228 rebuild...maybe

84EdH

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Re: 228 rebuild...maybe

Chris, start a thread in the restoration forum and I will pick up over there with the transom work.

the camshaft from the 350 you have could be an issue. you may not want to build a higher performance engine than what a stock 350 will give you, but you don't want a boat engine that is not cammed for torque at low end. Bondo and others know more about how to check the cam you have for proper lift etc.

also, don't use automotive carburetor, starter, or alt on your rebuild. must be marine for safety reasons.
 

chris650

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Re: 228 rebuild...maybe

Well, what I was planning on doing was putting in the same stock cam that would have came with the merc 260. Oh, and all the cg approved items off of the 305 will be used on the 350. Starter, distributer,alt,carb etc.. That's why I was making double sure that all those items would transfer over.
 
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chris650

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Re: 228 rebuild...maybe

I wont even use the cam that's currently in the 350. I fully planned on buying a new one.
 

chris650

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Re: 228 rebuild...maybe

Is there any info on the block itself that would tell me what it was out of? I might get lucky and it was originally in a truck, who knows. Casting # is 3970010
 
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84EdH

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Re: 228 rebuild...maybe

You have to look at suffix letter in front of the block on the pass. side. Behind the alt. There two or three letters. That will tell you the history of the motor. find those numbers and google some chevy engine sites for tables telling what the codes mean. of course it may not all still be original. if you get the specs on a stock 260 engine cam, you could measure what you have against those numbers

http://www.ecbrcnj.com/id13.html

http://www.nastyz28.com/sbchevy/sblock.html
 
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Bondo

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Re: 228 rebuild...maybe

Is there any info on the block itself that would tell me what it was out of? I might get lucky and it was originally in a truck, who knows. Casting # is 3970010

Ayuh,.... That's a common good block from 'bout the same vintage as yer 305,...
 

84EdH

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Re: 228 rebuild...maybe

To try and correct the record. I was under the impression that why truck engines were considered better than car engines for boats was because the crankshaft was different, as well as camshaft. After doing more research, I cannot find any info that supports the crankshaft being different from a car, boat or truck. The truck engine benefit is that most 350 truck engines will have the 4 bolt mains and camshaft profiles closer to true marine cams. lots of opinions out there about the camshafts, but bottom line is that marine camshafts are made, and they are either a lot or a little different from truck cams depending on who is giving the opinion.

I apologize for posting incorrect info. Feel free to weigh in.

Ed
 

Walt T

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Re: 228 rebuild...maybe

Harleyman hit it on the head, good solid advice
 

Fishermark

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Re: 228 rebuild...maybe

Just to add my two cents... bottom line is the 350 is a better choice than the 305. And ditto to what everyone has said about the peripherals bolting on. (Someone mentioned stainless steel core or freeze plugs. You actually will want brass ones).

You mentioned the exhaust manifolds appear to be good. I would certainly verify that - along with the risers. If and when those fail it can cause a lot of damage to the engine due to water ingestion. If there was any doubt about that at all I would replace with new. Just something to be very sure about.
 

chris650

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Re: 228 rebuild...maybe

ok, i read you fishmark. Can anyone lead me in the right direction on how to go about verifying my exhaust manifolds and risers are in good condition? I also want to add that im going to be photo documenting this project, so if any of you guys want to follow this ongoing post, id greatly appreciate input! And also want to thank my fellow iboat members in advance, but also to be understanding that i paid 1600.00 for my boat, and though i fully plan on doing a good job and things the correct way to the best of my ability,i unfortunatly cant go too crazy on the cost, kinda have to work with what i have unless its in dire need of replacement. I hope you guys follow along with my posts !
 

Fishermark

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Re: 228 rebuild...maybe

Bubba posted a great idea awhile back on using acetone to check for leaks. Don made it a permanent post in the DIY section at the top of the page. Basically you want to make sure there is plenty of metal left between the water jacket and the exhaust section of the manifold and riser. There should be at least 1/4" of good, clean shiny metal when you look at the passages - check it out where the manifold and riser bolt together. Clean the area good - I use a flat file to get everything down to the metal all the way around. You want to make sure it is all smooth and flat when you bolt it back together. Some emery paper on a piece of glass works well.
 
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