1987 50hp Evinrude E50TLCUD Thermostat Replacement

FishAtFive

Seaman
Joined
Sep 3, 2025
Messages
69
Thanks guys, learned something new today. Looper vs crossflow.

Ok so I put the seal flange in backwards. Can't undo that. My thinking was with the flange point towards the block the thermostat it sat in there better and did not move around when assembling. At least anyone with the same question in the future will find this thread and do it the right way. Based on what I saw removing the old one, I suspect it probably does not make much difference. The old one I couldnt even figure out where the flange went.

I am hoping to take it out on Wednesday for sea trials. Please please please let this fix it. I am tired of it stalling while trying to dock. I got really good at "not going any faster than you would want to hit the dock".
 

saltchuckmatt

Captain
Joined
Jul 19, 2019
Messages
3,168
Thanks guys, learned something new today. Looper vs crossflow.

Ok so I put the seal flange in backwards. Can't undo that. My thinking was with the flange point towards the block the thermostat it sat in there better and did not move around when assembling. At least anyone with the same question in the future will find this thread and do it the right way. Based on what I saw removing the old one, I suspect it probably does not make much difference. The old one I couldnt even figure out where the flange went.

I am hoping to take it out on Wednesday for sea trials. Please please please let this fix it. I am tired of it stalling while trying to dock. I got really good at "not going any faster than you would want to hit the dock".
Why would you not run some kind of corrosion blaster through your motor when you haven't even diagnosed your motor. Nasty looking t-stats tested fine, right? The water orifices in that motor are not very big...plugging is easy.

That motor is not ready for fishing.
 

FishAtFive

Seaman
Joined
Sep 3, 2025
Messages
69
Ok reporting back from the dock. Still has the problem of bogging down in gear. The bogging down problem is new, it started the last time I had it out before I changed the thermostat. Here is what happened exactly:

[Last trip before changing thermostat]
I was cruising around, fishing was not good, so on the way back I stopped to fish an old road bed. No luck, so I started the motor to head back to the dock and it would not accellerate, 6 mph tops. I headed back to the dock like that and then it overheated.

So I changed the thermostat. Been meaning to do it anyway. Tested the old one and it was shot so no regrets there.

[Today]
Started a little rough, not idling great. Still the same problem, bogs down and wont accellerate when in gear.

I'm not looking for suggestions. There are very few parts on this motor I have not already rebuilt or replaced multiple times. Either one of the replacement parts are no good or I messed up rebuilding a part. Or maybe there is just something fundamentally wrong with the powerhead. I have to take care of some family business over the next few weeks but if I have time I will go over the basics again. Check the spark gap, pull the carbs, check the floats, check the flywheel key make sure it's not bent, etc. If I don't find anything obvious I think it's time to give up on this one.
 

Crosbyman

Admiral
Joined
Nov 5, 2006
Messages
6,049
comment from an intelligent shource
A 1987 Evinrude E50TLCUD bogging down is almost always caused by fuel, air, ignition, or exhaust issues. On that era of 2-stroke outboard, a few causes are especially common:

πŸ”§ Most likely causes​

1. Fuel delivery problems (very common)

  • Dirty or clogged carburetor jets β†’ engine starves under throttle
  • Old fuel / water in fuel β†’ poor combustion
  • Weak fuel pump diaphragm β†’ can’t keep up at higher RPM
  • Clogged fuel filter or line β†’ restricted flow
πŸ‘‰ Classic symptom: runs OK at idle but bogs when you accelerate.

2. Carburetor out of adjustment

  • Low-speed or high-speed mixture screws not set correctly
  • Float level off inside carb
πŸ‘‰ Causes hesitation or β€œchoking” feel when throttling up.

3. Ignition issues

  • Weak spark from:
    • Bad ignition coil
    • Faulty power pack
    • Worn spark plugs
  • Timing slightly off
πŸ‘‰ Feels like misfiring or uneven power, especially under load.

4. Air leak / intake issue

  • Cracked intake gasket or loose carb mount
  • Vacuum leak β†’ lean mixture
πŸ‘‰ Engine may surge or bog unpredictably.

5. Choke sticking partially ON

  • Manual or electric choke not opening fully
πŸ‘‰ Engine runs overly rich β†’ bogs, smokes more.

6. Exhaust restriction

  • Carbon buildup in exhaust housing (common in older 2-strokes)
πŸ‘‰ Engine struggles to breathe at higher RPM.

7. Cooling-related limp behavior

  • Overheating (bad impeller) can cause power loss
πŸ‘‰ Check for weak water stream (β€œpee stream”).

8. Prop or load issue

  • Damaged prop
  • Too much load (over-propped or heavy boat)
πŸ‘‰ Engine bogs when trying to reach RPM.

πŸ§ͺ Quick checks you can do​

  • Pump primer bulb while running β†’ if it improves, fuel pump issue
  • Try fresh fuel mix (correct oil ratio)
  • Inspect spark plugs (wet, black, or fouled?)
  • Check fuel lines for softness/cracks
  • Look for strong spark on both cylinders

🎯 Most common on this exact motor​

For that model/year, 90% of bogging complaints end up being:
  • Dirty carb(s)
  • Weak fuel pump
  • Old fuel system hoses

If you want, tell me:
  • Does it bog only when accelerating or also at full speed?
  • Does pumping the bulb help?
  • Is there smoke or sputtering?
I can narrow it down to 1–2 likely causes pretty precisely.

when accelerating

If your Evinrude E50TLCUD bogs specifically when you accelerate, that narrows it down a lot β€” this is almost always a fuel delivery or carburetor transition problem on these 2-stroke engines.
Here are the most likely causes (in order):

🎯 1. Dirty / partially clogged carburetor (TOP cause)

  • The high-speed jet or transition circuit is restricted
  • At idle β†’ OK
  • When you throttle β†’ not enough fuel β†’ bog
πŸ‘‰ Very common if:
  • Fuel sat over winter
  • Ethanol fuel was used
Fix:
  • Remove and clean carb thoroughly (not just spray β€” full disassembly best)

🎯 2. Weak fuel pump

  • Pump can supply idle fuel but not enough when demand increases
πŸ‘‰ Test:
  • While accelerating, squeeze the primer bulb
    • If engine picks up β†’ fuel pump is weak

🎯 3. Air leak in fuel system

  • Cracked fuel line, loose connector, bad tank fitting
  • Engine sucks air β†’ leans out when accelerating
πŸ‘‰ Symptoms:
  • Bog + sometimes surging

🎯 4. Carb adjustment off

  • Lean mixture on acceleration
πŸ‘‰ Especially if someone adjusted screws recently

🎯 5. Choke not opening fully

  • Engine runs too rich when throttle applied
πŸ‘‰ Usually comes with:
  • Extra smoke
  • β€œBlubbering” sound instead of clean bog

🎯 6. Ignition weakness (less common but possible)

  • Coil or power pack weak under load
πŸ‘‰ Usually:
  • Feels like misfire, not just bog

⚑ Quick diagnostic trick (very useful)​

Next time it bogs:
  • Pump the primer bulb
    • βœ… Improves β†’ fuel pump / fuel restriction
    • ❌ No change β†’ carb or ignition

πŸ§ͺ Simple checklist​

  • Fresh fuel mix?
  • Fuel lines soft or cracked?
  • Spark plugs fouled?
  • Carb ever cleaned recently?

πŸ‘ Bottom line​

For your exact symptom (bog on acceleration only), the odds are:
πŸ‘‰ ~70% carb dirty
πŸ‘‰ ~20% fuel pump / fuel line issue
πŸ‘‰ ~10% everything else

 

FishAtFive

Seaman
Joined
Sep 3, 2025
Messages
69
See post #2

One thing I learned with all this is if you want to buy a boat, do it long before your kids are colleg age, because it's hard to say you can't afford their tuition as you roll up with a new boat.

But back to the motor, I was messing around with it yesterday, and unbelieveably I saw no spark on the bottom cylinder. THAT I can troubleshoot. And it turns out I have nothing to do tomorrow, as I withdrew from classes the week before last because my mom had a stroke and I had to go up to NY to see her, and it turns out she is doing better so I don't need to go back up to NY as I had planned.

My plan tomorrow, not in a any particular order:

1) Test the wires
2) Test the coils
3) Unplug the kill switch from the harness
4) Check the flywheel key
5) Test the charge coil
6) Test the trigger
7) Clean the grounds

and if all that fails, there is an old guy that fixes these motors about 45 minutes away and I will take a ride to see if he has a pile of spare parts I can scavenge a power pack from.
 

Mc Tool

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Aug 7, 2024
Messages
1,194
Hey FishAtFive, I wouldnt like to see you give up ,I know it can be a real mind#uck and sometimes you do have to down tools ( horizontally across workshop is fine 😁) and walk away .
The above by Crosbyman is gold .
Two things Id like to add......
1, carbs can be a sod to clean , blasting them out with air or degreaser / carb cleaner or ultrasonic cleaners do NOT always work .....fair play I always try them 1st but often wind up fully stripping , inc welch plugs and physically poking out all the passages and air bleeds with bits of fishing nylon .
2, Is there any way you could get the motor into water to test ,I mean like on the trailer on a ramp so you could stand next to motor ( knee deep in water )so you can inspect and adjust while the motor is under some load . Useful to see spark gap and twiddle things to see what makes a difference.
These things aint magic , Im sure you will get it sussed πŸ˜ƒ
 

Crosbyman

Admiral
Joined
Nov 5, 2006
Messages
6,049
problem of it idling poorly after warming up has never went away

idling on all these oldies from cd fd qd etc...relies on drawing (sucking) fuel from the lower carb bowl via a very narrow side channel. Your carb model uses a air "orifice plug" instead of the old easy to adjust pointy needles.
1775909878261.png
Fuel reaches the top of the carb and drips out 3 small holes with the throttle plate closed. If the plate is not closed properly suction of the necessary "idling" fuel supply deminishes as the crankcase vacum now " tries" unsuccesfully to draw fuel from the high speed fuel supply from the carb bowl center post.
1775910443474.png


Compression is excellent, you have sparks so getting fuel into the cyl seems to be the missing element. Sucking fuel from the carbs needs good vacum from the crankcase during piston up strokes. If for some reason other than throttle plate not closing properly vacum could be lost due to bad crankcase seals alowing air to be sucked in instead to the fuel from the carbs. (see tube from Danbar marine).

Hopefully not the case ( see Danbar marine utube) .

Has suggested by McTool cleaning the carb may require poking out the side channel path up to the upper drip chamber under the round dime size plug ( which can be removed for inspection... and replaced.)

Carburator concept and operation is well detailled in the Johnson service bible ( see carb section) you can download free. Old stuff but concepts are good for your " modern" 1983 carbs
 

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FishAtFive

Seaman
Joined
Sep 3, 2025
Messages
69
Guys in a thread from last year you suggested the same, and you were correct! I did totally break down thr carbs and cleaned ALL the paths as suggested, and they were indeed gunked up, fishing line for the win.

What I am dealing with now is no/intermittent spark on the lower plug. It should be easy to troubleshoot. There was no spark, then I put back on an old coil and there was spark. But then it was intermittent. And then no spark, but then spark again. My money is on the cheap power pack I got from amazon...but I know how to troubleshoot this. Should be easy.

And yes, I learned awhile ago, no more cheap stuff from Amazon.
 
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Crosbyman

Admiral
Joined
Nov 5, 2006
Messages
6,049
Those power packs seem to be a frequest suspect...maybe heat related..
when the problem comes up you could try a freeze spray to see if cooling a specifc component suddenly clears thins up. Cheaper than guessing or swapping expensive parts. Keyboard air spray at the Dollar store is cheap and held upside down .... will cool thing pressty fast!
 
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