1997 Force 120HP Top Carb "Spitting Fuel"

Rick.Clark

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Jun 20, 2015
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I had my '97 out fishing the other day, and it wasn't wanting to idle very well. I decided to change the spark plugs when I got home, as they hadn't been changed in quite some time. I took the boat out for a test run afterwords, and it would not idle at all. I figured one of the boots must be loose or something so I headed in and decided I would check it out at home.

I found that I had spark on all 4 cylinders, and the boat would run when it was up on high idle. When I would pull the throttle back it would die before it got there. I started looking around and noticed that the top carb had gas dripping out of it when it was running. I don't know how long it has been doing this, but the top 2 spark plugs were wet.

I decided to pull the carb apart and look for something that might be plugged. The carb looked very clean inside, so I replaced the needle, a few new seals and it went back together. It still has the same problem it did before. It is dumping quite a bit of fuel into the motor, probably explaining why it will run at higher RPM but stalls out when i back off the throttle. I have added a link to the youtube video I took this morning.

https://youtu.be/fnJec7PLj9M

Any and all ideas are appreciated!
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
18,183
Welcome.
Take the carb off and see if the reeds are ok.
The "dirt" in a carb can be so small you might not see it.
Worked on a 96 120 and I cleaned the top carb 3 times before it worked.
And I never did see anything in it.????

Is it spitting at higher speed?

Top post is a linc to a Link and sinc. It help set the carbs.

Do a compression test and post the results.
 

Rick.Clark

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Jun 20, 2015
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Sounds like a plan! I will check the reeds and make sure they are not broken/ cracked/ bent. I'll also do a compression test on it!

What I find weird is I didn't have this problem as much before I replaced the spark plugs? Which doesn't make any sense to me... Might just be a weird coincidence.
 

Jiggz

Captain
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Oct 23, 2009
Messages
3,909
We've had too many threads of this kind on later 120's and most of them were due to bad reeds. Follow Jerry's lead and you would be golden. And yes, with that kind of blowback you definitely have bad reeds.
 
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Rick.Clark

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Jun 20, 2015
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Well, I got the compression test done today. 120, 130, 145, 145.

I pulled the top carb again and found two broken reeds! So now I need to do some reading, I am pretty handy, but I have never tuned before so I need to find out what all is involved before I decide to tear into it or take it to the shop.

Is the Seloc repair manual the best one to get?

Thanks for the help!
 

batman99

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 13, 2012
Messages
393
No manual needed. They provide basic instructions (with pictures) with their product. Their pictures are very informative

For me, I removed both carbs, removed both reed cages and only changed (replaced) the leafs in 1 cage at a time - using other cage as assembled example. After the leafs changed on the 1st cage, I then changed the leafs on the other cage. Remember to use thread lock (lock tight ??) glue on its little screw threads. No worries, task sounds more complex than it is. I'd say a rating of 2 - if 10 was most difficult. If stuck, you can always email or call CCMS company for help as well.

Forgot to mention... Their Reed Leaf Package is for 2 x carbs (re: for entire engine). Best to change all leafs - so they are the same materials (for balanced intake flow for entire engine as well).

Hope this helps.
 
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Jiggz

Captain
Joined
Oct 23, 2009
Messages
3,909
If you are pretty handy replacing reed peteals is really very simple. You will need to replace the intake adapter gaskets unless you were able to save it. But all you need is to remove the top carb's air cover, choke mechanism, disconnect the throttle tie bar, disconnect fuel hose, dismount carb. Next remove the intake adapter and thereafter will be access to the V-blocks where the reed petals are located. The thing to remember is to use loctite thread sealant for every screw mounted on the V-block and reed petals. And yes, it is always recommended to replace in pair at the very least, but if you can afford it replace all reeds at the same time.
 

nnk_boater

Cadet
Joined
Sep 2, 2009
Messages
22
We've had too many threads of this kind on later 120's and most of them were due to bad reeds. Follow Jerry's lead and you would be golden. And yes, with that kind of blowback you definitely have bad reeds.

I've got a '97 120hp with the original reeds. I just did a complete maintenance this past winter chasing a loss of power problem that I resolved with the help of this forum. Are my reeds going to break and therefore, I should do some preventative maintenance and replace them before they break or just leave well enough alone? I'd like to think that if it ain't broke, I shouldn't fix it.
 

Jiggz

Captain
Joined
Oct 23, 2009
Messages
3,909
Unless you have money burning in your pocket, leave them on until a sign or problem indicates or points to reeds. Usually, the first symptom is misfiring, loss of power and most obvious spitting of fuel from the carbs while idling. Make sure you review the video attached to this thread as it is a very good example of a bad reed. The OP was smart enough to provide the video on his very first post, hence got a quick resolution to his problem in just a couple of responses. I wish all posters are like this, using technology for a better purpose.
 

Rick.Clark

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Joined
Jun 20, 2015
Messages
5
I have ordered the reeds, decided to give the local guy a try for the gaskets and got the "I will have them here Wednesday for you!" (at twice the cost of online, but I wanted to support the small business). Today I went to pick them up and was told that they are behind and they "should" be here Friday now. So I hopefully I will have all the parts to do it this weekend! Thanks for your help gentlemen! If my hands don't get to greasy to want to touch my phone, I'll try to take some pictures to post up for others reference.
 
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