1990 Larson All American floor and stringer replacement

brian36578

Seaman
Joined
Feb 1, 2016
Messages
59
2nd layer of csm is almost done on the deck, just need 1 more 34"x50" sheet by driver area (couldn't get it while everything else was wet) and then all of the fiberglassing is finally done!! Couple questions before I proceed on everything else: I want to clean the boat very well before I put everything back in (can't even see through the dust on the windshield) how long should I let the fiberglass cure before it can get wet? I was thinking of washing it all Monday if I finish the glassing tomorrow. Also, I noticed some cracks in the gel coat on the bottom along the stringer by the gas tank. I'm assuming it happened from walking around in the hull after I PBed those stringers in. Can these stress cracks just be filled with gel coat and wet sanded or will it be more involved than that? I will post pics tomorrow of the cracks and the deck.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
If you put surfacing wax in your final layer of resin you can wash it down in 24-36 hours.
 

brian36578

Seaman
Joined
Feb 1, 2016
Messages
59
Why is it considerably different? The resin is solid within hours or less of laying it out. What is going on chemically with the surfacing wax that drastically reduces the cure time?
 

brian36578

Seaman
Joined
Feb 1, 2016
Messages
59
Or did you mean 2-3 days? When I called the guy who owns the fiberglass shop I bought all of the material from, he said a couple days and it should be fine.
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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Just because it's hard doesn't mean it's fully cured. As MX stated poly resin is Air Inhibited cured. The Wax floats to the surface and keeps air from getting in and allows it to cure faster. With no wax it will remain tacky and will take longer to fully cure. Getting it wet during the cure time can cause issues.

This should be informative...
About Polyester Resins:
The majority of all fiberglass parts are constructed using polyester resins, it's the most widely used type of resin in the composites industry. Polyester resins require a catalyst to cure or harden, typically methyl ethyl ketone peroxide (MEKP). They are naturally UV resistant, generally viewed as easy to use, fast curing, tolerant of temperature and catalyst variations, and they are less expensive than epoxy systems. Many view polyester resins as being easy to use because they have a high thixotropic index, basically they do a good job clinging to vertical surfaces so the resin won't run ordrip as much when making parts and molds. They also wet-out fabrics quickly and easily and they are easy to mix. As the most common resin type in the industry, it can be difficult to narrow down a list of common uses. That said, you can expect to find polyester resins used in the marine industry, used for boat hulls and other applications, they are used for general part fabrication, automotive applications, and for low-cost molds.
While these positives obviously weigh in polyester's favor in many applications since it is so widely used, there are a few drawbacks which must also be considered. For one, polyester does not offer as much corrosion resistance as vinyl ester resins, or as much ultimate strength as epoxy resins. Also, thin applications of polyester resin can remain tacky when exposed to the air. We recommend adding Styrene Wax to your resin for thinner layers. The wax rises to the surface and provides a barrier to the air which allows the resin to fully cure. Note, the wax must be sanded and washed off before application of the next coat of resin or paint. If a laminate or mold is constructed using three or more layers of fiberglass reinforcement, no wax is necessary as the heat generated during the cure cycle will fully set the resin.
Tech Tip:
If you want to avoid adding wax to your thin polyester layup or repair, spray PVA mold release over the lamination or repair and the resin will cure tack-free. Wait 25 minutes after finishing the lay-up, then spray on two light coats. Within a few hours, the PVA can be washed off with water, leaving a fully cured resin or gel coat surface.
 

tpenfield

Moderator
Staff member
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Jul 18, 2011
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18,202
I had some VE resin that stayed open on the surface for months, because of the air exposure. I hit it with some poly paint and it cured right up.
 

brian36578

Seaman
Joined
Feb 1, 2016
Messages
59
thank you for the information. I decided to install the transom assembly, power steering, trim system, and gel coat on the bottom before putting the boat back on the trailer and cleaning it thoroughly which will buy me some more time. Last night after disassembling the transom assembly I found a few other items that need to be replaced so that will add a couple more days while I wait for the new parts to arrive. The boat is in my garage right now and it has consistently been about 90?-100?F in there for the past week or so and only dropping to about 75 in the garage at night so I'm sure that will help the curing process. The fiberglass is solid and no longer tacky and visually "seems" to be cured. Is there any way to be sure if its good to go before I go and hose her down?
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
If it's not "Tacky" then you should be ok. Test on area by spraying some water on it. Wait a few hours and see if it turns milky.
 

brian36578

Seaman
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Feb 1, 2016
Messages
59
No Title

I'll give that a try tonight. I'll pour a small glass of water in an area that would be easy to repair. On Monday I pulled the bell-housing and gimbal ring off of the transom assembly and pulled the gimbal bearing out (bearing did not even rotate!) and it looks like who ever installed this one messed up the tolerance ring! I have pretty much all new components for the bell housing and ordered a new upper steering pin on Monday for the gimbal ring. It was pretty rusted and after i cleaned it up there is a good amount of pitting.
 

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brian36578

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Feb 1, 2016
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I have been busy on the boat the past week. Repaired the gel-coat on the bottom, put it back on the trailer, cleaned it (I can see through the windshield again now!) and rebuilt the whole transom assembly with new bellows, gimbal bearing, shift cable, trim senders (the wires were torn on one of the old ones which is probably why I had to use the trailer up bottom to trim up), new lower bolts for the transom assembly, and new upper steering pin. I installed everything in the engine bay and last night installed the engine where I took a step backwards... I first installed the engine, aligned it and marked the holes for the lag bolts then pulled the engine out again so I could drill the holes. Well the holes I drilled were slightly shorter than the lag bolts and on the 2nd bolt I ran down after re-installing the engine I had about 1/4" to go until it was fully seated on the motor mount and it was getting tight but I figured I was almost there and kept going and then snap! Broke the new 3/8" galvanized lag bolt...luckily it was on the slotted hole so tonight the motor will be coming back out, I'll fill in the hole with 4002 and drill a new hole, deeper, next to the old one and try it again. Still trying to get everything buttoned up to splash on Friday. Once the engine is mounted and alignment rechecked all that is needed is install the new driveshaft and u-joints on the outdrive, install the outdrive, time the motor since it has a new distributor, and finish lubing everything up!
 

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brian36578

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Feb 1, 2016
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Got the engine installed a few days ago and everything hooked up and adjusted. After getting the ignition timed, I took it out on the water today for a trial run and everything worked great! There was a little bit of chop since it was a little windy and last year (with everything water logged) the boat would ride rough through chop like this but now it stays up on plane and rides smooth. It was also nice to see that after about 45 minutes out on the water the bilge was still dry. Last year, there would have been at least a few inches of water by then. Just need to get the interior installed and I will be able to enjoy it for the rest of the season.
 

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Spectre250

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May 16, 2016
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Congrats brian!!! Looks awesome, glad to see it made it into the water and had no issues! Sucks about the engine lag bolt but it happens; and whoever installed that bearing should be fired haha. Mine is at a standstill right now...... someone told me to raise the x dimension an inch or two for more speed after I already cut out the key hole on the transom, so I dont know what I want to do......
 

Carpenter2486

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 14, 2011
Messages
144
your boat looks great, congratulations on the test! hopefully by next year this time it will be my boat doing the splash!
 

brian36578

Seaman
Joined
Feb 1, 2016
Messages
59
No Title

After a few days of staying up until 2 am trying to get the boat done for the 4th, I met the deadline! Attached are a few finished pics also a pic of the awesome captains hat my girlfriend got for me as a congratulations on finishing the boat present. I had the entire week of the 4th off for Ford shut down so I took it out 4 days in a row from mon-thurs. Next on the list is a 2 battery system and LED lights to go around the inside of the boat under the gunwale.
 

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