1998 Merc 7.4 MPI won't start

alldodge

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OK, thanks. Do you mean the positive jumper cable clamped to both terminals on the slave solenoid at once?

NO

The jumper cables are being used to add additional grounds only from engine block to the battery, don't use them any place else.

The slave terminals are the ones on top. One side is hot 12V and the other goes to the starter solenoid. When jumped across it should crank the motor without turning the key

Slave Relay 89-96054T.jpg
 

SDSeville

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NO

The jumper cables are being used to add additional grounds only from engine block to the battery, don't use them any place else.

The slave terminals are the ones on top. One side is hot 12V and the other goes to the starter solenoid. When jumped across it should crank the motor without turning the key



So jump them with a wire or screwdriver? ...or do I need to buy a remote starter?
 
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SDSeville

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OK, so I tried the jumper cables from negative on battery to a couple spots on the engine...and nothing but a loud click/clunk.

I jumped the 2 terminals on the solenoid and it spun but didn't turn the engine over. ...sounded like a pretty loud drill at high speed.

So, needs a new starter right?
 

alldodge

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Would agree, need a starter. Since it spun like a drill it either stripped a gear or something else broke.
 

SDSeville

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Thanks for the help. Doesn't look like it will be too easy. I heard some have had trouble snapping the bolts when trying to remove them.

Just so I understand, why didn't the starter spin when I turned the key like it did when I jumped the starter solenoid terminals?
 

alldodge

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Since it use to start and the issue was turning over slowly, then it would turn over but not start, and now would not turn over. Whit that we have temporally ruled out something being wrong with the motor, and finding rust on the starter helped. Just guessing but figured the starter was on its last legs and also not getting enough juice due to bad cables. Now that it gets better connections and the starter gives breaks or the flywheel teeth do.

It could still be you have a motor problem and the starter could not over come the resistance until something broke. If the motor never turned over we would have said pull the drive and pull the plugs to find out if the drive is dragging the motor, or there is water in the cylinders. Water in the cylinders usually stops the motor from turning over and that's it, it's locked up. The drive may be low on lube or have water in it and this causes a drag.

So right now were just guessing from what were seeing. After the starter spinning fast starts me thinking about other issues, but need to get the starter off to see what happened. Might also be more corrosion as to why the key would not spin the starter

If your up to it, you could pull plugs and have a look. If plugs were pulled you should be able to turn the motor over by had. If not able to turn by hand, then pull the drive and try again.

All depends on how much you want to try before changing the starter. With it being so hard to get to the starter, you might even want to pull the motor to replace, but probably at least want to remove the exhaust manifold on starboard side to give some room
 

QBhoy

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Hopefully not a flywheel issue. Defo worth taking starter off for a look at least...especially if you most likely just need to replace that.
 

SDSeville

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Thanks. I am going to order a starter tomorrow. While I am waiting for the starter, I will pull the plugs and see if it will turn by hand. Need to change the plugs anyway.
 

tpenfield

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Thanks. I am going to order a starter tomorrow. While I am waiting for the starter, I will pull the plugs and see if it will turn by hand. Need to change the plugs anyway.

Yes, I was thinking that you may have / had a hydro-lock situation . . . pulling the spark plugs may shed some light on that, if it be the case.
 

SDSeville

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Pulled the plugs yesterday and a couple had rust on the 1st thread. With all plugs removed, I could not turn the engine with a regular 3/8" ratchet on the crank pulley. Tried clockwise and wouldn't budge --- thought the ratchet would break if I turned an harder. Tried counter clockwise and the pulley bolt loosened.

The guy at the marina said to spray some WD or PB blaster in the spark plug hole and try with a breaker bar. Gonna give that a shot today.

I do not see this ending well.

Will post pics when the system allows.
 

alldodge

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Agree, there is trouble. Don't turn clockwise, and best not to use more then a 3/8 ratchet.

Pull the drive to verify its not the drive that's keeping the motor from turning
 

tpenfield

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If the engine is hard to turn, which it sounds like it is, make sure to use the proper tool on the crankshaft dampener to turn the engine, rather than the bolt directly, as you may snap the bolt off.
 

SDSeville

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Agree, there is trouble. Don't turn clockwise, and best not to use more then a 3/8 ratchet.

Pull the drive to verify its not the drive that's keeping the motor from turning

Can't pull the drive yet. She is permanently in the slip (no trailer) and have to have the marina pull her out and put in dry dock.
 

SDSeville

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If the engine is hard to turn, which it sounds like it is, make sure to use the proper tool on the crankshaft dampener to turn the engine, rather than the bolt directly, as you may snap the bolt off.

Yeah, feels like I am almost at the point of snapping the bolt off with the breaker bar. What is the correct tool for this? Do I remove the pulley and put a wrench of the crankshaft itself?
 

alldodge

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With all the plugs out, remove the belt from the seawater pump and grab the other belt and pulley, it should turn.

You should be able to turn it over counter clockwise with a ratchet as you were doing it before the bolt loosened. It did loosen so your locked up

In any case you need the boat out of the water now
 

SDSeville

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Here is what the plugs look like. I am going to take the belt off and try to turn counter clockwise after 24 hours of PB Blaster in the cylinders. If it doesn't budge, I will begin the process of determining what to do with the motor --
  • Crate motor (not likely), but if so, which one.
  • New or reman long block
  • Have mine rebuilt
I might save on the haul-out because it is about time for bottom paint again and that is included in the painting price.


20171120_081904_1511194798447_resized.jpg20171120_081917_1511194797558_resized.jpg
 

alldodge

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If it doesn't budge, I will begin the process of determining what to do with the motor --

Might be the motor, but could also be the drive. Plugs don't look good and do show some signs of water

All suggestions are good except the crate 7.4, it would be a reman. You can get a new crate 502
I would decide what to do once you know what happened
 

tpenfield

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I have seen new 7.4 crate engines listed on marine engines, inc.
 
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