I have a 3.0 TKS that starts instantly (less than a sec) then stalls a second later when warm. At that point to get it going I have to open the throttle up. Starts cold just fine. And runs fine.
The carb is a new rebuild less than a year old. Also a new fuel pump. Confirmed no gas is dripping in the carb after shutdown. All fuel filters are new (carb, pump, and fuel / water). Idle fuel mix has been dialed in. Could it be flooding below the butterflies and I can’t see it? Symptoms happen on the dock with the cover off so I don’t think vapor lock is the issue.
Timing shows around 15 BTDC at 790 RPM idle. Base is 0. Flame arrester says should be 2 ATDC, but I can’t get it to advance past 22 BTDC per the Mercruiser advance curve, so I left is a little advanced. Should I retard the timing slightly more? Or advance it? I always thought more retarded equals easier to start? Curve seems linear, so I don’t think I have a bad EST module. Have tried replacing anyway, but they all seem to be junk that don’t give me a linear advance curve, so back to stock.
Contacts in the distributor cap were slightly corroded so replacing that. Could I have a bad coil?
TKS module closes as expected and there continues to be voltage to the module while the engine is off but warm.
Totally stumped because otherwise the engine runs great.
Thanks for the help!!
The carb is a new rebuild less than a year old. Also a new fuel pump. Confirmed no gas is dripping in the carb after shutdown. All fuel filters are new (carb, pump, and fuel / water). Idle fuel mix has been dialed in. Could it be flooding below the butterflies and I can’t see it? Symptoms happen on the dock with the cover off so I don’t think vapor lock is the issue.
Timing shows around 15 BTDC at 790 RPM idle. Base is 0. Flame arrester says should be 2 ATDC, but I can’t get it to advance past 22 BTDC per the Mercruiser advance curve, so I left is a little advanced. Should I retard the timing slightly more? Or advance it? I always thought more retarded equals easier to start? Curve seems linear, so I don’t think I have a bad EST module. Have tried replacing anyway, but they all seem to be junk that don’t give me a linear advance curve, so back to stock.
Contacts in the distributor cap were slightly corroded so replacing that. Could I have a bad coil?
TKS module closes as expected and there continues to be voltage to the module while the engine is off but warm.
Totally stumped because otherwise the engine runs great.
Thanks for the help!!
