1991 BAYLINER deck rot question

[island mike]

Re: 1991 BAYLINER deck rot question

Start low and work up.... Look where the stringers butt the transom.... Are you taking core samples? 3/8" drill bit go in about half way... wrap tape around drill bit at about 1" so you have a depth gauge to work with....don't driil thru the outer skin. If you find wet damp dark wood chips=rot.....clean dry light colored chips =good.... if it's all good just fill core holes with 3m 5200.

There you go again with the 3m 2500!
First of all its not a filler,And does not stick well to bare wood,Not the correct way to fill a hole,Use resin mixed with Chopped fiber or get a can of adhesive filler.Do it tight.

Regards I mike

 

[rickryder]

Re: 1991 BAYLINER deck rot question

There you go again with the 3m 2500!
First of all its not a filler,And does not stick well to bare wood,Not the correct way to fill a hole,Use resin mixed with Chopped fiber or get a can of adhesive filler.Do it tight.

Regards I mike

First off it's 5200 not 2500.....

secondly 5200 is a marine sealant and used all the time to fill screw holes...

I won't just throw that out there without data to back it up.....

as per the TS data sheet....

Description
A fast curing, one-part polyurethane that chemically reacts with moisture to deliver strong, flexible bonds
with excellent adhesion to wood and fiberglass. Forms watertight, weather-resistant seals on joints and
boat hardware above and below the waterline. In addition, its flexibility allows for dissipation of stress
caused by shock, vibration, swelling or shrinking.
If you care to read it yourself here's the link....
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediaw...7qe17zHvTSevTSeSSSSSS--&fn=Fast Cure 5200.pdf

 

[rickryder]

Re: 1991 BAYLINER deck rot question

Oh sorry Darren here's the link for pic posting http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=410147

I use www.imageshack.us upload pics there and get the forum code and put it on the reply box here.

 

[island mike]

Re: 1991 BAYLINER deck rot question

First off it's 5200 not 2500.....

secondly 5200 is a marine sealant and used all the time to fill screw holes...

I won't just throw that out there without data to back it up.....

as per the TS data sheet....

Description
A fast curing, one-part polyurethane that chemically reacts with moisture to deliver strong, flexible bonds
with excellent adhesion to wood and fiberglass. Forms watertight, weather-resistant seals on joints and
boat hardware above and below the waterline. In addition, its flexibility allows for dissipation of stress
caused by shock, vibration, swelling or shrinking.
If you care to read it yourself here's the link....
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediaw...7qe17zHvTSevTSeSSSSSS--&fn=Fast Cure 5200.pdf

Hey,Whats in a name!The product stays the same.Screwholes yeah,Im with you on that.But with screws in them.It is not meant to fill as in an adhessive filler.THOSE products are really ment to fill.Over time the sun and salt will crack and weaken sealant.Its simply not ment as a filler but as sealant.I have seen people use 5200 on almost anything,But the application it was ment for.. I say do it right,Use the right product for the job.
Regards I mike:facepalm:

 

[JOHN DESTEFANO]

Re: 1991 BAYLINER deck rot question

DECK ROT: Also have a 1991 Bayliner 1850 Capri Bowrider. Bud, I am actually glad I saw your post. Found te same thing with my boat when I went to check out those soft spots. From what I can tell the rot started because Bayliner drilled 1" holes in the deck after laying and then sprayed in the foam. The foam is cut off at the top of the ply and then they resin over it. Thats a bad practice because the resin will crack on foam holes and hence the water rot.Your boat was definately left out in the weather at one point or a while and that is why the insulation is so wet. It takes a while for the foam to get that wet. I used PT ply and hope the resin holds as I only sun dried for two weeks. Pour foam works best. I cut out and resined the wood on both sides, then installed with glue and SS screws. Any gaps between the wood you can fill with a mix of resin and chopped up fiberglass pad or fiberglass filler works well. Resin on top again, place fiberglass pad. resin again over fiberglass pad. Sand if needed but the less the better. Do not have to gell coat if outdoor carpet is used. Note below putting new floor back down.>>>
Note: That year bayliner also has a defect in desing in the way they suppoted the storage well. Ig you look underneith you will se the supports along th sides do not go all the way to the back stringer wall. This cause the area aroung the trap door cover to bounch and eventually crack and rot. Yo Bayliner, whats up?
While I had the rotted floor up I cut the mostly rotten board to the first support and made a support using PT decking 1X6 from the deck to to the hull and screwed it to the support uppright. Then took a PT 2X4 and mounted that along the front wall stringer and rested and screwed in a piece of 1X6 on top of the make support and 2X4. This gave the florr well housing a solid support and no more bounce. Hope some of this info helps somebody.

hey guys I am new here, let me start off by saying I am a car guy, restored a few classic cars in my time. just bought my first boat last month, 1991 bayliner classic 19' with 3 L I/O. I just finished recovering the upholstery, It was going great and was giving the boat a final clean before showing the wife, when i happen to take a better look in the ski storage. and found some rotten wood, well one thing lead to another and I pretty much have the whole deck ripped up. So I have 3 questions I need a Boat guy to help me with. 1) should I use pressure treated plywood to replace the deck? 2) All my foam under the deck was so water logged, should I be worried about a leak in the hull, I have not had the boat in water, but I inspected the bottom of the boat and it looks good, seeing that I ruined the old foam what can I replace it with, is there some kind of aftermarket marine sprayfoam? 3) upon futher inspection of the front motor mount (after pealing off the 1/2" plywood between the motor mount and the gas tank) I drilled four 1/4" test holes into the wood motor mount and it looks like only the first 1/2" of the motor mount is a bit soft, I was thinking of trying to chisel off the first 1/2" off the mount and replacing the original 1/2" plywood between the motor mount and the gas tank with a 1" board the make up for the 1/2" I removed from the motor mount. then refibreglassing the mount. any help or advise would be appreciated thanks

 

[rickryder]

Re: 1991 BAYLINER deck rot question

...

 

[oops!]

Re: 1991 BAYLINER deck rot question

well guys I drilled a few 3/8" holes into the transom under the motor and the wood that came out looked pretty wet but the transom itself looks real good with no signs off fibreglass chipping or peeling.

if the wood is wet....it wont be long till its totally gone......the glass looks good now...but if the wood under it has developed rot fungus....it needs to be stopped.

. Is this a job I can do after I complete the deck retore? Seeing I have not driven the boat yet I am worried I might have to pull the motor any ways to work on it. so I was thinking do the deck now and the transom and motor mount this winter. any advice thanksDSC00628

your deck is tabbed into the transom.....and to do the transom......you need to remove the back section of the deck.....so its better to do it all at once

 

[oops!]

Re: 1991 BAYLINER deck rot question

5200 is used all the time to fill core sample holes....or just about any other screw hole..

5200 is really really sticky stuff......it bonds to just about any thing....including skin......i actually hate using it with out rubber gloves !

yes it would be better to fill a 3/8th hole with thickened resin......but to make up a batch for two or three holes...when the 5200 will last for 10 years before any signs of failure.....why bother?

as for 5200 not sticking to wood....it does not like wet wood...nothing does....but it will do it....and it will seal fine

 

[proshadetree]

Re: 1991 BAYLINER deck rot question

I do not know how your transom is but my Bayliner is in 3 different parts. Center can be replaced after the floor because it connects to nothing but the outer skin. But why get your new interior dirty and all the glass dust when you can just do it now? I water tested mine and found the transom leak way before the insides went back in. Not that it cant be done. I just dont see why risk it if you can fix it now.

 

[island mike]

Re: 1991 BAYLINER deck rot question

DECK ROT: Also have a 1991 Bayliner 1850 Capri Bowrider. Bud, I am actually glad I saw your post. Found te same thing with my boat when I went to check out those soft spots. From what I can tell the rot started because Bayliner drilled 1" holes in the deck after laying and then sprayed in the foam. The foam is cut off at the top of the ply and then they resin over it. Thats a bad practice because the resin will crack on foam holes and hence the water rot.Your boat was definately left out in the weather at one point or a while and that is why the insulation is so wet. It takes a while for the foam to get that wet. I used PT ply and hope the resin holds as I only sun dried for two weeks. Pour foam works best. I cut out and resined the wood on both sides, then installed with glue and SS screws. Any gaps between the wood you can fill with a mix of resin and chopped up fiberglass pad or fiberglass filler works well. Resin on top again, place fiberglass pad. resin again over fiberglass pad. Sand if needed but the less the better. Do not have to gell coat if outdoor carpet is used. Note below putting new floor back down.>>>
Note: That year bayliner also has a defect in desing in the way they suppoted the storage well. Ig you look underneith you will se the supports along th sides do not go all the way to the back stringer wall. This cause the area aroung the trap door cover to bounch and eventually crack and rot. Yo Bayliner, whats up?
While I had the rotted floor up I cut the mostly rotten board to the first support and made a support using PT decking 1X6 from the deck to to the hull and screwed it to the support uppright. Then took a PT 2X4 and mounted that along the front wall stringer and rested and screwed in a piece of 1X6 on top of the make support and 2X4. This gave the florr well housing a solid support and no more bounce. Hope some of this info helps somebody.

Florr,Bounch,ig,undernieth,se,suppoted, Bud! Whats up with the spelling?!LOL
I would like to politely correct you on a few things.
Two weeks to dry resin??Epoxy resin hardens in about 20 min.Its dry and ready to sand and paint etc.after about a day.polyester resin takes longer but not two weeks.
anyway what I wanted to add is that all resins will crack and peel if not protected (gelcoated,Painted over etc.)Just fiberglassing the deck and dropping a carpet over it is asking for it..
Regards I mike

 

[island mike]

Re: 1991 BAYLINER deck rot question

well guys I drilled a few 3/8" holes into the transom under the motor and the wood that came out looked pretty wet but the transom itself looks real good with no signs off fibreglass chipping or peeling. Is this a job I can do after I complete the deck retore? Seeing I have not driven the boat yet I am worried I might have to pull the motor any ways to work on it. so I was thinking do the deck now and the transom and motor mount this winter. any advice thanksDSC00628

Transom wet?Replace. you think it looks good,But if it is not rotten already it will rot.The fiberglass thats not peeling or chipping has nothing to do with it.Listen,IF your whole deck is rotten You have to pop the cap,It might look like a mega job (and it is)But with all the help and expertise you have here on i boats , You can have her better as new..Did you read any of the forums about gut jobs?

 

[island mike]

Re: 1991 BAYLINER deck rot question

5200 is used all the time to fill core sample holes....or just about any other screw hole..

5200 is really really sticky stuff......it bonds to just about any thing....including skin......i actually hate using it with out rubber gloves !

yes it would be better to fill a 3/8th hole with thickened resin......but to make up a batch for two or three holes...when the 5200 will last for 10 years before any signs of failure.....why bother?

as for 5200 not sticking to wood....it does not like wet wood...nothing does....but it will do it....and it will seal fine

answer:5200=10 years resinfiller=forever! anyway he already told us that his transom is wet,oops. no use in sealing any core sample holes now,POP THE CAP!!!:redface::facepalm:
Regards I mike

 

[74bayliner]

Re: 1991 BAYLINER deck rot question

in john destephano's defense it may be possible they are using a phone to post that answer... i know that my iphone really lags on iboats.com and typing is a pain, as i have heard from many people that is the same with them..

 

[Darren b]

Re: 1991 BAYLINER deck rot question

hey guys here is a pic at where I am now. I also have the seat boxes cut out.

 

[bleedblue94]

Re: 1991 BAYLINER deck rot question

avoiding this argument about 5200 and getting back to your boat, i to am doing a 91 capri rebuild. mine is an outboard design though. here is the thread. sorry that it starts out slow but i was tip-toeing at first and then just jumped in w a sawzall and grinder. i know have the deck back in and am moving on to building the bow and stern seats. it may be of use to you.

one thing i have learned taking my capri apart is that the glass construction was horrid. air gaps everywhere (and by gaps i mean i could fit a finger in the spaces), wood laid on wood and glass put on top. basically with the way the boats were glassed, if any of the transom, stringers, or deck had rot start, the rest of it would rot. the wood pieces were not isolated with glass.

i had cold feet about this at first bc of time and money but its becoming one of the most rewarding things ive done in awhile...

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=531898

 

[rickryder]

Re: 1991 BAYLINER deck rot question

deleted

 

[island mike]

Re: 1991 BAYLINER deck rot question

Hey "dude" better read my posts again.No Bashing,attacking ,Or any of the other things you acuse me of going on here.
I give only constructive critisism backed by facts. as a member of Iboats I can.allways with due respect.Got a problem with that?
I have not heard a complaint from the mods. Have you?
a friendly fyi back and a very nice day to you too dude.

 

[rickryder]

Re: 1991 BAYLINER deck rot question

deleted

 

[proshadetree]

Re: 1991 BAYLINER deck rot question

Post some better pics of the transom if you could. I cant tell if yours is the three part design. If it is like mine you will not have to remove the cap on the boat. I did mine in a weekend and that included engine removal. I have an 88 model and I think they changed the style by 91.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1991 BAYLINER deck rot question

This ^^^ is true. A lot of the I/O boats don't require the removal of the top cap to replace the transom. Pics will tell the tale. They always help us to guide you to the best solution. Open a FREE Photobucket account, use the IMG Tag to copy and paste your pics into your iBoats posts.