe]

If you have 2 carburetors then you have a 145. At this point you need to rebuild/clean the carburetors.
To help with starting look at the solenoid and you will see a un used spade connection on the port side, make up a #16 ga, wire from the spade to the + side of the coil. Bayliner/ Volvo 4 cylinder engines did not come from the factory with this wire. This provides 12 volts to the coil during cranking .

Kenny, the original cylinder head was a 145, however I bought the AQ125A from VolvoPentaAndrew.us because it would work, even though with less horsepower. I think the problem was the front carburetor wasnt providing fuel to the #1 cylinder, therefore not firing up.... the rear carburetor shot flame which tells me I have spark. Tomorrow I will tap lightly on the carburetor in hopes of dislodging float assembly from the carburetor that is not providing fuel. Hopefully this will let the engine run. I am so glad that I joined this forum and am grateful to all who have helped me. Thanks Kenny

 

[kenny nunez]

Be sure that both carburetor throttle plates are synchronized. They run terrible off idle if they are not set. Those carburetors are easy to clean and most times the gaskets are re usable.