1994 7.4L Bravo Gen V temperature

[bman440440]

Yes. I've connected to the top and bottom and still no water coming out the line at the thermostat. Water seems to flow freely through both the thermostat hose AND the intake hose from the drive. How long should it have to run on the hose before I see water?

I would think by 15 seconds

 

[JGabeH]

I let it run for 30 seconds and still no water. The only thing I can think of is that the intake hose isnt allowing the pump to suck water? With the intake hose disconnected from the water pump, the muffs can push water through the hose and into the bilge. Once attached to the pump and started, nothing.

 

[alldodge]

A LH motor rotates clockwise if your facing the front of the motor. If you have very little pressure the water may not be making it to the pump. You could pour some water down the hose going to the thermostat to try and prime it

 

[JGabeH]

Yes my motor rotates clockwise when facing it. Therefore my out to the thermostat is on the bottom. I did pour some water in the hose to the thermostat but still nothing came out when I started the engine for 30 seconds. I'm ordering a new impeller just to try. Mine looks all there but after trying it lately there is a little wear and rubber dust in there. Would having the drive in a large tub be better than muffs on the hose?

 

[alldodge]

Yes my motor rotates clockwise when facing it. Therefore my out to the thermostat is on the bottom. I did pour some water in the hose to the thermostat but still nothing came out when I started the engine for 30 seconds. I'm ordering a new impeller just to try. Mine looks all there but after trying it lately there is a little wear and rubber dust in there. Would having the drive in a large tub be better than muffs on the hose?

In most cases no, the garden hose should be able to supply the water so long as there is enough flow from the hose and the muffs do not leak really bad.

What is the part number of the impeller your bought?

 

[JGabeH]

Currently there is a Sierra impeller in it. It worked good last year. I just ordered an OEM 47-59362 to replace it with. Should I try something different?

 

[alldodge]

The 47-59362 is the correct number. My opinion is I would stay clear of Sierra, others vary

 

[HT32BSX115]

Would having the drive in a large tub be better than muffs on the hose?

That will destroy your impeller unless the tub is deep enough to put the water level at or above the level of the pump inside.

When the boat is sitting in the water, the level is such that it will put the water line somewhat above the level of the pump, such that if you were to remove the pump inlet hose, water would "siphon" out and into the bilge.

The pump if dry, will NOT suck water from the drive to the pump unless the entire hose from the drive to the pump is "primed" with water, and there's water IN the pump.

Otherwise, if you want to operate the engine on the trailer, either connect a water supply hose directly to the pump inlet, or connect a flush adapter (muffs) to the drive.

Also, if you suspect there was a previous disintegration (or disintegrations) , you should remove the hose to the oil cooler (both sides) and backflush to remove previous pump disintegration fragments. I actually had to use needle-nose pliers to extract the fragments from the inlet side of my oil cooler. Backflushing with 70 PSI water wouldn't budge them at all!