1988 Smoker Craft 17FZO Fazer Rebuild (Second Try)

[Mudball_3]

Hi Everyone!

I have been snooping around the forums off and on for a couple of years now. Back in July of 2015 I started a rebuild thread of this same boat. I never made it anywhere with the boat at the time, and it has been sitting ever since. I decided to start a new thread because I am going a decidedly different route. A couple years ago I was all for going composite decking and transom. I have since started going to college full time, and as you can imagine can't afford composite.

I am going to use plywood (treated with the old timer recipe) and painted with gray Rustoleum paint on both the decking and transom. I don't plan on using carpet, but instead painting everything. Based off what i have read I have quite a bit of work ahead of me, but i'm not worried. I have a week off for spring bread in March and plan to get all the demo done, plus some. I look forward to sharing my progress with you.

Here is a something I drew up quick of the exterior color I have planned.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Looks like a winner. Stick with it, you'll get there. Welcome back BTW. Looking forward to updates.

 

[Watermann]

The key is to stick with it and move forward otherwise things don't go as planned. Post some pics when you get a chance. Us Starcraft guys like our Smoker sister ships.

 

[Mudball_3]

I have been putting together a list of materials to get an estimate on the cost, based off what I have observed on other rebuild threads. This is what I have so far. Please let me know how far off I am. Thanks.

4 x 1/2" BCX Ply (Floor)
2 x 3/4" BCX Ply (Transom)
1 1/4" Deck screws (clamp transom pieces together)
3/16" wide rivets (how may do you think that I will need)
TiteBond 3 (1 gal)
10 cu/ft of 2 lb foam
Gluvit 1 quart
3m 5200
3 or 4 1" Brass drain plugs and Fairing tool
PC-11 (for the pitting in the aluminum and filling holes)
Air Riveter
Bucking bar and rivet shank for air hammer

 

[Watermann]

A better question for the rivets are how long you'll need, what are your plans with solids?

What are the 3 or 4 1" brass drain plugs and fairing tool for? Do you mean drain tubes and flaring tool? If so get aluminum or you could even go with the plastic drain tubes.

 

[Mudball_3]

Yes I meant drain tubes. The bucking bar and air hammer shank would be to tighten any loose rivets. I can make both of those on the CNC lathe there at school. For the rivet length I figured a half inch for the plywood and however thick the stringers are. I'm not sure on that yet.

 

[Watermann]

Oh I see so you'll need some 3/16ths dia large flange bind rivets for securing the decking. When using 1/2" ply I use the .625 - .875 grip range You'll be surprised how fast they go too.

Since the only place to get rivets is a coupld hundred miles away I buy my rivets here. http://rivetsonline.com/aluminum-aluminum-mandrel-w-large-flange-head.html

 

[Mudball_3]

Waterman, thanks for the advice. FYI the same rivets on McMaster Carr are about 4 bucks cheaper per 100. I plan to add a second live well to the boat. What is the best way to feed a second live well? Install a second pump on the transom?

On a side note, I turned down the bucking bar today.

 

[Watermann]

Whoa that's quite the bucking implement you created there.

Yeah shopping about helps alright, if I ever need to order more rivets I'll check them out.

I would Y off the aerator pump livewell feed line rather than add a second pump. I would go no less than an 800 GPH or you could even go to a 1200.

 

[Mudball_3]

And would you use a pump like the thru transom Atwood Tsunami? Or something like the shurflow

 

[Watermann]

I have the Tsunami 800 for 1 livewell and here is what it looks like in my bilge with the pumps and float switch.

 

[Mudball_3]

I really like that setup. I was planning on doing something similar. Building a shelf for the bilge and float.