1987 15hp 2 stroke advice

Dboii

Seaman
Joined
Feb 28, 2017
Messages
51
Thanks for the replies guys appreciate it Im gonna clean the salt corrosion and run it hopefully it stays good. The guy is a mechanic but he lives 2 hours away from me =/. Is it safe to run it in a 50 gallon trash can for a while to check it doesn't leak from head gasket? This is my first time owning an outboard I know that it's 2.3 ounces of tw3 oil per gallon of gas so I'm good on that. I really appreciate you guys taking the time to help me out.
 

Dboii

Seaman
Joined
Feb 28, 2017
Messages
51
I'm gonna try it on my local Lake sometime this week or next I will let you guys know how it goes thanks again
 

oldboat1

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Apr 3, 2002
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9,612
Have fun with it. For cold starting, pump the bulb to prime the carb, and set the choke. Pull it over a couple of times at full choke, then without choking if it's stubborn. When it fires, you may need to half choke it until it warms up a little. Additionally, you might need to set the mixture about 1/4 turn richer (counterclockwise) for cold starting and warm up, then return it to the original setting. And....make a mental note of the cold starting procedure that works for you.

The pan appears to be very clean. If there is any seepage from the t.stat gasket you would look for it around the cover or in the pan below the thermostat. After running, wrap a piece of paper toweling around your finger, and dab at the seal -- should be no moisture (and of course you should see no leakage). The head cover and gasket are unremarkable in your pics, and you also had a good compression test (wouldn't think there are issues).
 

Dboii

Seaman
Joined
Feb 28, 2017
Messages
51
Thanks for the great advice guys i was able to start the engine good but I ended up messing the impeller I started it without turning the water for the muffs on =(. Noob mistake. I ended up replacing the impeller but now I'm stuck trying to attach the lower shift rod into the upper it doesn't want to go in for some reason. I turned the flywheel and it does give me enough room to move but the upper shift rod just pushes down the lower it won't go in the hole any advice?
 

flyingscott

Fleet Admiral
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Apr 8, 2014
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8,229
Hold the lower shift shaft up with a screwdriver inserted into the brass coupling and hold it in place. Unless you took the coupling off of the lower shaft. Then reinstall the coupler on the lower shaft and use the screwdriver. It also helps to pull the lower shift shaft up as far as it will go and lower the upper shift shaft as far as it will go.
 

Dboii

Seaman
Joined
Feb 28, 2017
Messages
51
Thanks for the advice I will try it tomorrow morning. Is it safe to move the upper shift shaft handle from neutral to forward to make it longer and the lower shift shaft up as far as it goes or will I put everything out of sync when going forward
 

thatone123

Banned
Joined
Mar 7, 2009
Messages
707
This is one engine you cannot go wrong with. Will be running when most others will fail. I just worked on 1 that I took out about half a box of Morton salt that had accumulated over the years. I don't know if a genius designed those motors or if it was an accident!
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
38,884
What you do is spread the coupler slightly so that the rod slides in.---Move the shift lever as needed .----Move the lower shift rod as needed to get the most room to work.---Line up the notch with the hole BEFORE installing the screw.------Then it all goes the together and will shift properly.
 

Newyota

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 2, 2012
Messages
254
I just did my 88' like yours and I put in forward gear to drop it down far enough to take top bolt out of block then when installing just moved shift lever back till it pushed the shift rod down into the block and put bolt in..Make sure your copper pick up tube is in the grommet.
 

Dboii

Seaman
Joined
Feb 28, 2017
Messages
51
Thanks for your help guys i got it done wasnt too bad. I ran into a little problem though. My shift lever is able to go from neutral to forward but it is a little hard to go into reverse I have to move the propeller a little bit so it can grab on any advice on how to adjust this? Really appreciate it guys you guys saving me a lot of money on plus it feels rewarding when I get it done
 

Dboii

Seaman
Joined
Feb 28, 2017
Messages
51
Nevermind guys i got it fixed now. If anyone knows how to get it to idle better let me know because mine idles pretty high the lowest I got it to idle was 900 to 1000 rpm and I had to play with the slow speed adjusting knob was pretty shaky too sometimes i had to turn the throttle so it wouldn't die any advice on that sorry for all the questions just wanna get this right
 

Newyota

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 2, 2012
Messages
254
Did you do the link and sync adjustment?Need to get that first.
 

Dboii

Seaman
Joined
Feb 28, 2017
Messages
51
i took some pictures is this where i would adjust the link and sync? the screw to adjust this would be the one on the second picture by the air box right?


 

thumbnut

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Sep 29, 2006
Messages
98
There is a lot of screws in the 2nd pic..Its the cap screw in the 2nd pic one would use to get the roller to touch the cam at the line. The cap screw in the 3rd pic sets max opening.
 
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