2000 Yamaha 200 SW

[WRCuddy22]

I am a new poster referred over by another site. Told ther are some Yamaha experts out there. I am in process of repowering 22' 1983 Boston Whaler Revenge Cuddy. Have motor installed, Most of the wiring installed, new fuel water separator and fuel lines, new gauges (Yamaha) and new harnesses and controls. I decided to build my own instrument panel harness as the standard Yamaha one is so generic that I would have to make modifications anyway. There are 4 wires coming out of the main harness/keyswitch. I am assuming red is 12+, yellow is ign, green is for the tach warning indicator, and black is ground. Would I be correct with that? <br /><br />Also have auxilliary 2+ gallon oil tank that I will be mounting in remote location. The factory tank has about 15' of hose connected to the tank and a separate 6'hose with a primer bulb attached. Does anyone have any advice on where to locate the primer bulb. This aux tank setup seems kind of funky! I guess I got kind of spoiled with the built in tank on my Merc. Any responses would be appreciated.<br /><br />John

 

[rodbolt]

Re: 2000 Yamaha 200 SW

hello<br /> the green wire is tach send. does not do anything with warning. the rigging kit should have a 6 ft long harness. at the console end dark blue will be instrument lamps. <br /> the oil tank is not an aux tank.<br /> it is the remote resevoior. similiar to the v-6 mer set up. you will also have a 4 wire harness between the remote oil tank and the engine. the merc uses air pressure to transfer oil the yammy uses a pump in the tank. mount the tank in a location that can be accessed. it has a filter in it that requires yearly maint. I have a customer with an aussie built kevel-cat. the builder fiberglassed the tanks into the gunnels. when the filters clog we will install another set of tanks. so the first set of filters will cost this guy about 1000 dollars. the primer bulb is for fuel. dont put it on the oil side. I know it came with the oil tank kit but it does not go on the oil side.<br /> good luck and keep posting

 

[WRCuddy22]

Re: 2000 Yamaha 200 SW

Thanks rodbolt. The oil tank harness, which had a harness attached to the tank hooked up to a plug inside the motor. Was I correct on the instrument harness with Yellow as the "ign on", red as 12v+, and Black as 12v-. If the primer bulb is for the fuel, how do you prime the system initially? The dealer I bought the motor and rigging stuff from said to make sure I get the oil system primed and all air bubbles out before firing it up or I could have a meltdown. He suggested running premix for a while to make sure. I requested a Yamaha service manual which would have been helpful but they seem to have a hard time coming up with one.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: 2000 Yamaha 200 SW

hello<br /> what I suggest is buying a rigging manual or paying a professional. the oiling system on the yamaha requires no primeing. and the premix is not a suggestion it is mandatory. read your owners manual under the section about engine breakin. you need to test the oil system and its alarms. an easy way to do this is after carefuuly following the installation instructions turn on the ign switch with the stop lanyard removed. you should have a no oil audible and a flashing oil bar indicating a low remote tank and no oil in the engine tank.now turn the key off. fill the remote tank with oil.<br /> turn the key back on. the ECU will now go into a test mode, you should have 3 flashing oil bars an audible alarm and the oil pump transfer will turn on. it should turn off with the engine tank at the full mark in 180 seconds or less. now to bleed the oil system.<br /> open the little screw with the red gasket about 2 turns. allow oil to escape until no air bubbles are present. tighten the screw. then fill the fuel system with pre-mix. dont even attempt to add oil to the engine tank then gas. it wont mix. if you must use the hull tank figgue out how much oil will be needed then mix it 1qt oil to 1 gallon of gas in a seperate container. so that the final result will be a 50/1 fuel to oil ratio in the main tank. now start the engine with the oil link disconnected. I usually do this at the carb, allow the oil pump to go wide open while watching for any air from the #2 oil line. #2 is about the longest. should take less than 5 min or so.<br /> now hook everything back up again. your ready to continue with the rigging/PDI process. if the PDI sheet is asked for by anyone from yamaha and it was not performed by a qualified dealr/tech you may or may not have a warrenty.<br /> good luck and keep posting

 

[WRCuddy22]

Re: 2000 Yamaha 200 SW

I do have a portable tank that I could use for premix. I was thinking of mounting my oil tank under the gunwale at the stern of my console. It would be out of the way and accessable. I was thinking of running the oil line and wiring for the tank through a piece of pcv along the floor back to the engine area. That way nobody will be able to step on it or set gear on the line preventing a pinch point. Does the pump run when ign is on or running? In other words, does the motor need to be running to prime the system? Do the indicator lights indicate the oil level in the tank inside the motor housing? I think I will runn it up to the dealer before I touch it off because the Yamaha warranty is off but we have a agreement with the dealer. Thanks again for your help.<br /><br />John

 

[rodbolt]

Re: 2000 Yamaha 200 SW

hello<br /> 10n hours on premix from a portable tank is a long time.<br /> the only indicators the oil system provides is is there enough oil or not. the owners manual should explain.<br /> I did in my earlier post.<br /> if your not comfortable with your knowledge of the alarms then lean before you burn.<br /> just leave enough slack in the lines to access the oil tank.<br /> on your engine it has to be running if all is normal to transfer.<br /> if the engine tank is empty or low enough to sound the alarm and the remote is full it will go into a test mode and turn on the transfer for 180 seconds. cause it knows there was and is a malfunction. in normal operation that condition cannot happen unless there is a malfunction.<br /> that is why 3 bars flash.<br />3 flashing oil bars indicate a malfunction<br /> good luck and keep posting

 

[WRCuddy22]

Re: 2000 Yamaha 200 SW

Thanks for the info. Called the dealer today and made arrangements to have them check it over when the ice goes out. Make sure I got the right prop and all is ok. I got all my wiring hooked up and wanted to see if the gauges worked. Didn't get around to doing the test you mentioned. With key on noticed trim indicator showed full up and didn't move when moving motor up and down. I did a search on this site and noticed I wasn't the only one but most sounded like adjustment needed to be made. Bought the new trim gauge on ebay, possibly the problem, and had checked to see if it was the right one. Yamaha gauges indicated 3 wire for 2000 and older, and it is (pink, black, orange). Plugs into tach/trim harness which has 4 wires (pink, black, orange, and grey) Any ideas?

 

[rodbolt]

Re: 2000 Yamaha 200 SW

hello<br /> are you using the factory yamaha digital gauges? you should. the rest wont perform correctly over the years. the yammi multifunction tach has the trim gauge built in it. buy the brand new 03 and newer and you get an hour meter in it as well. dont buy the best 2 stroke in the world then get skimpy on the rigging. saving money is great but cheap aint saving. glad to see your going to take it in.<br /> good luck and keep posting

 

[WRCuddy22]

Re: 2000 Yamaha 200 SW

I bought the Yamaha analog gauges. Fills existing holes nicely. I just needed speedo, tach and trim. Trim gauge supposedly is Yamaha 3 wire for 2000 and older. Part # isn't in my head at the time. In fact there is no part # on the gauge itself. On the gauge there are dark blue and black for lights, Pink, black, orange in 4 wire plug with one pin unused and another spliced black with red marks along with plug by itself. Looks like factory splice.<br /><br />Another thought comes to mind. Nice thing we don't have open water yet. I run a 9.9 high thrust kicker on the Whaler for trolling. Great motor. In the past I had to run it off portable tank because of main power being mixed fuel. Now I can run straight gas for both motors off the same tank. I mounted Racor fuel/water separator and using 2 outs, 3/8 fuel line for the 200 hp and 5/16 for the 9.9. Is there a possibility of pulling fuel or air from the non used motor if the primer bulb check valve fails. I thought about installing check valves in line with both outs if necessary. I will still carry portable tank in case of problems but hopefully won't need it.<br /><br />John

 

[WRCuddy22]

Re: 2000 Yamaha 200 SW

Origionally the fuel system was set up for 2 motors and had check valves in both.

 

[WRCuddy22]

Re: 2000 Yamaha 200 SW

Took the boat up to dealer for final checkup, startup, got my trim gauge problem fixed...don't work in tilt mode dummy!! I had my tongue jacked up and couldn't drop it far enough to test the gauge in trim mode. Also got my new manual that I wished I would have had 3 weeks ago. But, my new Yamaha tech manual has absolutely nothing about scheduled maintenance, use of ring free, off season storage, etc. which Rodbolt has been mentioning in other posts. Would you be talking about the owners manual which the original owner probably has? Does Yamaha offer such a manual for sale? Thanks for your assistance. Will be going out for water test Saturday.<br /><br />John

 

[WRCuddy22]

Re: 2000 Yamaha 200 SW

Picked up boat. 50 degrees,20 mph north wind, 3 on board, only ones on the lake, probably the best improvement I've made on classic whaler. 43 mph into headwind with top up. Motor ran flawlessly. Thanks for your help.<br /><br />John