3.0L differences

matt167

Rear Admiral
Joined
Sep 27, 2012
Messages
4,423
So we went from oil leak fix to water leak into engine fix?
It’s got both evidently or at least suspected water at this point… but it’s also running well enough that I doubt changing it entirely is really needed
 

Scott06

Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
7,474
Plan on addressing them. I meant swapping to another engine.
take the plugs out after it sits and spin the engine if water is leaking in after shut down you will see it come out the plug hole, or have you already confirmed that ?

Spark plug will be clean on a cylinder getting water in it as well.

If I recall you are in fresh water so rot is unlikely , but failed riser gasket or freeze damage is possible. In fresh I have had original exhaust on boats 40 years old.
 
Last edited:

matt167

Rear Admiral
Joined
Sep 27, 2012
Messages
4,423
I don’t think it’s freeze damage as there is zero signs of that as well as the PO used antifreeze to winterize. I haven’t spun it over with no plugs. Just a suspicion. #4 looked wet with oil to me but perhaps it’s oily and wet with water as well. Zero water in oil when I drained it. It’s just a feeling at this point but a gut feeling
 

Scott06

Admiral
Joined
Apr 20, 2014
Messages
7,474
I don’t think it’s freeze damage as there is zero signs of that as well as the PO used antifreeze to winterize. I haven’t spun it over with no plugs. Just a suspicion. #4 looked wet with oil to me but perhaps it’s oily and wet with water as well. Zero water in oil when I drained it. It’s just a feeling at this point but a gut feeling
oil makes sense given the age of the engine. But usually water will steam clean the plug. Easy to take them out and spin it after it sits.

On the initial stumble might use a spark gap tester on all four plug wires to see if you are loosing spark. Might just be a carb por choke setting that smooths out when it gets warm. If i recall on my 3.0 two plugs always looked perfect and two always looked black/somewhat fouled. I think ends were fouled, and middle cyl were ash grey. Never could make that go away ran great after rebuilding the carb and hammered that boat for 20 years. Always amazed how much punishment the 3.0 could take as the kids got bigger and load on the engine when tubing and skiing increased
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
28,913
Gee, it will be simple (and cheap) enough to fix the oil leak, when you pull the engine. Set up some cement blocks and wood to hole the block while you pull the pan.

Mark the exhaust manifold so you remember it leaks and store the engine.
 
Top