1995 115 HP Evinrude Problems (Updated with NEW problems)

[Traxion]

One of my friends has a 17' Sea Nymph w/ a 1995 115 HP Evinrude. Each spring since the boat was purchased, we've had problems with it. The oil and fuel are mixed in a pump, and when you hit the primer bulb it pumps both fuel and oil. The problem is that the gas siphons out of the hose just far enough so that when the primer blub is hit, the gas doesn't get there as quick as the oil and the oil fills up the carbs. So then we disassemble and clean the carbs, and prime them (while disassembled) until we get a good gas/oil mixture from the pump. Reassemble, and it starts. This just shouldn't happen in my mind. Even by disconnecting the oil, the pump still has just enough oil to mess up the carbs. To take the fuel lines off, you have to take the carbs off as well. I see a lot of these motors around and haven't heard of any problems like this. Anyone have any ideas?? The boat runs spot on the rest of the year, it pushes the boat to 45 MPH without problems. Thanks for your help.<br /><br />Eric

 

[DJ]

Re: 1995 115 HP Evinrude Problems (Updated with NEW problems)

Traxion,<br /><br />Somethinng doesn't sound right.<br /><br />You have an external tank for the oil-right?<br /><br />You have an external tank for the gasoline-right?<br /><br />Both should have their own primer bulbs.

 

[G DANE]

Re: 1995 115 HP Evinrude Problems (Updated with NEW problems)

Hi Eric - welcome to the board.<br /><br />His boat is standing outside during the winther - right. What happens is most likely that the cap vent in his oiltank is plugged or defective. The temperature differences during the spring creates pressure in the oil tank which fills the carbs with oil. I experienced that too. Try to clean the cap, in every peice. If not enough, press a paper clip through the diaphrame. Even better, buy a new cap. BTW remember to empty and clean oil tank and pickup filter every spring and run a tank of premix through motor while you observe that oil consumption is correct. Put marking tape on outside of oil tank. A good part of the lubrication system failures are caused by water in bottum of oil tank.

 

[ob]

Re: 1995 115 HP Evinrude Problems (Updated with NEW problems)

I'm reading you a bit different .It sounds like what your saying to me is that when initially starting the engine it seems to be running oil rich.If that is correct ,one or two things could be causing this symptom.Either the fuel has evaporated from the carb bowls over time ,leaving the oil behind or the vro pump is allowing a continually primed oil circuit to leak by while sitting out of use.<br /><br />Bare in mind that the primer button allows fuel mix from vro to flow into the intake chamber past the carburetors ,thus would not be causing an oil rich startup unless an oil rich mix was already present between the vro pump and the primer valve and carb inlets.<br /><br />There is an internal seal between the fuel and oil portion of the vro pump that has been known to leak by allowing oil to enter the fuel portion during out of use storage that can cause this very issue.Once the engine has run for a while after its initial startup,it will clear itself of the oil rich symptom.

 

[DHPMARINE]

Re: 1995 115 HP Evinrude Problems (Updated with NEW problems)

Trxion,What method is used to put the motor up for the winter?<br />DHP

 

[Traxion]

Re: 1995 115 HP Evinrude Problems (Updated with NEW problems)

Thanks for all your replies. The boat has an external oil tank and in-floor fuel tank. These guys don't take care of their stuff. In fact, when I went to look at the problem this last week, skis, the rope, a shirt, you name it were still laying in the bottom of the boat. They got done using it one day, parked it, and now want to start it 5 months and a winter later. No winterization period. I'll give that cap a real good cleaning. Thanks for the tip on the oil resivoir, I learned something there. Ob, the engine will not start until the carbs are cleaned, what do you mean by oil rich, I think I'm on a different page than you are. The seal in the pump may be something to look at. I can't explain the hose layout on the pump very well, but I'll try. When trying to figure this out, (I'm standing at the back of the boat, on the left side of the motor(pump side)), I took off the hose that comes out of the op of the pump, it turns down right away. Then, I hit the gas primer bulb. When I pump this bulb, oil pumps out of the pump and into this line. It looks like 100% oil. I haven't touched the oil primer bulb at all. Where does the primer allow passage of fuel to the intake ports?? It seemed to me that when I pump the primer w/ the carbs disassembled, it pumped into the float bowls and would be shut off by the needle assembly?? To show the extent of the oil, when I took off the front of the "airbox" (for lack of the proper term), there was oil running out of the carbs and the bottom of the airbox was full of oil. I hope you guys understand what I am saying by airbox, after the cowling is off the motor, the metal "box" with about 8 bolts in it that when taken out leads to the carbs. Another four bolts and some accesories have to be taken off to get the other half of the airbox off and get to the carbs. Thanks again, I hope this helps.<br /><br />Eric

 

[G DANE]

Re: 1995 115 HP Evinrude Problems (Updated with NEW problems)

Exactly what I expected and exactly what I experienced. <br /><br />My carbs were flodded with oil too.<br /><br />The change in temperature builds up an air pressure in the oiltank, and oil is fed by pressure into carb bowls and fuel line. When you prime fuel, it cant go anywhere, when the fuel line from tank is filled. Oil will not flow far down the fuel line as there is a valve in primer bulb blocking downwards flow, same valve which enables oil tank to pump oil up by several temp changes. The cab vent should be able to compensate for this. I took my oil tank off my boat and into my car on a day with frost, and as it got warmed up it flod oil out on the carpet on the way home. Get a new cap.

 

[Traxion]

Re: 1995 115 HP Evinrude Problems (Updated with NEW problems)

Well finally got this boat on the water today. I checked over everything as per the previous problem, and I think I have that taken care of. But today more problems arose. I haven't been in this boat in about a year (friends boat), so I didn't know what had taken place over the past months. First of all, I could swear when the boat was bought, the warning horn would sound when the key was turned. Now, it does not. I asked the owner if it had been like this, and he said it didn't beep all last year. We anyhow, the engine ran OK at first. WOT was good. But the, we started having problmes re-starting it. Sometimes it would fire right away, then the idle speed enhancer would have to be used to start. We didn't have to use the choke at all, it seemed to flood it. Then, at the end of the day, we lost pressure in the fuel bulb. There was a bit of fuel in it, but not enough to start. Finally, we got pressure again. On to the main problem. After trolling slowly for a bit, stopping, starting, etc. the engine started to heat up, but the warning beeper just chirped a now and then. I had my friend check it, and he said it wasn't too hot, and that the beeper had chriped like that all last summer(?). He said they just wiggled the idle nehancer, and it stopped. After awhile longer, I stopped him again and pulled the cover off myself. Cyl. and heads were hotter than hot, water sizzled on them. We let it cool, then had the primer bulb issue. Then it started, but the beeper chirped a bit more. He decided to run fast back to the dock, which I advised against. The beeper stopped midway through the run back to the dock. After we pulled into the dock I checked the motor for water coming out, and there was little coming from the hole. I was told it did this all last summer as well, and that a plate about halway down the motor (there were just two holes there) had been lost and the water came out of there instead, but I saw little coming from the holes. I assume the water pump has been out or going out for a year plus, and the beeper hadn't been working. Did the enhanced speed force enough water to stop the overheat? We were in 41 d. water, and 45 d air temp. How much damage could have been done, motor seemed OK. How involved is the water pump replacement?? I don't know taht I even want to do it, I don't feel like having my work on a motor that is a time bomb and I don't even own. Thanks for all you help, these forums are an amazing source of info.<br /><br />Eric

 

[Solittle]

Re: 1995 115 HP Evinrude Problems (Updated with NEW problems)

Eric - It is difficult to give you advice on this as you may be putting time, effort and money into a motor which has been abused and from what you have said will probably continue to be abused until it locks up. To continually run a motor at WOT with known cooling problems is asking to put a lot of the green stuff in a mechanics pocket. You could get a sense of the damage by looking at the plugs and pulling the heads (looking for scoring on the cylinder walls) as well as a compression test. You/they might luck out with little damage.<br /><br />Replacing a water pump is not a big deal and can be done in the driveway by someone with average skills. If you go ahead I would recommend that you get an OMC shop manual. It will save time, money and headaches.<br /><br />Consideration should also be given to replacing the thermostats and pressure relief valves. You may also have problems with the VRO and carbs.<br /><br />If you go ahead look at it as a learning experience. Else let the owner deal with it.

 

[Traxion]

Re: 1995 115 HP Evinrude Problems (Updated with NEW problems)

Thanks for the advice Solittle. I'm just going to see what happens. Is there any way to test the waterpump????? What procedure do you use for compression testing. I know on my sleds I just do 5 pulls at WOT. I'd assume I'd do the same? What should compression be, we are at 3000' alt.??? Before this, I just glanced at the plugs and they were good color wise, a bit rich if anything. Haven't checked wash or cylinder walls. One last question, I know it sounds stupid, but what does VRO stand for?? Variable Rate Oiler, or something to that affect?? Thanks<br /><br />Eric

 

[ob]

Re: 1995 115 HP Evinrude Problems (Updated with NEW problems)

Look for compression readings of 100 psi + and within 10% of each other.<br /><br />An outboard waterpump,and especially this one should be replaced at least every two seasons and also replace the T/stat assys.Sounds like it was tested on last outing.<br /><br />Variable Ratio Oiling