alandchris
Petty Officer 2nd Class
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2007
- Messages
- 106
about 2 weeks ago I emailed my boat's service department with some questions that I finally got the answers back from them.
in the last week or so, I posted some questions related to what I sent to the deal. The answers are in bold below - now I'm not looking to question anyone's integrity on this forum, nor am I doing that for my dealer - but the answer about the blue cap hose and flushing is troublesome to me since I need to finish winterizing- dealer says only flush with 'flushing muffs' - and NOT run the engine with the hose adapter on the blue cap on the motor.... Would like some counter opinions on these answers below - especially the flushing issue.
questions/answers
the main 2 questions I initially had were related to winterizing;
1) I found a service bullentin from volvo that says to use a winter mix of gas/ 50:1 two stroke oil / and stabil for the last running of the motor prior to winter storage - but was not in the manual - just wanted to confirm that I can do that.
You should run a 50:1 mixture trough the fuel system. The easiest way of doing this is by filling the fuel water separator, mounted on the engine, about half way with 2 stroke oil and stabilizer. Then, running the engine few minutes or until the exhaust smokes a little more then normal.
2) the manual says to remove a hose on the fuel pump - I guess this is the cooler hose for the fuel pump - assuming that this is the hose that goes to the thermostat housing - if so, can I disconnect this hose from the t-stat and lower it down under the fuel pump - is this an ok way to drain that hose. The connection at the bottom of the fuel pump is, hard to get to, and also not a replaceable type clamp.
The small 3/8 water line on the thermostat housing is the hose that goes to the fuel cooler. You are correct, just lower that hose so the water drains. I would drain the block and manifolds first.
questions that came up as a result of talking on the phone were
1) am I not supposed to run the motor with a garden hose connected to the motor's "flush port" - one person says yes - do that, the phone guy said I should flush the engine without running the engine. On my motor there is a blue cap where you screw on a garden hose on the left side of the engine.
The flush hose on the engine with the blue cap is NOT meant for running the engine. If want to run the engine out of the water, flushing muffs have to be installed on the lower unit pick up screens. Other wise you can NOT start the engine and flush the motor with fresh water using the blue cap adaptor. In your case I would run the engine on flushing muffs on the lower unit. This way you can run the oil and stabile mixture through the motor and warm it up.
2) the guy on the phone said the motor needs to have antifreeze run thru it to winterize. The manual doesn't say to run antifreeze thru it, it says to drain all the water from the motor - ie the 4 blue drain plugs (2 on the block, 2 on the manifolds), remove 2 hoses on the raw water pump, remove 1 hose from the circulating pump and then remove the hose at the fuel pump.
Even though the manual doesn?t say to run anti-freeze through the motor, I strongly recommend it. This may be a 2 person job. The engine should be warm. Drain all the water out first and then reinstall all plugs and hoses. You need a hose running from the flushing muffs on the lower unit to a bucket filled with about 6 gallons of anti-freeze. They sell kits for this or you can make one your self. Run the engine until anti-freeze is seen coming out of the exhaust. Make sure when you first start the engine the water pump primes it self and sucks up the anti-freeze or you will burn up the water pump and over heat the engine.
in the last week or so, I posted some questions related to what I sent to the deal. The answers are in bold below - now I'm not looking to question anyone's integrity on this forum, nor am I doing that for my dealer - but the answer about the blue cap hose and flushing is troublesome to me since I need to finish winterizing- dealer says only flush with 'flushing muffs' - and NOT run the engine with the hose adapter on the blue cap on the motor.... Would like some counter opinions on these answers below - especially the flushing issue.
questions/answers
the main 2 questions I initially had were related to winterizing;
1) I found a service bullentin from volvo that says to use a winter mix of gas/ 50:1 two stroke oil / and stabil for the last running of the motor prior to winter storage - but was not in the manual - just wanted to confirm that I can do that.
You should run a 50:1 mixture trough the fuel system. The easiest way of doing this is by filling the fuel water separator, mounted on the engine, about half way with 2 stroke oil and stabilizer. Then, running the engine few minutes or until the exhaust smokes a little more then normal.
2) the manual says to remove a hose on the fuel pump - I guess this is the cooler hose for the fuel pump - assuming that this is the hose that goes to the thermostat housing - if so, can I disconnect this hose from the t-stat and lower it down under the fuel pump - is this an ok way to drain that hose. The connection at the bottom of the fuel pump is, hard to get to, and also not a replaceable type clamp.
The small 3/8 water line on the thermostat housing is the hose that goes to the fuel cooler. You are correct, just lower that hose so the water drains. I would drain the block and manifolds first.
questions that came up as a result of talking on the phone were
1) am I not supposed to run the motor with a garden hose connected to the motor's "flush port" - one person says yes - do that, the phone guy said I should flush the engine without running the engine. On my motor there is a blue cap where you screw on a garden hose on the left side of the engine.
The flush hose on the engine with the blue cap is NOT meant for running the engine. If want to run the engine out of the water, flushing muffs have to be installed on the lower unit pick up screens. Other wise you can NOT start the engine and flush the motor with fresh water using the blue cap adaptor. In your case I would run the engine on flushing muffs on the lower unit. This way you can run the oil and stabile mixture through the motor and warm it up.
2) the guy on the phone said the motor needs to have antifreeze run thru it to winterize. The manual doesn't say to run antifreeze thru it, it says to drain all the water from the motor - ie the 4 blue drain plugs (2 on the block, 2 on the manifolds), remove 2 hoses on the raw water pump, remove 1 hose from the circulating pump and then remove the hose at the fuel pump.
Even though the manual doesn?t say to run anti-freeze through the motor, I strongly recommend it. This may be a 2 person job. The engine should be warm. Drain all the water out first and then reinstall all plugs and hoses. You need a hose running from the flushing muffs on the lower unit to a bucket filled with about 6 gallons of anti-freeze. They sell kits for this or you can make one your self. Run the engine until anti-freeze is seen coming out of the exhaust. Make sure when you first start the engine the water pump primes it self and sucks up the anti-freeze or you will burn up the water pump and over heat the engine.
