1987 4hp 2stroke E4BRHCUD Neutral problems

[kyis]

This thing is driving me crazy. Ever since I replaced impeller I can't get neutral to engage properly unless I push hard on shift lever. Do I need to disassemble gear box to fix this. I hate to break the seal. I read on an old post about a spring down there. No reverse in this unit. Thanks so much for any help!

 

[Harry B.]

The shifting rod needs to be installed all the way into the coupler.
It's very doubtful it has anything to do with the gearcase if it functioned fine prior to your impeller replacement.
I sometimes stick a screwdriver in the window to help the rod into the coupler. Shifting the motor back and forth while getting it back in sometimes helps.
Making sure the rod in the foot is extended upwards sometimes helps assure the rod goes in the coupler as well.

 

[kyis]

The shifting rod needs to be installed all the way into the coupler.
It's very doubtful it has anything to do with the gearcase if it functioned fine prior to your impeller replacement.
I sometimes stick a screwdriver in the window to help the rod into the coupler. Shifting the motor back and forth while getting it back in sometimes helps.
Making sure the rod in the foot is extended upwards sometimes helps assure the rod goes in the coupler as well.

Thanks Harry,
I've tried a half a dozen times already, but I will wiggle jiggle the shift rod a little more. I've been a mechanic for 40 years and this seemed to be a no-brainer job. Worst yet is the impeller wasn't even bad but wanted to rebuild for trouble free boating. It's shifted beautifully before.

 

[Vic.S]

The shifting rod needs to be installed all the way into the coupler.
It's very doubtful it has anything to do with the gearcase if it functioned fine prior to your impeller replacement.
I sometimes stick a screwdriver in the window to help the rod into the coupler. Shifting the motor back and forth while getting it back in sometimes helps.
Making sure the rod in the foot is extended upwards sometimes helps assure the rod goes in the coupler as well.

Coupler ?????

Surely, it's a one piece rod which withdraws from the gearcase as you remove it and should just slide back in as the gearcase is refitted .

Kyis,
two things:-
1, does the shift lever itself move freely or has that become stiff due to corrosion and lack of lubrication (there is a grease nipple where this passes into the top of the exhaust housing)

2. have you displaced the O ring seal where the shift rod passes into the gearcase?

BTW the "spring you referred to is the clutch ......... this motor has a spring clutch , not the dog clutch you find in larger motors

 

[kyis]

Coupler ?????

Surely, it's a one piece rod which withdraws from the gearcase as you remove it and should just slide back in as the gearcase is refitted .

Kyis,
two things:-
1, does the shift lever itself move freely or has that become stiff due to corrosion and lack of lubrication (there is a grease nipple where this passes into the top of the exhaust housing)

2. have you displaced the O ring seal where the shift rod passes into the gearcase?

BTW the "spring you referred to is the clutch ......... this motor has a spring clutch , not the dog clutch you find in larger motors

Hi Vic, thanks for chiming in. The style rod is just a loose eighth inch rod with a tapered in no grease fitting. No corrosion. Moves very freely and there does not appear to be any o-ring where the rod enters. It. Just kind of dangles through the hole onto a call or somewhere. I assume that the motor clutch spring type that I would need to run the engine to check for proper operation, which I do each time but to no avail. Avail it stays in gear unless I push on the shift lever and it never really feels like a detents into place like it used to.

 

[Vic.S]

Hi Vic, thanks for chiming in. The style rod is just a loose eighth inch rod with a tapered in no grease fitting. No corrosion. Moves very freely and there does not appear to be any o-ring where the rod enters. It. Just kind of dangles through the hole onto a call or somewhere. I assume that the motor clutch spring type that I would need to run the engine to check for proper operation, which I do each time but to no avail. Avail it stays in gear unless I push on the shift lever and it never really feels like a detents into place like it used to.

The place I am suggesting there is a grease nipple but which could get tight due to corrosion if not regularly greased is where the shift lever shaft enters the top of the exhaust housing. Lesser makes do not have the greaser and often get tight, so tight that people break the shift lever.

Look at the mid section parts diagram in the BRP parts catalog

BRP Parts Catalogs

epc.brp.com

I am wondering if there is any thing wrong with the linkages between the shift lever and the shift rod but you'd have to remove the power head to look at them.

The shift rod passes through an O ring seal below a pressed in bush in the top of the gearcase If there was not a seal there water would get in and the oil would get out!
See parts # 8 and #10 in this diagram

BRP Parts Catalogs

epc.brp.com

Also wondering if you have bent the shift rod.. If the bends in it where increased it would make it effectively shorter so that might not engage with the clutch spring, which is what happens when you shift into neutral on these little gearcases

 

[kyis]

The place I am suggesting there is a grease nipple but which could get tight due to corrosion if not regularly greased is where the shift lever shaft enters the top of the exhaust housing. Lesser makes do not have the greaser and often get tight, so tight that people break the shift lever.

Look at the mid section parts diagram in the BRP parts catalog

BRP Parts Catalogs

epc.brp.com

I am wondering if there is any thing wrong with the linkages between the shift lever and the shift rod but you'd have to remove the power head to look at them.

The shift rod passes through an O ring seal below a pressed in bush in the top of the gearcase If there was not a seal there water would get in and the oil would get out!
See parts # 8 and #10 in this diagram

BRP Parts Catalogs

epc.brp.com

Also wondering if you have bent the shift rod.. If the bends in it where increased it would make it effectively shorter so that might not engage with the clutch spring, which is what happens when you shift into neutral on these little gearcases

Wow! Thanks so much for the diagram. It feels like that number 8 rubber o-ring somehow maybe got pushed down in there because when I try and push the rod to neutral which pushes the rod downward It has like a spongy resistance. Unless I push hard then it will go into neutral. The question now is does the bushing come out the top so I can maybe access that rubber o-ring? Or do I need to pull the differential part and work from the bottom? Thanks.
If there's one thing I'm great at is making a small job a big one!

 

[kyis]

Wow! Thanks so much for the diagram. It feels like that number 8 rubber o-ring somehow maybe got pushed down in there because when I try and push the rod to neutral which pushes the rod downward It has like a spongy resistance. Unless I push hard then it will go into neutral. The question now is does the bushing come out the top so I can maybe access that rubber o-ring? Or do I need to pull the differential part and work from the bottom? Thanks.
If there's one thing I'm great at is making a small job a big one!

Good news. Bad news. I pulled the differential part and I believe I found the problem. The tip of the clutch spring has broken off. How I manage to do that is beyond me. I also found the tip of the broken spring at the bottom. So I'm assuming I'd flip it to neutral. It would not go. If I pushed hard enough I would just be pushing on the shaft but not really grabbing the spring lock.

 

[racerone]

The spring tab hits the shift rod.----Spring opens and stops driving the propshaft.

 

[Vic.S]

Good news. Bad news. I pulled the differential part and I believe I found the problem. The tip of the clutch spring has broken off. How I manage to do that is beyond me. I also found the tip of the broken spring at the bottom. So I'm assuming I'd flip it to neutral. It would not go. If I pushed hard enough I would just be pushing on the shaft but not really grabbing the spring lock.

Luckily the spring is available.

If you need to replace the O ring shift rod seal I believe you have to cut a thread in the bush, thread in a bolt and use that to pull the bush out.