1988 85hp force running problems jiggz jump in here please

Jeffromxer

Cadet
Joined
Jun 12, 2014
Messages
21
Judging by your results of the spray bottle test and your most recent tests, I would lean towards it being a fuel problem. Not too little fuel but too much in the #1 cylinder. When a cylinder is running very rich it does not produce the power of a lean cylinder. Which could explain the very little effect on idle when pulling the plug wire. If you are sure that the reeds are good, maybe try swapping the carbs if that is possible. You need 4 things to fire a cylinder. Spark, compression, correct air/fuel mix, and timing. You have checked everything except timing which would affect all cylinders. All that is left is air/fuel.
 

Jiggz

Captain
Joined
Oct 23, 2009
Messages
3,909
Those are great troubleshooting tools or videos. Definitely there is good spark on #1 and definitely it is not firing as indicated with no change in engine tune or rpm when plug wire is pulled. And you said you have 125 PSI compression on each of the three cylinders. And then when you sprayed fuel mixture directly into #1 cylinder while engine is idling, there was no change in rpm either. And you have also confirmed the reeds are in perfect conditions. With these diagnosis, the only possible cause of #1 cylinder not firing is because it is not sucking fuel-air from the carbs but rather more likely sucking air from leaks rather than through the carb.

It is really very hard to test where the leak is coming from and it is so badly that not enough fuel gets into the cylinder. But you can always test if fuel is actually getting into the cylinder by doing the wet test with a napkin. I understand the spray bottle test is supposed to have test for this but that is mostly for the carb section of the fuel-air mix to enter the intake but not the crankcase and eventually the cylinder.

Wet test by balling a white napkin, remove the plug on #1 (activate the kill switch so motor does not start) and place the ball of napkin in front of the plug hole and crank the motor for about 3~5 revolutions. The napkin needs to be really close to the plug hole almost plugging it but you want all the air to escape and just catch the fuel with the napkin. Fuel in the napkin will be indicated by yellowish stain. If there is no indication of fuel going into the cylinder, have a second person spray fuel oil mix directly into the carb while cranking it over and holding the napkin in front of the carb at the same time. If there is no indication of fuel still, it tells you the crankcase on #1 cylinder is sucking air from the outside rather than through the carb.
However, if there is an indication the cylinder is flooding (too much fuel wetting on the napkin), maybe you can try swapping carbs as previously suggested.
Sources of leaks that can cause reduced fuel mix going into the cylinders are the upper crankcase seal, fuel recirc system or fuel drain covers.
 

busted-bayliner

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 6, 2010
Messages
228
thanks guys ill try and move the carbs around if its possible to get the fuel nipple out. I did the test with a card board fuel was spitting finely on all cylinders. Ive own 2 stroke dirt bikes in the past and if un metered air got in the crank case the idle would go up almost wide open are theses different also cleaned the fuel re circulation system and fittings i also tore the fuel pump apart again and i got nothing
 

busted-bayliner

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 6, 2010
Messages
228
Ok guys i got cylinder one to run that i notice that top carb on the links looks way further back then the rest did at full stop i dont know how its possible but it was. I adjusted the link and now its running on all three heres a video of it running on just the number one cylinder

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2FS-QDNcyqo
 

Jiggz

Captain
Joined
Oct 23, 2009
Messages
3,909
So all along the carb was flooding due to an improperly set throttle valve. Anyways, congrats for finally seeing it working perfectly. Persistence do really pay!
 
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