1990 Dynasty 220 Cuddy Restoration

local

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 10, 2012
Messages
31
Update part 2!

So, I think I have failed. Probably all my fault, I am trying to use some pretty old poly resin. I did get new MEKP and I did several test pieces to check for consistency and strength. I was satisfied with the results of my tests. But I am getting ahead of myself so let's pick up where I left off.

I am not going to be putting the thru-hull exhaust back, especially above the swim platform so since the transom was off I decided to practice glassing by putting a layer of CSM over the interior of the holes before installing the transom. I had the bright idea of putting apiece of tape over the outside of the opening to hold the mat in place. That worked right up until I started trying to put resin on it. I made some thickened resin as I was putting it on a vertical surface and did not feel like chasing it everywhere.

I barely got the first one stuck to the hull before the resin started kicking off, I'm not real happy about it but it isn't exactly structural so it will do. But I learned my lesson for the second one and coated the hull first then slapped the mat on top of that, much easier to coat the mat now and I am much more happy.

Now we are getting close to transom time, I am nervous. I have already done this once and I failed to get a good bond. This time I am going much more in depth with my clamping. I am going to use four 2x4's bolted through the keyhole alternating between outer and inner with a vertical piece of wood to spread the force even further. Should be nice I think.

But I am still worried about the bonding so I do more research. Found something I did not do last time, a layer of CSM between the hull and the transom. Technically it is supposed to be wrap the transom but, no I am not even going to attempt that. I will put a layer across the back then install and fillet then I will put the front layer on and proceed with the 1708.

Tonight we put the CSM on the back of the transom. I knew the wood would absorb some of the resin and from my experience so far I was much easier to put the mat on if the mounting surface was wet so we coated the entire back with resin. Immediately put the mat on and then started coating it.

After the first bucket I could tell something wasn't right, there was no transparency. I didn't have too much trouble with bubbles but it just wouldn't soak through. Very quickly the first bucket kicked off so we started the next one, and the next and the two after that. By the end I was just putting as much as I could in one place to try to get it to absorb. I didn't work I just created an area where I have pooled resin sitting on top of dry glass that is barely adhered to the wood from the first coat.

At this point I am not sure that this transom can be saved, it would be more work to try to grind all this off than it would to just build another one. But I also don't know if I even feel like continuing this project anymore. I don't know if I just didn't put enough on the first coat or if the older resin thickened too much to be absorbed or if I just failed in the application. But redoing the transom for a third time and looking at potentially failing to get it properly installed anyway is just about too much right now.
 

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Original Thor

Seaman
Joined
Jun 11, 2020
Messages
61
If your epoxy or resin is 8 years old it's no good. I had a 180 dollar gallon of overcoat in the garage with only quarter out of it and sat on the shelf for a years and it wast toast.

You might get lucky if that stuff is old a few wacks with a hammer and its might just fall off.

I would have to agree with you on the lack of feed back here. Asked multiple questions and get nothing. Even though they say this is the best forums. Oh well.
 

local

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 10, 2012
Messages
31
If your epoxy or resin is 8 years old it's no good. I had a 180 dollar gallon of overcoat in the garage with only quarter out of it and sat on the shelf for a years and it wast toast.

You might get lucky if that stuff is old a few wacks with a hammer and its might just fall off.

I would have to agree with you on the lack of feed back here. Asked multiple questions and get nothing. Even though they say this is the best forums. Oh well.

Nah the 8 year old stuff turned into some kind of industrial waste product, partially melted the bucket actually. The stuff I am using is much newer, cannot remember how much newer though, and the tests I did with it worked out pretty well.

And yeah my transom question thread got more responses than this thread has by far, thanks for the reply. I'm kinda hoping someone stole my boat last night so I can just forget this whole thing.
 

local

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 10, 2012
Messages
31
Good morning. Woke up this morning and went to check on how the transom cured, looks the exact same as last night. So I grabbed one of the corners and pulled up a bit, see pic. After the corner easily separated I grabbed my big chisel and was able to just tap it between the layers. They came off in great sheets for the most part. There were one or two spots that had penetration but the vast majority just separated at the mat layer.

I removed up to the halfway point and the majority of the effort I had to put in was an area about 5x5 that penetrated. The other side is much better in general and will probably take a lot more work to remove but I am going to do what I can.

I am going to abandon the rest of this bucket and order some more resin so there will be a break for a week or so until I get the new stuff. Hopefully that was my problem and it is not that I am just terrible at this.
 

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kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,739
Yea that blows. Mfg's usually suggest 1 yera max on glues.
No-one wants to steal your boat now...that was funny!
 

local

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 10, 2012
Messages
31
Went ahead and took advantage of one of those windy days that makes TX have lots of wind power and sanded down the glass. The half that looked fairly good actually did have nice penetration so we started looking at what we may have done different there. I believe the difference was that there was more resin below the mat in that area and it was able to soak through. The alternative theory is that there was some dust or something on the glass that made it more difficult for the resin to soak in on one half. Anyway I am ready to start putting glass back on but I may just use the resin I have now to practice until new stuff arrives.

Yea that blows. Mfg's usually suggest 1 yera max on glues.
No-one wants to steal your boat now...that was funny!

Hey now, people steal stupid things all the time. One can hope can't they?
 

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local

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 10, 2012
Messages
31
Whew, July in TX means hot and I am not about to get heat exhaustion working on this thing so... fast forward a month.

The new resin came in and it was like working with a completely different material. Much more fluid than the old stuff I had different color all kinds of better. I guess I forgot what good resin was supposed to look like after this much time. Taking advantage of a rare Summer cold front and 80 degree temps we skinned the transom with the new resin, beautiful.

A couple days later we made our first stab at glassing the transom in the boat and it was an epic failure. We didn't thicken the resin nearly enough so it wouldn't stay where we put it. After 20 minutes of fighting to get 40 ounces of resin to stick to something I called it and scraped everything off before it kicked. We made it, barely but not before some that poured into my shoe started kicking. Yeah that burns.

Thankfully it didn't take much cleanup and tonight we made another attempt with much thicker resin. After 30 of the sweatiest minutes of my life we have it in and clamped. I am fairly confident we have a good bond, it squeezed out of all the areas I expected it to squeeze out of and feels solid. I will check it tomorrow evening after I remove the clamps and see how I feel. If it looks good I continue, if not...
 

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