1998 johnson 3 cylinder 35 hp

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JoshKeller84

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Re: 1998 johnson 3 cylinder 35 hp

since i got my tach hooked up the last run, id like to verify everything. setting 6 (for 12 pole) correct? 1150 - 1200 rpm in barrel at idle, 850 in gear - engine not completely warmed up sound about right?
 

hidef

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Re: 1998 johnson 3 cylinder 35 hp

She is idling a little fast it should idle around 700 in gear when fully warmed up. Your tach setting is correct. If you goto a smaller prop a 14" aluminum would give you what you are looking for. If you want stainless you should go to a 13 as the stainless props have more cupping which improves effiency.
 

JoshKeller84

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Re: 1998 johnson 3 cylinder 35 hp

I'd like to verify the accuracy of my tach - will hooking up the temp sensor and causing the motor to go into slow mode and comparing that 2500 rpm Max to the tach reading be fairly accurate?
 

boobie

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Re: 1998 johnson 3 cylinder 35 hp

The only way to check a tach is with a shop tach or another one.
 

JoshKeller84

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Re: 1998 johnson 3 cylinder 35 hp

Think my tach may be bad. Took it out again today, and it said I was idleing at 1500 rpm, planing out at 5000 rpm and running at 7000 rpm. Checked all connections while running and made sure it was on setting 6. Nothing felt different running wise. Bad tach?
 

boobie

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Re: 1998 johnson 3 cylinder 35 hp

See if you can borrow or rent a tach from a dealer and try that.
 

JoshKeller84

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Re: 1998 johnson 3 cylinder 35 hp

unfortunately, no real marine shops around here except one - and they dont rent or borrow anything - hell they dont really even sell at a fair price. :lol:

hell, it said i was idling at 4500 rpm with the fast idle lever up. just seems weird that it worked last weekend.
 

JoshKeller84

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Re: 1998 johnson 3 cylinder 35 hp

Picked up a new tach. Idle it does 1100 rpm and 900 iin gear. I hook up the faulty temp sensor and it immediately drops down to 900 and 750 in gear. I assume the temp switch not hooked up causes it to remain in quick start mode?
 

hidef

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Re: 1998 johnson 3 cylinder 35 hp

Yes I believe it does. Idle in forward should be between 700 and 800 RPM depending on the prop with the sensor hooked up. So 750 is not bad at all.
 

JoshKeller84

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Re: 1998 johnson 3 cylinder 35 hp

Excellent. Will order a new sensor this winter. Turning 5750 rpm trimmed with passenger with a 15p aluminum prop. If I wish to go stainless would 14p be the correct choice?
 

JoshKeller84

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Re: 1998 johnson 3 cylinder 35 hp

also, this is the 5th trip on these plugs - look to be running properly?

20131102_143329.jpg
 

hidef

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Re: 1998 johnson 3 cylinder 35 hp

You could also go with a 15P stainless which would drop your RPMs down to 5450 with the same load. A 14 P stainless would keep your RPMs about the same. I would stick with what you got because I doubt you will see that much of a performance gain.

Hard to really tell from the photo but I think the spark plug looks okay.
 

JoshKeller84

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Re: 1998 johnson 3 cylinder 35 hp

sorry to ask so many questions, trying to get this set up good. im looking at getting a stainless prop. i love the hole shot with a 15p aluminum, and shes turning 5775 rpm. if i switch to a 15p stainless, will i lose hole shot, or will it stay relatively the same? i realize top end rpm may fall 200 or so
 

hidef

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Re: 1998 johnson 3 cylinder 35 hp

I would stick with the 15p aluminum. You are right in the sweet spot for your engine when you look at the RPMs vs prop pitch. Going to a steel wheel wheel you might gain a little on the top end speed but I don't believe it will be enough to really matter. As for the hole shot I don't think it will be as good as you have now. Plus if you hit a rock with an aluminum prop the prop will absorb the damage where a stainless prop will transmit more of the shock to the gear case.
 

JoshKeller84

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Re: 1998 johnson 3 cylinder 35 hp

i saw on the parts list that they recommend a 4 blade prop with this motor. why is this? would be 14 4 blade be approx the same rpm at the 15 3 blade? or perhaps at 5775 rpm with the 15p, a 16p 4 blade would be better? im definitely needing a back up prop, or a main prop and use the 15 for a backup, just confused to which will be the best choice
 
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hidef

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Re: 1998 johnson 3 cylinder 35 hp

The standard prop was 16p 4 blade from the factory. Your engine redline is 5800 RPM if you are running that empty you are good. My engine turns 6000 at full throttle. I use a 15p 3 blade aluminum for my primary prop and a 14P 3 blade for my backup / water skiing prop. The smaller prop is a little better out of the hole.
 

phillnjack2

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Re: 1998 johnson 3 cylinder 35 hp

I would opt for 15p stainless as best prop for top speed without engine being under too much work..
the stainless will give better holeshot and better top end due to not flexing like the cheap nasty ali props.
if your at the top of the range with a 15 ali then youl be around the same maybe a touch more with the stainless once she gets going.
the blades are thinner and will be more precise.

BUT if you plan on running in shallows or near logs where the prop might hit then get ali and stay with it.
the gearbox on your engine would probably get damaged if using stainless as the prop will not bend like an ali, and this needs to be considered unless using prop guards !!!!!
props are cheaper than gearbox casings !!!!!!!

regarding blades, a 15p prop is a 15 pitch prop never mind how many blades.
your not running a heavy ski boat so the 4 or 3 blade debate is not going to be making any noticeable difference.

if you only want flat out then get jack plate and run it high with a 19 pitch surface prop !!!!!!!
you need to work out what you want the boat to do, but try to stay as close to maximum revs as possible with your NORMAL load.
this will then tell you what is best size prop for your engine / boat set up.

you will lose at least 3mph with the engine 3 inches too low, get it up , the lowest it should ever be is level with bottom of the hull.
a normal prop will be ok with cav plate 1 inch above bottom, and that would give more speed top end.
3mph is a lot on a boat, especialy when the boat is around the 30 to 35mph rig.

just my opinions going on things ive done/found out myself

phill.
 

JoshKeller84

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Re: 1998 johnson 3 cylinder 35 hp

ordered a 15p solas new saturn since my aluminum is dinged up from a rock on the boat ramp (power loading). it picked up almost 1.5 mph on the top end and hole shot seemed almost the same. motor was turning 5600 - 5700. I believe i can pick up another 50 - 100 rpm by raising the motor when my transom riser comes in.

I'd like to replace the water pump this winter so I have a history of maintenance. I removed the intake grate, and the previous owner had welded the two shift rods together! :eek:

it looks like my best option right now would be to pull the powerhead, undo the shift linkage, and slide down the entire linkage and lower unit, then replace the shift shafts. looking by eyeball and the part schematics, it appears that the upper shift shaft doesnt directly connect to the powerhead. is this true? If thats the case, can i lift the powerhead a few inches, and undo the shift rod?
 
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