Re: 200mv on the black/yellow wire to the power pack. Help please!!
ok...disconnected d-connector right before the power pack. I get close to 1 milivolt reading from the black/yellow to block ground.This is from the connector ot the PP. Reconnect connector. Go to kill switch. Kill switch is now seperated from the ignition switch. THere is only a ground and the BLk/Ye wire. In off position...I get a "make" so no miliamps, switch grounded. Turn the key "on" and engage the "cut-off" switch and I get around 20-50 milivolts - depending on which meter I use. For giggles I set the multimeter for current check. If there is voltage...there has to be some type of current draw (V=IR). I get zilch!!! In the miliamp scale I get 0.0ma.. and in the microamp scale I get like .01 microamps, so there is no current going through there. I believe it's noise from the outside or maybe from the wiring running along the battery cables to the back. About the only way to really disprove that would be to get some microphone sheilded wire and use that. That will kill any type of interference.<br />As far as the engine...I have an OMC ingition analyzer. Both min and max are set according to the manual. All six cylinders fire and all six carbs fully open. THe boat was tested by a mech while underway and verified all six were firing with no intermitant problems. compression 115 ,dead on ,on all six.<br />I couldn't take the boat out today cause things came up. Namely my father-inlaw had battery problems with his truck and I had to go help him fix the problem. I have to wait 'til this weekend to take the boat out. I have done the rewiring and also put in a new tach that I got dirt cheap of ebay - new in a box. So....I will wait 'til this weekend before I decide to swap out the PP(have a spare sitting around) and maybe wire that BL/ye wire with a new cable. From all the threads I've read....that wire is very important and the cause of various power pack failures or problems.<br />I found one thread were someone fixed his(PP). I have the instruments and parts at work...If I finally switch packs and that is the problem...I'm gonna take it apart.<br /><br />Seahorse, OBJ and JOE Reeves. I really apprecite that time you guys take to lead me by the hand and help me with this stuff. It is truely a learning experience that I can't even begin to tell you how much I appreciate it :MEGA THUMBSUP:
ok...disconnected d-connector right before the power pack. I get close to 1 milivolt reading from the black/yellow to block ground.This is from the connector ot the PP. Reconnect connector. Go to kill switch. Kill switch is now seperated from the ignition switch. THere is only a ground and the BLk/Ye wire. In off position...I get a "make" so no miliamps, switch grounded. Turn the key "on" and engage the "cut-off" switch and I get around 20-50 milivolts - depending on which meter I use. For giggles I set the multimeter for current check. If there is voltage...there has to be some type of current draw (V=IR). I get zilch!!! In the miliamp scale I get 0.0ma.. and in the microamp scale I get like .01 microamps, so there is no current going through there. I believe it's noise from the outside or maybe from the wiring running along the battery cables to the back. About the only way to really disprove that would be to get some microphone sheilded wire and use that. That will kill any type of interference.<br />As far as the engine...I have an OMC ingition analyzer. Both min and max are set according to the manual. All six cylinders fire and all six carbs fully open. THe boat was tested by a mech while underway and verified all six were firing with no intermitant problems. compression 115 ,dead on ,on all six.<br />I couldn't take the boat out today cause things came up. Namely my father-inlaw had battery problems with his truck and I had to go help him fix the problem. I have to wait 'til this weekend to take the boat out. I have done the rewiring and also put in a new tach that I got dirt cheap of ebay - new in a box. So....I will wait 'til this weekend before I decide to swap out the PP(have a spare sitting around) and maybe wire that BL/ye wire with a new cable. From all the threads I've read....that wire is very important and the cause of various power pack failures or problems.<br />I found one thread were someone fixed his(PP). I have the instruments and parts at work...If I finally switch packs and that is the problem...I'm gonna take it apart.<br /><br />Seahorse, OBJ and JOE Reeves. I really apprecite that time you guys take to lead me by the hand and help me with this stuff. It is truely a learning experience that I can't even begin to tell you how much I appreciate it :MEGA THUMBSUP:
I switched the wire and Isolated it and put a new tack. If that doesn't work...I have a spare PP. Got my fingers crossed.