2008 3.0 Alpha 1 - suddenly has no power, won't go above 3000rpm

[TBarCYa]

A couple weeks ago I found an oil leak that turned out to be from the lifter cover. I ordered the gasket, took everything apart (to find that there's no gasket just form-a-gasket) and put it back together with new sealant and everything from an oil perspective is okie dokie.

Last weekend we took her out and she was a little hard to start and after heading out thru the channel finally got to open her up and she had no power. Would not even get up on plane unless I had everyone move to the front then she wouldn't turn more than 3000rpms.

The day before heading out, I filled the tank in my truck with regular and the boat with mid grade (which is a mix of regular and premium for those that don't know) and she sat overnight. I have never put gas from this particular station in the boat before but a friend uses it almost exclusively.

I asked my friend if he ever had problems with the gas there and he said that he has not and asked if I have a water separating fuel filter, which I do not. I have recently (3 months) moved to Florida (Homestead) from New Jersey and have never had any fuel issues but I'm told that a filter is pretty much required in Florida due to condensation in fuel tanks.

I'm going to install the fuel filter regardless but my question is does this sound like a water-in-the-fuel issue? It definitely seems like a fuel issue to me which is why my first thought was bad gas.

Along the same lines, in order to do the cover gasket, I had to remove the distributor. I marked the 4 plug wires and marked where the rotor was pointing on the cap housing before removing it. Since the rotor was pointing at the mark and the cap is oriented pretty much where it was, I thought I had the timing where it belonged but if not, how far off would the timing have to be in order to cause these symptoms? I'm going to try to rent a timing light to set it but there's no balancer on the engine just the pulley on the front near the timing indicator so I'm not sure where the timing mark may be on the pulley. I assume it has to be there somewhere or else I'm somehow not seeing a harmonic balancer on the front of the engine.

Anybody that can help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[alldodge]

I had to remove the distributor. I marked the 4 plug wires and marked where the rotor was pointing on the cap housing before removing it. Since the rotor was pointing at the mark and the cap is oriented pretty much where it was, I thought I had the timing where it belonged but if not, how far off would the timing have to be in order to cause these symptoms?

I would bet your timing is off. Marking the distributer and rotor just gets you in the ball park, you need to set it with a timing light. Your off enough to cause the problems. Also make sure to put it in base timing mode when setting the timing. Timing is set based on your serial number

Serial number break: 0L096999 and below set at 1 BTDC
Serial number break: 0L097000 - 0L0340999 set at 1 ATDC
Serial number break: 0L341000 and above set at 2 ATDC

 

[TBarCYa]

Looks like I'm running around trying to find a timing light... Most auto parts stores don't rent those anymore... I'm curious what bypassing the shift interrupt does for setting the timing. All that does is prevent the starter from turning when the drive is in gear, right?

 

[alldodge]

All that does is prevent the starter from turning when the drive is in gear, right?

Nope, the interrupter causes the distributer to kill a couple cylinders so it can come out of gear into neutral. Don't want a signal coming in while timing.

Get an inductive light at most places for around $30

 

[fishrdan]

I'm curious what bypassing the shift interrupt does for setting the timing.

You need to start and warm the engine, then:
1- connect the distributor jumper wire
2- short (connect together) the shift interrupt switch harness wires, this drops the ignition into base timing mode and you will hear the engine bog down (loose timing advance).
3- time the engine per the specs AD listed and re-check timing after tightening the distributor hold down bolt.
4- Unshort and reconnect the shift interrupt switch wires, then remove the distributor jumper wire.
5- timing should now be around 10-14* advance, check it with the timing light.

The timing mark is on the pulley, feel around the back edge/lip of the crank pulley for notch, that's the timing mark. Put a drop of white paint in the mark or fill it with chalk, so you can see it easily while timing the engine.

FWIW, you can buy an advance timing light from Harbor Freight for round $30. Wished I had bought this one, before buying a standard inductive timing light, and then the advance timing light...

 

[TBarCYa]

Timing was the culprit. I didn't get to install the water separating fuel filter because I need to fabricate a bracket but setting the timing fixed the problem. Thanks for the good info!