1996 4.3 Mercruiser water in my oil? Hoping not!

[Grub54891]

^^ that is a vent for bringing fresh air to the engine area. Or exhaust from the bilge blower. Its not hooked directly to the motor. So no, its not the source of the water in the oil.

 

[brunolund]

i have the exact boat you do. same motor too. i actually bought it cheap years ago because of the issue you’re having. i would wager your block is cracked in the lifter valley, under the intake. hopefully i’m wrong, but that’s how mine was. do the pressure tests first, then listen for the leak.

i ended up using a motor from a jimmy with a few modifications and used all the marine hardware and accessories. if you have any questions about the boat, i’m pretty familiar with it now!! it’s an awesome boat.

if you’re interested, i’m in the process of a complete rebuild of my boat, and there are a bunch of pics on my posts about it.

 

[brunolund]

yours looks to be in great shape.

 

[chuckndiscs]

i have the exact boat you do. same motor too. i actually bought it cheap years ago because of the issue you’re having. i would wager your block is cracked in the lifter valley, under the intake. hopefully i’m wrong, but that’s how mine was. do the pressure tests first, then listen for the leak.

i ended up using a motor from a jimmy with a few modifications and used all the marine hardware and accessories. if you have any questions about the boat, i’m pretty familiar with it now!! it’s an awesome boat.

if you’re interested, i’m in the process of a complete rebuild of my boat, and there are a bunch of pics on my posts about it.

Thanks Bruno!l for responding! I’ll keep you in mind when I have questions!

im tearing into it tomorrow. I hope your wrong to BUT I’m up to getting it fixed now. Absolutely love the boat, just need to get the motor up to snuff! I have a heated garage so looks like I might have a winter project.

I’ve got a separate starter problem first. Then on to compression and pressure checks

 

[chuckndiscs]

Pulled the starter and more problems are showing up.

Cracked starter mount!! Pictures will show. I don’t think I cracked them, didn’t hammer it or anything to get it loose but I’m positive I finished the job. Yuk!

anyway to fix this? Note: I might need a new block depending on the forthcoming pressure checks (thanks for the help on that!). But if it is just leaky head gasket or such am I now at a place that will force me to look for a replacement block anyways??

im starting to think I need to reticle this thread to 4.3 headache!

Thanks for all help already and forthcoming. Will be pressure testing this weekend.

 

[chuckndiscs]

Ok, from other posts I’m reading i might just be at the new block spot now! This boat! I tell ya!!

 

[Boater31]

I can't help with the starter but since that a 96 isn't that when batwings were installed. What kind of exhaust do you have, 1 piece or 2 piece. If it's the 1 piece get rid of them, countless post of them failing and adding water to engine, including mine.

 

[cliffblue]

I read all the way through and B31 asked my question. I have a 2001 4.3 that came with 1 pc exhaust manifolds that ran great but would drain chocolate milk oil at the end of summer. To cut to the chase, I tried to test the manifolds and didn’t see any leaks so I pulled the heads and had them checked and valves done. I couldn’t find any evidence of gasket leaks either. I ordered OEM 2 pc manifolds and haven’t had cloudy oil since. Good luck

 

[chuckndiscs]

I can't help with the starter but since that a 96 isn't that when batwings were installed. What kind of exhaust do you have, 1 piece or 2 piece. If it's the 1 piece get rid of them, countless post of them failing and adding water to engine, including mine.

Ill have to take a look tonight and see. I guess that is another hope but at this point I am honestly leaning towards ordering up a reman engine from rapido marine in FL. Seems to me I can get a motor I know the history of from day 1 for reasonable $. Then I just have to figure out how to get the old one out and new one in during the winter :cold:

Otherwise they sell the block along with the heads for about a 1/3 of the cost for the whole engine. I think that would be ok too and I could dissassemble and reassemble it over the winter... Issue then is I still have potential breakdown parts in play.

Also - wondering, for a few hundred $'s more I could upgrade, if you will, to a newer year motor. I am assuming the alpha one outdrive should bolt right up and I might have to adjust some linkages, but otherwise it should drop in...up to a 2006. I might be mistaken there...

 

[chuckndiscs]

I can't help with the starter but since that a 96 isn't that when batwings were installed. What kind of exhaust do you have, 1 piece or 2 piece. If it's the 1 piece get rid of them, countless post of them failing and adding water to engine, including mine.

I think mine are 2 piece?

 

[Grub54891]

I think mine are 2 piece?

Yup.

 

[chuckndiscs]

Yup.

Thanks! Nice to know no bat wings.

changed the outdrive oil tonight as I mulled over what to do.... outdrive oil looked brand new!

...the comfort of getting a new engine vs a new block and heads and then all my old parts transferred over is sooo tempting! Just would have to figure out how to lift out the old and new the in before the snow flies here in MN!

 

[chuckndiscs]

So I’m trying to pressure test my cooling system and I cannot get air pressure to build up. I plugged the manifold tubes and the tube to the water pump. I unhooked water in (from transom) before power steering cooling coupler and hooked up my air supply. I soap water tested my connections and plugs and it seems good. The block water drain plugs are closed. Water is drained. have put through a ton of air and it never builds up pressure. If I take off the air in, nothing escapes so confirmed no built pressure.

Maybe I have something wrong or missing something?

please see pics.

 

[Rick Stephens]

Hook the big hose back up to the circulating pump. That open water pump is allowing your motor to be open to the world. Only plug the two hoses going to the manifolds and the inlet line

 

[chuckndiscs]

Hook the big hose back up to the circulating pump. That open water pump is allowing your motor to be open to the world. Only plug the two hoses going to the manifolds and the inlet line

Thanks! I’ll give it a whirl tomorrow.


next question. Found a 1996 4.3 locally for sale. Complete, already taken out. Was rebuilt in 2011 as the block cracked. Seller wants $2500 for it.

if I do a compression test and a cooling test (like I’m doing on my 4.3), would that be a reasonable test to ensure it’s ok? Or do I really need to do a leak down (I’d have to buy the tools to do so) test? Seller said the boat was taking on water and the transom was bad so he’s parting it out to make back some cash...

Thinking ahead but my starter mount broke off so what I’m testing now is really to find out if the block is cracked and then I know the other parts might be ok...anyway I cut it now I’m looking at a block I’m sure.

 

[Scott Danforth]

visit your local engine machine shop, I bet you can get a re-maned motor for less than $2500

 

[chuckndiscs]

Running the risk of posting about an io for sale!

i can get this motor installed in my boat for $6k. Motor is $3500. 4.3 2002. the only issue I see are the batwing exhaust manifolds! How serious of an issue is this really? Is this over priced at $3500 /$6k installed by a marine full shop?

it also doesn’t come with a warranty...

what other issues might there be going from a 96 to a 2002? It’s a 2barrel carb so 180HP is what I was told. Really??


Any personal opinion on this swap I’d appreciate it! It’s easiest, done by a marine shop, and the motor was looked over by the shop. It would make my winter easy.

thanks for any and all advice, opinion, cautions!

chuck


link way down here so nobody sees it - https://youtu.be/qhIvb-CAG7g

 

[Rick Stephens]

The labor is a total complete ripoff. I don't do it for a living and I could do the job in half a day. Batwings gotta go. 2 BBL is 190 HP at prop.

 

[chuckndiscs]

The labor is a total complete ripoff. And batwings gotta go.

Thank you. Truly appreciate! They quoted me $1800. So I was over by $700 (Its what I tell the admiral and then look like a hero). So the labor was 15 hours...

It's ease of drop it off and take it home with a working motor. I know that but I am a newb at this and although I want to learn I dont know if I have it in me.

I do appreciate the input! I did start looking for machine shops around MN and this is one of the first pop ups I got. I asked about the batwings and they said they havent heard for many issues and the shop says 23 years in the business. I am going to go with you folks's insight but its all worth taking in as I make a decision.

Keep it coming.

 

[nola mike]

If that's a turn key motor it isn't a horrible price, but no way I'd do that without a warranty. Actually, I thought this was a reman. For a used motor that's very high. If it's turn key, that labor is still way high. If it isn't turn key, then the labor isn't as bad, since they'll need to swap things over (are you using anything from your engine?). But they could still do that pretty easily in a day if they're working. A reman from michigan motorz is $2400, and you could get it with vortec heads, and upgrade to a 4bbl carb to get you another 50 hp. Plus a warranty. You could also get the motor, swap the components yourself and have them pull and replace. Didn't we decide you didn't have batwing manifolds? Did you ever figure out if you actually have a cracked block? Depends on how much you value the ease of drop off/pick up I guess. Most people on here tolerate, if not enjoy wrenching on their boats.