1996 Volvo Penta 5L- Electrical issue

Kevin Knuth

Cadet
Joined
Jun 17, 2018
Messages
22
Here is an udpate: I am NOT a mechanic. My boat has a slave solenoid. I replaced it. Boat started and ran at the dock for 30 minutes with no issues. Went back a little later, started fine, left the dock and it died about 30 yards out. Starter and battery were hot. I heard a noise this time- and I think the bendix was engaged and that was part of my problem.

To be certain, I replaced the starter. Turn the key and the motor moves in little "jumps" but that is it. And then the battery is smoking again.

Thoughts? Suggestions??

Kevin
 
Joined
Jun 29, 2018
Messages
2
The thing you circled in the photo is a test port for the fuel injection EEC & MAP sensor. You have a short somewhere that should be blowing your breakers but for some reason isn't. Check the leads around the beakers for hot wires or trace where your smoking wires go, disconnect and run the boat on the trailer. Perhaps try disconnecting items like power trim and see if you can get the engine to run. If you had a ground issue it would die without getting hot & would run crappy in the higher rpms. The old school way is to tease the positive lead to the battery & feel wires to see what's hot. Something is failing intermittently. Keep at it, you got this!
 

Kevin Knuth

Cadet
Joined
Jun 17, 2018
Messages
22
I charged the battery back up...turned the key and the boat will run for about 30-40 seconds...ROUGH....sounds like the starter is staying engaged. and the "jumps" I mentioned earlier? I wonder if it is really going into neutral or not.
 

Kevin Knuth

Cadet
Joined
Jun 17, 2018
Messages
22
When in doubt, start over. Don S has posted instructions in the past that include this "Hook up your test light again with the clip on a good ground. Now touch terminal C of the slave solenoid with your test light and have your helper turn the key to the start position again. The light should light up? If it did, touch your test light on terminal A, if it lights, hook your test light lead to it, and put the probe on terminal D (the ground) if it doesn't light, then you have a bad ground for the slave solenoid and without that ground the slave solenoid will not work."

My C and A light up with no key in the ignition. What does that mean??
 

Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,442
If the starter is staying engaged with the key in the "run" position you either have a bad key switch or a bad slave relay
pull the relay , turn the key to "run/on" , jump the starter solenoid and test run it.
In post 19 all the Red wires will have constant power
 

Kevin Knuth

Cadet
Joined
Jun 17, 2018
Messages
22
I tested the switch this morning using this method I found in another forum-
[FONT=Verdana, Arial]Remove all the wires from the solenoid so there is no electric connected to it. Using a multimeter, check for continuity between the two large lugs of the solenoid. There should be no continuity, or an open circuit when the solenoid is not energized. If the circuit is closed, or there is continuity, then the solenoid is bad.[/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana, Arial]If the circuit is open, then you can check the key switch. Hook up the two small wires on the solenoid, do not reconnect the heavy gauge cables, turn on the battery switch. With the key in the off position, check again for continuity between the large lugs. With the key off there should be no continuity, or an open circuit. If there is continuity then the key switch is energizing the solenoid in the off position and is bad.[/FONT]


They both tested fine. I turned the key and it started- but this is the noise I get (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWom-xs2lnE) aside from the squealing belt- there is a rough knocking sound. If I let the boat run a little longer it will shut itself off. Attempts to restart after that leave me with a smoking battery.

Remember- this ran at the dock for nearly 30 minutes yesterday and was FINE.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
43,173
The squealing sounds like a belt slipping

Put a voltmeter on the battery when its running and see if you have no more then 14.5V
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
43,173
With the bat overheating, and the belt squeal I'm leaning toward an alternator issue currently, but need some testing to narrow it down
 
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