1989 Johnson150 Comp Test Results

[winfieldh]

Re: 1989 Johnson150 Comp Test Results

Hi DHadley,
The numbers stamped on the heads are, portside=328324, stbside=328557. So unless the first three are the key, they are not the same. What does this imply/mean?

Hi emdsapmgr,
You suggested what I basically did (I think). I ran the motor with the fuel line from a separate 5 gallon premixed container and left the main oiler line connected. After about 4 gallons was used, the main oil tank did not look as though any oil had been used. If I understand correctly the mix from the vro is going to be more like 100:1 at idle so a visual of oil burn may not be possible. I see your point.

Could someone tell me what this black goo means? As mentioned it ran on hose for 4 gallons worth of fuel yesterday and when I went out this morning, this wonderful stuff was oozing out.

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/BImfL0_erR5ek6EEilAvpTPMFGspHqGFO_myBYDLSys?feat=directlink

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: 1989 Johnson150 Comp Test Results

You are going to have to run more than 5 gallons through it to see a big change in the oil level. It is not unusual to have a black, tar-type substance dripping from the prop area. Thats' a normal 2-stroke malady caused by unburned fuel/oil dripping down the exhaust tube. On your engine, the black good may indicate another problem. You may have a detriorating rubber exhaust seal at the top of the lower unit. Left unrepaired hot exhaust can leak around the seal to the composite impeller housing and cause heat deformation issues. Both of your heads are from a 1983 V6 engine. Sometime (midyear perhaps) OMC changed the head part numbers on these engines. Usually, they paired the heads by sequential part numbers: 325556/557 and 328324/325 when shipped from the factory. I'm suprised to see them mixed on one engine. I'm not sure if this will make a difference in the compression or not-perhaps someone like Mr. Hadley will know the exact configurations of the head firing face and it's impact on compression.

 

[metriccrescentwrench]

Re: 1989 Johnson150 Comp Test Results

At lmmarine.com you can put in part numbers and see what all they went on, if you really want to look up those heads.

 

[winfieldh]

Re: 1989 Johnson150 Comp Test Results

Hi,
The portside # I am sure of, the stb was more difficult to read to read the first 3 digits, the last three I am sure of. Interestingly, all the paperwork I have for the motor talks about 1989, which is what the hull is. I may do some more investigating.

Looks like the next step is decarbing and water pump (I'll have to get proper year for parts on this.)

Thanks for all the input.

W

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: 1989 Johnson150 Comp Test Results

Post the model number of your engine-that will tell what year the engine is.

 

[winfieldh]

Re: 1989 Johnson150 Comp Test Results

Hi,
Model = J150TXXCCA

 

[winfieldh]

Re: 1989 Johnson150 Comp Test Results

Hi Again,

I took this to mechanic, changed waterpump, gear lube, and general look over. Ran well, new comp test
82 82
85 100
85 115
used engine tuner and then comp test was
93 82
92 100
90 120

I am not going to obsess of the comp test. Rather, the issue now is oil/temp alarm does not shut off. Turn key one notch and it comes on and stays on, whereas usually it would do a quick on/off and then start engine. I am assuming it is a bad ground somewhere and am going to start hunting at the key switch and work my way back. Any other suggestions for troubleshooting temp/oil alarm?

Thanks to all.

Winfield

 

[jonesg]

Re: 1989 Johnson150 Comp Test Results

Disconnect the port temp sensor plug (on the cyl head) and see if the beeper shuts off). Do the same with the other sensors to track it down.
Make sure the VRO wiring plugs are clean and properly connected.
Did you purge the oil line before hooking it up or was it already connected?
An air pocket in the oil line can stall it from flowing to the pump.

Find your model yr by googling the model number, works a charm.

You ought to consider changing the gear oil before splashing it too.
Use new seals on drain screws.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wj0la6c5FDg

 

[winfieldh]

Re: 1989 Johnson150 Comp Test Results

Hi Jonesg,

Wish I read your post about an hour ago. I got to fishing through wires under console. Went to pull out ignition switch to get better view and pulled the back of it off. Not sure what I was thinking (I wasn't).

I will have to wait for replacement ignition switch to further test

Thanks for the response.

 

[jonesg]

Re: 1989 Johnson150 Comp Test Results

Disconnect the ignition battery before messing with the wiring at the switch, if any spark finds its way into the black/yellow kill wire the powerpack will die.

 

[winfieldh]

Re: 1989 Johnson150 Comp Test Results

Hello again,

I have replaced the ignition switch with same type so wiring is as it was. Turn key switch one click to right and get a quick chirp. This is as it was before, I think that signals it is functioning. If I turn key back to left (off) then do one click to right again, it starts a fast chirping, not solid. So turn back off. If I go to motor and disconnect either temp sensor or oil sensor then back to key switch, turn one click to right, I get single chirp, turn off, and back on, get fast chirping. It seems the first turn to on I get one chirp, subsequent turns gets fast chirp.

I am inclined to think this is telling me oil pressure isn't up, which makes sense, motor not been running during these tests. The wire from oil tank to vro does have quick disconnects, so I'm wondering if possible to short these together and fake sensor to think it is ok to stop fast chirp? Otherwise, what might fast chirp mean?

fast chirp = >10/second

Thanks,
Winfield

ps. motor was running w/o any chirping...took to mech for waterpump...came back w/solid beep....started troubleshooting, broke ignition, see above. I took it back from mech with beep because I don't know history of motor so everything is with grain of salt. I figured some wiring corroded and I can find t/s that.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Re: 1989 Johnson150 Comp Test Results

You engine is an 88 model. The single chirp is normal, indicating the horn is functional. Your engine control box will signal two different warnings from the oiling system on that engine. If the sensor in the remote oil tank thinks the oil level is low, you will get a warning horn chirping intermittently every 20 seconds. If chirping is more rapid, one second on-one second off, then that is a problem with the pump itself. You can temporarily disconnect the wires to both devices for testing purposes. You will get constant warning horn if the engine overheats or if the vacuum sensor detects a fuel restriction at 7 inches of vacuum.

 

[winfieldh]

Re: 1989 Johnson150 Comp Test Results

Hi again,

Where/what does the tan wire on the alarm go to? If I pull this off the alarm, it chirps once when key is turned to on/off (not ignite). If I connect that wire, the first on/off sequence give single chirp, subsequent on/off's (no ignition) give constant chirp. So something on the other end of the tan wire is squirrelly (I think)

More info....Blocking Diode test failed. Following instructions from manual, did blocking diode test and got continuity through wiring harness and temp switch with tester leads in either direction. Trick is, book doesn't say what/where/how this diode is. Any insight would be great!!

Thanks,
W