1989 AQ 311 Water in crankcase oil

[capt powers]

The I/O has been running great, until today. Today it was running rough and when I got inside the breakwater I opened the compartment cover and saw oil in the bilge. Also when I pulled the dipstick the oil was milky, same with the inside of the fill cap. There was no smoke from the exhaust but the engine cut out at the boat ramp.
I added 2 qts of oil and got the engine to run for a few seconds to hopefully lubricate the internal parts.
The engine temperature never went up.
There is no oil cooler.
The alternator stopped working, but that may be unrelated to the big problem.
Is there something specific that goes wrong with the older engines used in saltwater that I need to look for when I investigate further?
​September has not been good to me thi

 

[jerryjerry05]

Salt water: The v-8 Volvo oil pans were famous for rusting through.
I would think that that would have happened a long time ago??

The salt is a bit harder on the manifolds and risers.
Fresh isn't that much better.

What does the most damage is the air.
When the riser drains down the air accelerates the rusting and rot.

The water in the oil: Pull the plugs and check for water.
If you see evidence of water then remove that manifold and flow test.
Check the end of the riser and see how clogged or rotted it is.

I doubt you have the original manifolds and anything bought recently is more than likely to be made in China.

The parts from China are CRAP.

My trailer was new in 88. The springs lasted for 20+ years.
Bought replacements(Chinese) and they rotted out in less than 2 years.

Unfortunately the springs are only made in China these days .

Volvo started using Chinese manifold and they don't last any time at all.

 

[capt powers]

Thanks for the thoughts. The manifolds were replaced in 2000 along with the freeze plugs. The oil pan was replaced in 1992. I've had the boat since 2008 and figured anytime there would be a major malfunction. I'm happy to have gotten 6 seasons out of it, but now I want more. I keep the boat on a trailer near the water so will I bring it home to find the problem(s).
If I have to remove the engine can I do it without stripping everything off of it? How does it get disconnected from the outdrive? Any tricks with the motor mounts? there could be rot below them.

 

[jerryjerry05]

You CAN remove the motor without removing the bellhousing.
If the coupler isn't rusted onto the driveshaft it will come out.
Otherwise the top of the drive comes off.
There inside the transom is 6 bolts that hold the tail of the bellhousing.
They come out and the whole combo comes out.

The screws in the stringer???
They should just unscrew.
Once it's out you check the stringer for rot.

Depending on the boat?? It probably has wood under the fiberglass.
If there is rot? You might be able to fill with a product like Git Rot.
It's a liquid that turns hard after being poured in the rotted wood?