1996 Bayliner 2050 LS 5.7L 40th Anniversary Restore

[sjohnson44]

Re: 1996 Bayliner 2050 LS 5.7L 40th Anniversary Restore

fng, I cant wait to see what other surprises this project has for me.
I had that idea about tying off to a tree limb at first but my cousin has a forklift and he said if that cant get it out then he has a track-hoe that will. lol
Today I will be getting everything rdy for the removal tommorrow. As I understand, its just 4 bolts, disconnect wiring harness and fuel lines and out it comes.

If I have some free time at work tonight, I am going to try to build a roll around cart for the engine just from scrap parts we have laying around. That way, I can transport the engine from his shop to my house and then once its fixed/rebuilt whatever comes first, it will go on the cart until its ready to be put back in the boat.

I was up from 12pm wednesday till 12pm thursday so I didnt get anything done. I know its a long time, but half of that time was spent staying up all night looking at boat parts and researching. Just got home from work and will be going to sleep. When I wake up, the outdrive is coming off.

 

[sjohnson44]

Re: 1996 Bayliner 2050 LS 5.7L 40th Anniversary Restore

Ok, up bright and early today at 3:00pm. lol

I got the outdrive off after some convincing and found another surprise!

At one point in time, a U Joint went out on this thing. The cast iron ring around the gimbal bearing and the outdrive look beat to hell, and naturally the U joints are new and I found needle bearings laying around in the bellow. So stands to reason who ever had been in there had no idea what they were doing or just didnt care. Of course Im not anyone to talk, as this is the first time I have ever done this but its all thanks to the people of iboats. I'll go ahead and say thank you friscoboater (Jay), I was running back and forth from his youtube channel to back out to the boat. Thank you for all your effort and time you put into those DIY videos!

After letting the outdrive down while still on the boat, oil started running out of the raw water intake.
Sometime this weekend I will be taking it apart and see whats going on in there. I found the shift cable also looks new, however the shift bellow is missing completely. Like no attempt what-so-ever to even put one on. The trim sensors wires are broke on one side, and the other side has been cut.

Anyways, on to the pics!

Here you can see where the cast iron ring is busted up.

New UJoints and busted ring

New shift cable

The oil coming out of the raw water intake

 

[sjohnson44]

Re: 1996 Bayliner 2050 LS 5.7L 40th Anniversary Restore

The trim rams are leaking, lots of milk shake and air came out.

I wanted to ask what this tube exactly was. I suppose its a breather tube, but I have seen where some units have a container that monitors oil level in the outdrive. I however dont have said container. Could this just be a breather tube?

Thats all I have for today, going to work in a half hour and then tommorrow when I get off work the engine will be coming out. Got to go get some measurements of the motor mounts so I can build the roll around cart for it tnight if Im not too busy.

 

[esnoll]

Re: 1996 Bayliner 2050 LS 5.7L 40th Anniversary Restore

We have the exact same boat. When you are done restoring it , you'll love it! Great lake boat. Low freeboard, light weight, plenty of grunt with the 350. We are just completing our 11th year with it.

 

[produceguy]

Re: 1996 Bayliner 2050 LS 5.7L 40th Anniversary Restore

Man, that trim selinder looks like it was dragged on the asphalt for awhile. LOL, I have a alpha 1 gen 1 without that tube but that tube might go to your speedo hook up but I,m not sure.
The po did a fine job on the sealent, LOL. There shouldn't be any sealent between the two halfs,just a gasket.
Keep up the good fight. Still think you got a nice find their.

 

[superpop]

Re: 1996 Bayliner 2050 LS 5.7L 40th Anniversary Restore

Dude, that boat is a parts boat. Murphy is doing an awesome job of telling you to stop now and cut your losses. Everything that could be wrong with that boat, is wrong. Unless the motor shows great compression and the manifolds look good, you are going to spend thousands of dollars on parts alone, never mind the labor. You could save yourself a lot of time and aggravation by selling the parts for what you have into it, and taking the money you are going to spend fixing this one, and going out and finding something that is in running condition with no rot. If the boat was basically abused as it would appear is was just looking at the pics, you will discover all kinds of gremlins once you get it running, electrical, interior HW etc.... Just sayin.

 

[79SRV195]

Re: 1996 Bayliner 2050 LS 5.7L 40th Anniversary Restore

I wanted to ask what this tube exactly was. I suppose its a breather tube, but I have seen where some units have a container that monitors oil level in the outdrive. I however dont have said container. Could this just be a breather tube?

That looks like the line that hooks to the lower unit for your speedo. Should connect to a fitting on the lower unit.

 

[sjohnson44]

Re: 1996 Bayliner 2050 LS 5.7L 40th Anniversary Restore

Cool I wasnt sure what that was for.

superpop, murphy has put up billboard signs to tell me to stop and I know I must come off as an idiot for wanting to fix the boat however I enjoy doing this stuff and regardless how much money it takes I will do it. I know its very similar to either building a boat for X amount when you can buy one for X amount.
And whatever I buy its going to be around the same year model or older, I would then still have to worry about the floors being rotten or being rotten later.
The motor might be good in whatever else I buy, but it wont have a V8. Unless I bump my budget up to around 10,000. Im getting marriend and buying a house soon, I cant swing that. So its all just a matter of situation not necessarily a matter of money.

Anyways, I got the motor out of the boat yesterday and today I have been working on trying to get it turned over. I got the manifolds off and got that broken bolt out of the block, then filled everything with marvel mystery oil this morning. Just now I tried to turn her over and shes locked up. I have found some long blocks but prices vary tremendously between models. Something else that interests me is they show the 95 models as just a 350 and the 96 models as vortecs. Some also have vortec heads, prices vary between them from $200-$1000

So, now I can put the motor aside and start working on the interior, getting the seats out and carpet. Will post pics later.

 

[Struc]

Re: 1996 Bayliner 2050 LS 5.7L 40th Anniversary Restore

You'll probably find one of these in the engine:

 

[fngboater]

Re: 1996 Bayliner 2050 LS 5.7L 40th Anniversary Restore

man that really sucks about the motor being locked up. try putting some cocacola in the spark plug holes to free up those rings lol. probably not the problem though. Well i guess youll find out what it is when you tear into it.
speakin of murphy...today i had some of that too (broke a bolt on the outdrive water pump housing). see it happens to everybody.

 

[sjohnson44]

Re: 1996 Bayliner 2050 LS 5.7L 40th Anniversary Restore

struc, although it probably has a bent rod im going to hope for the best and hope that its just rusted up. Some of the spark plugs I took out had some rust on them. I have the engine in my little man cave outside, so no when I am off work I can work all night.

fng, that sucks man, if you dont have any left handed drill bits then get some. I used my set today to get that broken starter bolt out. Most of the time you wont even have to drill into them to get them to back out. The tips of the bit will grab on some of the jagged broken edges and it will back right out. If you have a harbor freight around, go pick up a set, they are $8.99 for a 13 pc set.

Here are the pics I took today.

 

[sjohnson44]

Re: 1996 Bayliner 2050 LS 5.7L 40th Anniversary Restore

Rockers and rods are clean

Inside of intake all rusted up.

I was awfully proud of my little stand me and friend built, considering the only measurment I took was how wide the bilge area was. Just wanted to share lol

Heads and intake are coming off in the morning, then I will attempt to transfer this motor to a regular motor stand so I can roll it all around and take the oil pan off.

More pics tommorrow

 

[sjohnson44]

Re: 1996 Bayliner 2050 LS 5.7L 40th Anniversary Restore

Got one of the heads off and the valves and cylinders are rusted. Havnt found any cracks yet but Im still crossing my fingers. Letting the water drain right now so I can get the other head off.

 

[sjohnson44]

Re: 1996 Bayliner 2050 LS 5.7L 40th Anniversary Restore

Nothing that a good acid bath cant fix

 

[sjohnson44]

Re: 1996 Bayliner 2050 LS 5.7L 40th Anniversary Restore

Well this is about as far Im going to go on the motor today. Got it all tore down, I need to rent a harmonic balancer puller so I can get timing gear and cam out.
Then Ill try to get those pistons out if at all possible. Everything on the bottom end looks great IMO. Except for some sludge and some rust. Once I get everything out of the block and labeled it will all be sent to the machine shop to get looked at and cleaned up. See if the block is indeed cracked. It probably is but, I will feel a lot better about buying a new long block if this one is fubar.

anyways, heres the pics if anyone is still following me.

 

[fngboater]

Re: 1996 Bayliner 2050 LS 5.7L 40th Anniversary Restore

yep you definately had water sitting in the intake and cylinders but like you said the underside doesnt look half bad. man that roll around cart is awsome. now when you get your engine back together you can bolt it to the cart and run it.

 

[Struc]

Re: 1996 Bayliner 2050 LS 5.7L 40th Anniversary Restore

I think you will spend more trying to rebuild that bottom end & heads than you would just buying a longblock. Consider a complete valve job, machine work for boring the cylinders, new pistons, new bearings, cleaning up that intake manifold, etc. All that besides the hot tanking of parts, cleaning up, checking for cracks, painting, assembly.

Spending ~$1300-$1500 on a long block doesn't seem like too bad of an idea regardless of the condition of the block.

Just a thought...

 

[sjohnson44]

Re: 1996 Bayliner 2050 LS 5.7L 40th Anniversary Restore

I was also thinking about just buying a long block and be done with it. I was going to drop it off at the machine shop and get them to give me an estimate on everything and then go from there. Regardless, as you said, its probably worth just buying a long block.
I just remember when I rebuilt a 305 in my last truck, I only spent $600 on parts and rebuilt it myself. I was just going along with that thinking that it may not cost me that much. Although, it wasnt rusted up but it had carbon deposits out its ears. Everything will swap with car parts, except the water pump and cam, and maybe the gaskets.

Fng, glad you like the cart I was afraid it wasnt going to fit and then having to watch it ride home in a trailer bouncing around i was saying "please dont break please dont break" lol but it made it home and since I got all of the heavy parts off it rolls around like a dream. definately going to be its home after i get it rebuilt/buy new one.

Anyways, I figured everyone was getting tired of looking at the motor, since theres not much else to look at on it. So I got around to taking the carpet and seats out before it got dark on me. Wasnt really all that surprised, but Im going to see what all I can get demo'd out tommorrow.

 

[sjohnson44]

Re: 1996 Bayliner 2050 LS 5.7L 40th Anniversary Restore

 

[sjohnson44]

Re: 1996 Bayliner 2050 LS 5.7L 40th Anniversary Restore

Its been awhile since I updated but Ive been getting the floor out of the boat. Didn't take any pics but tommorrow Ill get some of what Ive done so far.

At this point Im only looking at replacing two small bulkheads. The stringers are solid, no rot at all, so those are staying. I just got the gimbal off and inspected the transom. I drilled some holes all around the key hole and around the drain and all over it and so far no rot. All the shavings were a nice dry yellowish tan color. I was really excited about that lol Hopefully that will work out in my favor.

The floor is 90% out, all is left is some minor cutting and some grinding. I left the floor in around the bilge because it was solid and truth-be-told, only about 20% of the floor was rotten. In front of the seats and in between and that was it really. I hated to have to cut out the rest but I am going to install bucket seats instead of the back to backs so it had to go.

All of the wet foam is out. While I was getting it out, I found some white plastic under the foam. I didnt really understand why it was put in there, but it almost looks like it had a purpose. Anyone have any ideas? It was only in the bulk heads from the front of the gas tank to the back.

Motor is getting worked on at engine shop. They are going to bore it to a 355 and rework the heads. Surface grind, grind the crank, vatted and fluxed, and order a master kit for the motor. Looking at ~$800 for the whole shooting match and that is with me putting it all together. Im torn between getting them to check the manifolds and if they are ok, then running them OR ordering some aluminum ones. Maybe someone can chime in on what would be better.

As I said, I got the gimbal off and in the pics I posted previously you could see where the cast iron ring in the gimbal was all beat up. Well it looks alot worse now that I got the bellows off. I havnt torn into it real good, but can someone tell me if that ring can be replaced or do I need a whole new outer gimbal? I wasnt sure if it was pressed in or casted that way. I'll post pics of it tommorrow.

More details coming tommorrow with pics.