1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

[harleynut]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

I am hoping the 2 gallon kit will be enough for the Arauco ply but I am also thinking it's a bit porous. Hmmm.

I was thinking for at least the tops of my consoles (passenger/driver) I might try to build it and cover it with some thing other than vinyl like it was originally. The corners of the original were a major point of rot failure. I'll post pics once I tear them apart but you can get an idea of what they are in my restore link pics.

I'd like to try and build one and cover it in fiberglass. I'd like to order the glass at the same time I order my resin from US Composites but I have no idea what type to get. I want to order some glass and do some experimenting before committing! (I'll also be reading through the sticky pages on this topic).

Do I get fiberglass cloth or mat?

Then which type for my application?
Fiberglass Cloth
Fiberglass Mat

 

[fishrdan]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

I found I had water damage to the top layer of ply... no rot at all, but the surface layer of ply was cracked and had raised wood grain and the bottoms of the pieces looked brand new.

That's "checking" which is common with doug fir plywood, it was probably exasperated by the carpet holding water against the plywood like a sponge. I think you were wise to sand it before applying your vinyl as the raised grain would have transmitted through the vinyl, to some degree. I'm not sure you needed the epoxy, but eh, you made it better.

Harley, Don't use fiberglass mat with epoxy. Epoxy doesn't have styrene that is needed to break the binders of mat, binders needed to keep the mat together for handling. (IE; once fiberglass resin hits mat, the fibers break loose from each other, helps to conform to the shape.)

I think the Arauco ply will drink the epoxy quickly, very porous like you said.

 

[harleynut]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

I was going to start cutting my decking today. I know I saw this posted some place but I can't seem to find it online now. How thick is the Nautolex vinyl? My original decking ply was wrapped/stapled just around the edges with the carpet. I would like to use the current decking as a template but want to be sure I leave enough room/or tighten up as necessary to wrapping the decking pieces in vinyl instead of carpet.

Also, I was planning on ordering my vinly from Defending.com and using the Nautolex adhesive (probably 2 quarts). Here it is Storm Gray Marine Vinyl. Any concerns or is there a better place to buy from?

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

The Nautolex vinyl is about 1/16 thick, maybe a tad more.

Defender is where I got mine from too, best price I could find.

Storm Gray is the same color I'm using.

 

[thiker15]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

I completed my Lund pro v interior resto about 6 mounths ago let me know if you need any help
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=317793

 

[harleynut]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

Thanks for the info. Both boats looks great.

So where do I find out how make the right types of cuts in the vinyl for wrapping the corners and odd shaped edges? Was this trial and error?

Did you screw the panels to the stringers or rivot them? I've been looking at my local h/w stores but haven't found rivots long enough.

Also just curious if anyone has used the marine carpet from Fleet Farm? It's about $6.40 a sq yd and comes in 6' wide rolls. It says its something like 21 or 24 oz. carpet. I plan on carpeting the raised forward deck and my rear raised deck.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

I'll post some pics of the cuts to the vinyl for you when I start wrapping my panels.

I'll be riveting my panels to the framing because screws can twist the vinyl. I get my rivets online at Jay Cee's, here's the link:
http://www.rivetsonline.com/blind-r...m-rivet-w-aluminum-mandrel-and-dome-head.html

I'm using the 1/4" dia. dome heads and 3/16" dia. large flange heads for my decking.

 

[harleynut]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

How do you remove the window seal without dismantling the whole window? I was able to get one removed but only after tearing the window off the console and dismantling the window frame. This won't work well come re-assembly time since I need to get at the frame screws to re-attach the window to the new console with the seal removed. I've tried sliding the seal left or right while in the frame but I can't get an exposed edge to lift. Do I need to try and wedge something really thin into the seam? It comes out pretty easy once started.

 

[harleynut]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

I got the initial decking cut yesterday. I hope to get the front deck cut out tonight.

 

[jones01m]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

harleynut, the embeded picture in your last post came out well, however the attachments in previous post do not appear to be working.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

Looks like it's almost epoxy time! You'll have fun with that... wear disposable latex gloves and old clothes if you're like me, I think I can see a picture of that stuff on TV and get some on me!

 

[harleynut]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

Before I order my Nautolex vinyl, I wanted to take one last poll. I've read a few different posts on different forums how the Nautolex adhesive didn't work very well for them when applied over the epoxy resin ply. (It's also pricey).

Should I go with the Nautolex adhesive or am I better off going with something like the DAP Weldwood Original Contact Cement?

Thanks.

Jones, thanks for the info on the pics. I noticed when I uploaded those last pics from my PC I didn't get the thumbnail but just an oddly-named linked. I have moved my photos to Photobucket and will be using the

 

[ezmobee]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

I used the Nautolex adhesive over epoxy resin without issue.

You SHOULD be able to pop that window channel insert out with a screwdriver.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

Sand your epoxy coated ply with 120 grit before applying, the directions for the Nautolex adhesive state you should sand shiny surfaces before applying.

I'm using the Nautolex adhesive on the large flat areas and then using the contact cement for the edges and back. The contact cement is great stuff, but is difficult to use on large areas without getting air bubbles under the vinyl. the Nautolex is great stuff too, but doesn't have the instant adhesion for the bending of the vinyl up and over the edges and onto the back. I do the large flat areas one day, then let the vinyl set overnight, the wrap the corners and over onto the back the next day... it works for me.

btw, you'll need to get stainless steel staples to staple the vinyl to the back of your deck after wrapping the edges. I got mine online from Home Depot for about $11 for a box of 1000 with free shipping.

 

[harleynut]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

Thanks Jig, that's sort of what I was thinking of trying as well with the dual attack!

I do the large flat areas one day, then let the vinyl set overnight, the wrap the corners and over onto the back the next day... it works for me.

I assume you have to smooth out the flat area then scrape any excess adhesive that pushes out onto the underside of the edges to be wrapped before you let the panel set up over night? Maybe there's not enough to worry about.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

Thanks Jig, that's sort of what I was thinking of trying as well with the dual attack!



I assume you have to smooth out the flat area then scrape any excess adhesive that pushes out onto the underside of the edges to be wrapped before you let the panel set up over night? Maybe there's not enough to worry about.

There won't be any excess adhesive pushing out, you have to let the adhesive dry some before applying the vinyl. It's supposed to be sticky but not wet, I test it with my fingertip... if I touch it and glue sticks to my finger it's still too wet, if it just feels sticky and my finger comes up clean it's just right.

These 2 tools are an absolute necessity for a good carpet/vinyl installation.

The red 3 wheeled one is a carpet roller from Home Depot in the flooring dept. It will push out any air bubbles and really mashes/embeds the carpet vinyl into the adhesive, good for large areas.

The one roller tool is a laminate roller ("J" roller), used mainly for installing formica on counter tops. Also from Home Depot in the cabinet and laminate dept. It's good for edges and places you can't get to with the big roller.

You can get the 150 psf of pressure needed for a good installation with both of these tools.

 

[harleynut]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

Tonight I started to break down the old driver console and my front deck. I want to use the old wood for a template. The driver and passenger consoles have the most rot. The decking didn't really have any rot but now I see they used two different plywoods. The old PlyDek decking didn't really have any rot but the top and the bottom edges of the console has rot. I noticed the ply they used for the console is exterior ply and it doesn't appear they covered it in anything. It was wrapped in a foam padding, then wrapped in plastic, then wrapped in vinyl and carpet. It's pretty obvious where they screwed through the console for installation let water in and it rotted. If I were to drill out the mounting holes, fill with resin, the re-drill the mounting holes through the filled resin would that prevent this from happening? Or is there an easier method?

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

It sounds like that rot was caused by storm water from the boat being left out in the elements uncovered (murder). Wraping unsealed wood in foam aint too good of an idea either.

I'd say that sealing your ply with epoxy and keep your boat covered and you won't have this problem, but if you're worried about it just drill your mounting holes before you seal the ply and let the epoxy run into the holes... it won't fill the holes up, but it will absorb into the wood and you can just run your screws through the holes.

I'm doing away with moisture absorbing finish materials like carpet and foam on my boat and it's pretty much going to do away with all my water damage and rot worries... plus it's going to cut way down on the mildew as well.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

and add some 5200 to any screws you put in it.

 

[harleynut]

Re: 1990 Lund Tyee 1650 Interior Overhaul

So we have had a week of beautiful Indian summer here and I've been able to get my flooring epoxied.

One area I need to beef up in strength is where the driver and front passenger seat bases are mounted. You can see in the pics what I'm talking about. In the pics you'll see the red/white circle drawn over the cavity lines up with the red circles drawn on the decking.

I think I have a couple of options:
1) Epoxy a second layer of ply below the mounting area.
2) Add some additional aluminum braces across the cavity.

I will also be adding an additional brace along the outer edges where the floor meets the side. For some reason Lund stopped just behind the forward seating area.

Note to self: Next time when ordering the epoxy don't forget to order the pumps. They wanted $11 to ship just the pumps from US Composites. In hind sight it might have been worth it! I ended up measuring each in two separate cups then mixing together in third cup. Not terrible but more to clean up! :facepalm:

I also discovered that a 10" plastic painters guide (left side of pic laying under the scrapers) works well as a spreader. It has a bit of a curve to it and layed the epoxy out nicely.