2003 Crestliner 1850 Fish Hawk DC transom rot

[striperday]

I think I will use the Spar Varnish and put multiple coats on it as recommended by tnstratofam. Non of the wood is exposed in any way to light after installed. OK more questions please. The two scrubbers that were on the boat originally were PUSH TOGETHER scrubbers. I don't really like the ones that PUST TOGETHER because I'm afraid they will snap back and cause leaking again. I know I will need to seal them with caulking but I'm feeling more comfortable if they screw down tight. any comments would be appreciated as the PUSH TOGETHER are a bit less expensive (I Think anyway). Any recommendations?

 

[Watermann]

Are you talking about splashwell drain tubes?

You have really 2 choices, either the AL ones you have to flange or the nylon ones that push together. If using the nylon tubes, add some 5200 adhesive and they won't leak or ever come apart.

 

[Patfromny]

I used the metal flanged ones and used 5200. I bought the tool to flare the one end but there is a home made tool schematic floating around the board that you can make and save 25 bucks. 5200 is what you use when you refer to caulking. It dries water proof and is designed for marine projects and even for under the water line.

 

[ezmobee]

I used the plastic ones & 5200. Seems to be holding up fine 7 years in.

 

[striperday]

I forgot to mention, see that white on the old wood, that translates into corrosion on the inner transom skin. Be sure to clean it all off there, skin the pitting with MT or JB, prime and paint before installing the new wood transom.

What is MT and JB?

 

[Watermann]

MT



JB

 

[striperday]

Does anyone know if Lowes carries the Marine Grade JB Weld and the 5200? If they don't is there somewhere you guys can recommend that I order stuff like this?

 

[Tnstratofam]

I purchased both from my local Lowes, but your local one may not. Not all cary them, but most will order it for you if they don't.

 

[striperday]

Well I have completed a successful project thanks to all you guys. The boat is totally back together and I feel really confident about it. Actually I have one more thing to do and that's to have the aluminum Rail of the Transom welded back on the ends. I found a great aluminum welder last week so as soon as the 6" of snow leaves my area I will be pulling the boat to the shop to have that addressed. Thank you guys very much for all your help.

 

[Patfromny]

I didn't reweld mine to the hull but was thinking about doing so. You're talking about the two spot weld type welds that attach the bottom channel to the outside hull? I have since had a few rivets pop and am thinking that those welds are there to stop some of the movement. I'm just happy I caught it at just the rivets. No other damage yet. I even had the boat at my buddy's shop to weld the wings of the lower channel back together. Just a dumb move by me not welding it all at once but I didn't think the small welds did much of anything. Live and learn I guess.

 

[striperday]

This is the top rail that covers the wooden transom. I has to cut both end to remove.

 

[Patfromny]

A bit different than mine. I had an inner C channel that went over the wood and in between the inner and outer transom skins. This was welded in two spots at the top of the engine well dip to the outer skin. Then, there is a bent aluminium channel piece that covers this and fits over the inner and outer skins. The last piece acts more like a finish piece like the one in your pic but mine is just the width of the transom.