1989 Evinrude 60 HP

[bcj.jones]

I recently rebuilt the carbs on the 60 hp Evinrude. Reading the adjustment procedure it seems like I would go out 1 1/2 turns on the middle carb first and adjust according to the instructions. Most people that I have found that have this motor are usually about 1 to 1 1/2 turns out. Mine runs best being 2 - 2 3/4 turns out. Seems like its running a bit rich but it runs best at that setting?

Leave it there or am I doing something wrong?

 

[jbuote]

Not a pro here, but...

Did you start with 1 1/2 turns out on all carbs?
The way I've read the posts etc... is that we'd start with all carbs at initial setting, then (in the case of a 3 carb engine) begin adjusting in on the middle carb first, then the others.
Repeating the adjustments until it runs well..

Off the top of my head, if idle adjustments need 2 - 2 3/4 turns out, could the throttle plates be open too much at idle?
All should be closed fully at idle.

I guess I'd also do a compression test and spark test just to ensure extra fuel isn't compensating for another problem..
A piece of mind sort of thing, but always good to do when there are issue of any kind, just to get a baseline health.
Even if you know it's all good, still worth the short time to do it anyway to be positive..

Anyway, just some thoughts... I'm sure if I'm wrong on any of this I'll be corrected and I welcome that! LOL
I have read posts where some engines really are happy with idle turned out farther than you'd expect, and it's normal for that one particular engine, so it COULD be fine for you..

Hope it helps...

EDIT: In thinking more about it, you said you recently rebuilt the carbs too. Did that include removing and replacing the silver domed plugs for the idle circuit and cleaning out in there? If those weren't cleaned out, a small obstruction there (if not preventing idle all together) could require more fuel at idle as well..

Just thinking out loud at this point..

 

[Joe Reeves]

What's the model number of that engine?

Remove all spark plugs... Check the compression. What are the actual psi readings of the individual cylinders?

With the s/plugs still removed and using a spark tester where a air gap of 7/16" can be set. The spark should jump that gap with a strong blue flame... a real SNAP! Does it?

Let us know what you find.

 

[bcj.jones]

Sorry I should've added that info as well. Spark plug jumps a 7/16th gap no problem and the compression is 124-125 psi on all cylinders.

I don' believe I removed and cleaned under those dome shaped deals on the carbs but man I let them soak for a couple days. Clean as a whistle but definitely still a possibility. Throttle plates are closed all the way at idle at some well

 

[Joe Reeves]

In the bottom center of the float chambers, way in back of the drain screw lays the high speed jet. Fuel must flow through that jet before it gains access to any other passageway. Make sure that the jet on each carburetor is absolutely clean. I always clean them carefully with a piece of single strand steel wire as solvent just doesn't do that job properly.

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Note 1: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.

Note 2: If the engine should be a three (3) cylinder engine with three (3) carburetors, start the adjustment sequence with the center carburetor.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.