2000 Johnson 70HP starts only when it wants to...

Joined
Aug 10, 2009
Messages
4
I have a Crest pontoon boat with a 2000 Johnson 70 HP 2-stroke oil-injected outboard. The thing is driving me a little insane. Please forgive the detailed post but hopefully someone will see a possible cause given all the information...

3 years ago, after about 50 hours of gentle family use over 5 years, the motor apparently broke a ring. The powerhead was replaced with a remanufactured unit by a reputable, if rather slow, outboard shop. The shop was so slow that I lost nearly an entire boating season but the boat was running fine once repaired. Now a couple of years later, the motor has about 20 hours on this powerhead.

After it sat for much of the summer, I went to the lake a couple of weeks ago to find the boat with a dead battery (I will call this battery #1). Fine, that happens. I had a fully charged spare with me ("battery #2") and I replaced the battery. With the battery changed, the boat cranked up fine but I needed to clean it up so I shut it off and did some clean up. A couple of hours later, I went to crank it again and nothing. I know the battery was well charged but it acted like it had a dead battery again (the first one really was completely dead)-- I could hear a rattle from the starter solenoid and the power tilt sounded like it was making relays hum, but that's about it. Yet checking the battery voltage on the now installed battery #2, it seemed fine.

Later that day (after battery #2 first started but then would not restart), the boat again cranked fine, still on #2 (and with no further recharging). I shut it off and it cranked fine a second time after that. I let the motor warm up and went for a cautious drive-- not wanting to stall and get stuck in open water. The boat ran fine but I noticed some odd gauge behavior. The tach would act normally for a while but then fall to zero (off and on) and the volt gauge would drop to zero or flutter from 10 to 16 volts then suddenly return to a nominal (13-14 volt) reading.

I got back to the dock and tied up, then shut off the motor-- after that, nothing again; no restart, yet the radio would play, and volt gauge would read around 12. Dock lights seemed bright and even with them operating (dock lights being the only real "load" accessories I have to kill a surface charge on the battery except for the tilt and I didn't think of that at that moment) the volt gauge held steady at 12. For good measure, I charged the battery (#2) for a while. Nothing but a rattle from the solenoid (as before I recharged) and the same lack of response from the motor tilt as before. Further, attaching it to a "smart" battery charger that will charge and the "best" rate up to 40 amps, the charge rate was very low as this charger typically is as it ramps a nearly 100% charged battery up to a complete charge. Adding a 90 amp boost to the battery had no effect on the boat's starting either.

The boat stays in a covered slip and the console is covered when the boat is not in use as well. The interior stays so dry that 4 or 5 months after pollen season there was still lots of bright yellow pollen in the carpet that I washed out when I cleaned it that day, but "just in case" I pulled apart the console. Wiring looked brand new. No moisture. No corrosion. Nothing was loose. (The wood inside is bone dry too.) Also no bugs, etc.

By now it was very late. I gave up and went home-- the boat is a 3 hour round trip from my house. I returned today, 2 weeks later. Battery #2 seemed charged still. Radio sounded fine. Gauge read 12 volts and so forth, but the tilt (both on the console and the motor) failed to produce more than a hum. Tried to start and the solenoid clicked & rattled. After 2 weeks there was clearly no surface charge on the battery-- this was not a false reading. Dock lights still came on brightly and didn't kill the voltage reading, etc.

On the off chance that #2 battery was just somehow out of whack, I went to Sam's club and bought yet another a new battery. (I was going to set up a pair on an isolator anyhow.) They go through batteries fast at Sam's, so it was very recent and well charged. I bought a big one (bigger than this motor calls for) and it was made 2 months ago (per the stickers on the battery). Call this "battery #3"

I went back and installed battery #3. The boat cranked immediately-- I mean I bumped it and it fired up in probably a second-- (MAYBE two). "Great-- so it was the battery", I thought. About when I assume the choke let off, the motor stalled. Bumped it again, it fired back up-- again, immediately. Let it run maybe 3 to 5 minutes. All seemed normal. Water coming out of the little place where it squirts and all, but then I noticed if I came out of idle, the tach would go flat to zero. The volt meter and gas gauge would flutter wildly at the same time. Turned it off. Went to restart. Nothing. Same hum from the power tilt, etc.

Sorry if that is excessive background but I wanted to be clear about what all has happened. So I pulled off the outboard cover. All the wiring looks like new. I did see where some mud wasps had tried to make a home under the flywheel somehow and that was removed but the rest was spotless. No oil, no dust-- nothing. Connectors all were all tight and clean. All the little spring retainers were on the connections, etc. I unplugged and re-plugged everything I could see. All was neat an clean and firmly attached.

Apart from the mud wasps (which again seemed to have caused no real damage), there were two things that seemed odd to me. On the top of the motor I found a female bullet connector with nothing in it. On the passenger (port) side of the motor (near the bottom), I found three wires together-- black, green, and tan with a stripe. the green wire goes to a MALE bullet connector. That is also not connected. It did occur to me that those two connectors would fit together but the wires are not long enough for them to have come apart.

Since the powerhead has been replaced once, I can't help but wonder if some wiring came loose or unplugged somewhow but if there is anything else to plug into it is well hidden. Clearly a male bullet connector seems a bit questionable just hanging there, but is that related to the problem?

I pondered this for a bit and realized that it could be that something was getting reset when the battery got disconnected (when I changed batteries) so I unhooked the battery (battery connections were also good) and then restored the connections. No change.

At this point, apart from wanting to find a wiring diagram (mainly to check on those bullet connectors), I'm stumped. There is nothing I hate more than intermittent problems like this where it seems like you fix a problem then it comes back over and over. I have no desire to THINK this is fixed and then end up stuck in the middle of the lake, especially with my family on board!

Any suggestions?
 

tashasdaddy

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Nov 11, 2005
Messages
51,019
Re: 2000 Johnson 70HP starts only when it wants to...

battery cables connection have to be clean and tight, not just finger tight.
90% of starter problems are bad connections. remove and clean both ends of the battery cables, so that they are shiney, also the cable from the solenoid to starter. check for nicks in the cables. and make sure the connectors are on the wire good. the cable tend to corrode from the inside out, if nicked, corroded wires, and connections, heat up and cause resistance to the follow of electricity, thus the starter doesn't get enough. you can also take jumper cable pos battery post to large post on starter. with a good connection, the engine should spin. then if the starter is good clean everything and retest. then trouble shoot solenoid. starters can be rebuit at a starter/alternator shop, much cheaper than a new one.

also have the battery load tested at the auto parts store, free, i've had new batteries go bad
 
Joined
Aug 10, 2009
Messages
4
Re: 2000 Johnson 70HP starts only when it wants to...

Thanks for the response. I'll have the batteries load tested but I'm 99% convinced it is not the batteries. In fact, this automatic charging unit I have claims to have that test and says the batteries pass but maybe they have a more sophisticated tester at the parts store...

Three battery failures (with all batteries from different sources) in such a short time seems really improbable, but more than that, once running, this business of the gauges intermittently stopping and then acting normally again, combined with an intermittent starting issue, and all symptoms remaining the same with multiple batteries-- this seems to be pointing much more at a different problem.

Stranger still, while the gauges flutter, the motor continues to run fine, yet the flutter is more likely and frequent when I take the RPM's up on the engine. If it were the main cables to the battery, it also seems like once the motor was running, the other problems would probably vanish. Also, it seems like the dock lights-- bright halogen head lamps (not navigation lamps) should flutter and flicker with the fluttering meters if this were the main cables.

I agree that it is acting a lot like bad wiring but I see not a single sign of corrosion or loose connection, not even on the main battery connections and the connections are VERY tight and also have been treated with a high-quality contact cleaner. I do a lot of electronic work with sensitive electronics and I use several products from Caig Labs-- I used their DeoxIT (D5) on all these connections but there has been no change before and after....

There is no physical indication of even light oxidation, let alone actual corrosion on anything. It is possible there is some crazy issue in a main cables that is entirely internal but that also seems unlikely. (I'll probably change the battery cables for good measure as well but I don't expect that to solve the problem.)

I may have given the wrong impression with the discussion of mud wasps before and their making a nest in there. That area of the lake is just overrun with mud wasps and some managed to make a small nest in there but apart from that, the engine and all wiring is absolutely pristine. The boat (and motor, obviously) have always been either garaged or in a covered slip-- the condition is like you'd find in a showroom.

What I want to do most is to find a schematic of this motor and see what that male bullet connection is for-- if it were rattling around and grounding out then un-grounding (for lack of a better term) that might be at least some of problem but I have no idea what that connection is supposed to do. Still, even when that connection was absolutely not touching anything, the starting problem remained...

The connector was well installed, but as water-tight as the rest of the connections are, this seems a suspect place for this type of connection. Hopefully the color code would still let me find it, assuming the connector is not factory installed. I have been playing phone tag with the mechanic who worked on the motor a couple of years ago but I seriously doubt he's going to recall if (or why) he would have installed such a connector over two years ago...

So where does a person go to get a schematic of a Johnson Outboard's wiring harness?
 

Zeeter

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 15, 2009
Messages
189
Re: 2000 Johnson 70HP starts only when it wants to...

Read what tasha wrote. Clean both ends of the battery cables. That means the engine end. You can do that or keep chasing. Something unplugged is not going to cause hit or miss starting. If you need a wiring diagram you have to buy a manual.
 
Joined
Aug 10, 2009
Messages
4
Re: 2000 Johnson 70HP starts only when it wants to...

Zeeter,

I appreciate your feedback. Maybe I was unclear-- BOTH ends of the cables looked like new on first inspection, and they have also been disconnected, cleaned and treated for any (invisible) oxidation or the like and FIRMLY reattached. They were firm and clean to start with and there was no change, so that was no surprise but it is an automatic thing to check when troubleshooting. I have cleaned up and changed countless bad battery cables over the years and these showed NONE of the signs of failing cables. If something is wrong with the cables, it is internal and VERY well hidden. I also had the batteries load tested at a local parts store as someone suggested before-- both of the last two batteries tested out fine.

Clearly I don't know what the cause of my problem is yet but a loose connection absolutely CAN cause a problem EXACTLY like this. I have seen it before more than once (though only in cars before). I can give you the details if you like. The key issue is a LOOSE connection, not a DIS-connection. A loose connector, an insulated wire with the core broken (more often with solid conductor wire but also with stranded wire) or a free-floating connector (like the bullet connector I described as it bounces around) can all cause problems like this. Also, understand that since the bullet connector was discovered to be disconnected, the motor has not started again. I did hear the solenoid & relays humming, but this wire could be related to a problem with the gauges only; there may be more than one issue going on.

It is a little ironic that you're emphatically telling me is HAS to be a poor connection but ONLY in the main cables. It could be anywhere and that, of corse, is why I'm so frustrated. It could even be in the console but that too seems really unlikely given the history and condition of the boat and console and the nature of the problem.

I would point out that so far it is much more likely to start cold or after a short run. So far it has not restarted after more than a very short run without cooling off for a long time (an hour or more). Incidentally, I think that points away from the main cables as they would be least effected by temperature change in the outboard as most of those cables (and especially the parts most prone to failure-- the parts that see water or sunlight at all) are outside the cowl while all the other wires are both more fragile and entirely subject to more dramatic heat and cooling from engine operation.

Maybe I do have a very well hidden battery connection issue, but if so, why would this effect the gauges once the engine cranks? I see the voltage rise from battery voltage to charging voltage. As long as power load does not exceed charging output, shouldn't I be reading charging voltage, not battery voltage? Especially with a very nearly fully charged battery that is not loading the charging system heavily to recharge?

I'll change the main cables first thing the next time I go and hopefully that will solve it, but again, I'm trying to think like a boy scout here and "be prepared" to try every probable cause the next time I burn at least half a day checking on this (as I mentioned, it is a three hour to the lake and back).

The main reason I posted here was I hoped that this was a "known issue" and that someone with this same (or a similar) outboard would say that this pointed to a particular failed component or connector (maybe even some hidden electronics module or such-- that's nobody's fault though-- just the way things go...)

I'm much more of an "old school" mechanic from days gone by and am MUCH better with both car and boat engines from the 60's and 70's, but that is information for another post in another forum sometime.

Thanks again for everyone's efforts in trying to help me solve this.
 
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