4.3GL will not stay cranked.

[Jprevat]

I have been reading through so many threads hoping to find an answer to my problems but I am stuck. My engine model is 4326BPLKD and I am having a hard time figuring out the correct parts I need due to the odd configuration. This is in 1998 Sunbird Corsair that was given to me so I can throw a little money into fixing it. The boat itself is solid but the engine is giving me problems.

I can turn the key and everything sounds good. I get fire from the motor and it revs and then dies all in about 3 seconds. My oil Pressure gauge is reading 40 psi while cranking so I am lead to thinking my oil pressure sending unit is good. I however can not find an oil pressure switch anywhere on my block. I dont even know if I have one or if I am supposed to due to the lack of information I can find in regard to my engine model number.

I hope you guys can help me out because I am stumped. Thank you all in advance for taking the time to read through my post.

 

[kelleyja]

When was the last time that carburetor was rebuilt?

 

[Jprevat]

It has been quite some time I would imagine. I am getting a moderately strong gas smell from my oil as well.

 

[Fun Times]

My engine model is 4326BPLKD and I am having a hard time figuring out the correct parts I need due to the odd configuration. This is in 1998 Sunbird Corsair

Your engine model numbers don't appear to be correct and don't appear to be in the right order either. You'll want to double check them. Might be best to try and take a picture with your cell phone of the model number plate so you have it with you and hopefully you can post it in here too.

Your number 4326BPLKD isn't on the list of standard Volvo numbers/letters. I was thinking maybe it would read 4.3GL BPLKD but that's not on the list either. There is 4.3GL PLKD 4.3GLPLKD which would be one example of what the number should look/read like. One thing is for sure, the 26 is not correct and with a GL engine model, the B after 26 don't look right either at this time.

 

[Jprevat]

Your engine model numbers don't appear to be correct and don't appear to be in the right order either. You'll want to double check them. Might be best to try and take a picture with your cell phone of the model number plate so you have it with you and hopefully you can post it in here too.

Your number 4326BPLKD isn't on the list of standard Volvo numbers/letters. I was thinking maybe it would read 4.3GL BPLKD but that's not on the list either. There is 4.3GL PLKD 4.3GLPLKD which would be one example of what the number should look/read like. One thing is for sure, the 26 is not correct and with a GL engine model, the B after 26 don't look right either at this time.

That was the same problem I was having. It simply did not match the standard volvo designations. I will get a picture of the tag tomorrow morning before I have to head to work.

 

[Jprevat]

The product number on the rear tag at the transom is 3868413. I don't know if anything can be derived from that or not though.

 

[Fun Times]

The product number on the rear tag at the transom is 3868413. I don't know if anything can be derived from that or not though.

Yes sometimes the product number may help but this appears to be your Volvo SX transom assembly number due to that number is coming up like seen below,

http://www.volvopenta.com/volvopenta...on_search.aspx Search Publications

Search Options Product Designation (Application)
Product Number
Technical Data

Product Name	TS1-D-AQ-0
Product Designation	TSK SX-C1
Product Number	3868413
Production Period	1995-2001

Drag a column header and drop it here to group by that column

154304	Workshop manual	Poster - Sterndrive Models (Only available in printed version)	23.7 MB	English		false
153590	Parts catalog	SX-C, SX-C1, SX-C2 (Only available in printed version)	9.8 MB	English		false
147031	Parts catalog	Parts catalog LK models. Catalog also included in set 7797370-9. (Only available in printed version)	16.5 MB	English		false

seek-warrow-w

• 1

arrow-eseek-e25select2550100items per page1 - 3 of 3 items

 

[Maclin]

Are you sure there is an oil pressure switch used to power the fuel pump? I was thinking Volvo powers the fuel pump from the alternator, so if the alternator is not spinning the pump stops. Mercs use an oil pressure switch.

 

[bruceb58]

I was thinking Volvo powers the fuel pump from the alternator, so if the alternator is not spinning the pump stops.

That is correct. While cranking, the fuel pump will also operate.

 

[Jprevat]

I will definitely get a picture of the tag here in a minute on my way out of the door.

I did not know that the pump was powered by the alternator. I did see somewhere, in a sea of information, that the alt may have I diode in line that can go out sometime.

Where would be a good place to check for this? Is the diode inside the alt or somewhere else?

I am a complete novice when it comes to volvo penta engines so thank you all for the ideas.

 

[Jprevat]

So after some q-tip cleaning I can read my engine tag and it is a 432bplkd.

 

[Fun Times]

So after some q-tip cleaning I can read my engine tag and it is a 432bplkd.

Still not adding up as the 2 B or 6 should not be there. knowing that there's an LK in the lettering puts the engine to be 1997 engine year model which would typical to find in a 98 boat. LK = 1996-1997.

Also knowing that the engine is 4.3 GL as the GL should be seen on top of the flame arrestor cover, You'd be fine to use 4.3GLPLKD as your parts guide.

http://www.volvopentastore.com/Mari...on_id.531815027--store_id.366--view_id.765054

To get you started, Below are just some helpful tips/ideas/wiring diagrams for testing the fuel pump circuit on the GL engines,
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...s/402924-volvo-penta-4-3-gl-c-fuel-pump-issue

http://www.justanswer.com/boat/4usvi-volvo-penta-4-3gl-boat-believe-1994.html

http://www.justanswer.com/boat/7pgbx-1998-regal-destiny-volvo-penta-4-3-gl.html
The quote below is from the link directly above (^^^) and it mentions the locations of the diodes.

One diode was under the fuel pump and one was under the alternator. I had to remove three hoses and the fuel pump bracket to get to it. I did ohms them out and one was definitely bad. I did change both totaling about $6.00. They were 1.5 amp diodes. Thanks for your help. Boat starts stops good now onto replacing trim position switch. Any hints

See page 3-7, Testing Excite/Sense ciruits L2
http://www.boatinfo.no/lib/volvo/manuals/lk_elect.html#/52

2005 Volvo 4.3 GL-A engine that has a starting problem. If I turn the key the engine will turn, but it won't start. It doesn't appear to be getting any fuel.

Diagnostics
I pulled the green wire (L post) on the alternator and jumpered it. The pump sounds like it's running, so I think that much is OK. Because the fuel relay is also switching properly when I did this (pump runs) I think that's OK too.

Because there diodes involved that can potentially go bad I also tested the wire from the alternator. I used a VOM set to ohms and put the hot lead at the alternator side and the negative probe in the 85 connector. It shows low resistance. I reversed the probes and it shows resistance at 1.0, so the diode is OK.

In reading several other posts on similar problems I learned that while starting, the pump gets power from the starting relay. On my engine this is located in the electronics box attached to the starboard riser. I tested the yellow/red wire the same way I did the alternator (green) wire. It shows low resistance from the starter relay to the fuel pump relay and 1.0 on the reverse, so it's also good.

I pulled the fuel filter off and poured its contents into a jar to check for water and sediment. It's clean, and the filter is new, so I doubt there is an issue there. The Holly 2bbl carb was just rebuilt and when I tested the engine it started and ran great, so there shouldn't be any issues there.

Just for grins I pulled the fuel supply hose and put an outboard priming ball and a section of clear hose on so I could see what was happening. I also checked all connections in the fuel system from the carb to the tank and they're tight, so no air leaks.

If I prime the system using the ball, I can start the engine and if I play with the throttle a bit I can keep it running. Once the engine has been started I can restart it without doing anything else. Although this worked, I don't really want to have to open up the engine compartment every time I start the engine.

This has me really frustrated and I've run out of stuff to try. The pump runs when it gets power, so the pump is good. The wires (and diodes) from the starter relay and alternator are also good (if my test was valid). The fuel pump relay seems good since it runs the pump when it gets power from the alternator (I didn't test power from the starter relay).

 

[Jprevat]

Still not adding up as the 2 B or 6 should not be there. knowing that there's an LK in the lettering puts the engine to be 1997 engine year model which would typical to find in a 98 boat. LK = 1996-1997.

Also knowing that the engine is 4.3 GL as the GL should be seen on top of the flame arrestor cover, You'd be fine to use 4.3GLPLKD as your parts guide.

http://www.volvopentastore.com/Mari...*****.531815027--store_id.366--view_id.765054

To get you started, Below are just some helpful tips/ideas/wiring diagrams for testing the fuel pump circuit on the GL engines,
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...s/402924-volvo-penta-4-3-gl-c-fuel-pump-issue

http://www.justanswer.com/boat/4usvi-volvo-penta-4-3gl-boat-believe-1994.html

http://www.justanswer.com/boat/7pgbx-1998-regal-destiny-volvo-penta-4-3-gl.html
The quote below is from the link directly above (^^^) and it mentions the locations of the diodes.


See page 3-7, Testing Excite/Sense ciruits L2
http://www.boatinfo.no/lib/volvo/manuals/lk_elect.html#/52

Thank you so much for the response. I hope I never have to go through all that again. It turns out that after chasing wires that it was the ignition wire in the main harness that had become faulty. After running a jumper she fired right up.

Now for some preventative maintenance and hopefully a splash next week.

 

[Fun Times]

Thank you so much for the response. I hope I never have to go through all that again. It turns out that after chasing wires that it was the ignition wire in the main harness that had become faulty. After running a jumper she fired right up.

Now for some preventative maintenance and hopefully a splash next week.

Good to hear and thanks for the update:thumb:....Happy Boating this season.:encouragement:

 

[Jprevat]

Good to hear and thanks for the update:thumb:....Happy Boating this season.:encouragement:

Thank you very much.

 

[asherj40]

Thank you so much for the response. I hope I never have to go through all that again. It turns out that after chasing wires that it was the ignition wire in the main harness that had become faulty. After running a jumper she fired right up.

Now for some preventative maintenance and hopefully a splash next week.

I'm having the same issue with my 4.3GL-C. What color wire in the ignition harness was bad and where? i.e switch ...

 

[Fun Times]

I'm having the same issue with my 4.3GL-C. What color wire in the ignition harness was bad and where? i.e switch ...

Hi there asherj40, welcome to iboats!

Usually the ignition wire is purple and the main battery wire will be red (with sometimes a striped color too) at the key switch on back to the engine.

Also please be aware that "typically" with a high number of members seeking help, once someone resolves there issues, it's more on the rare side for them to come back online and help answer any questions there after... So with that in mind, if the purple wire doesn't turn out to be your problem, it would be best for you to create a new topic for yourself so that we can try our best to help you out as well.

The first part of any diagnostics for an electrical issues like mentioned in this topic is inspecting all the wiring connections for being loose, corroded, backed out, or possible wire chafing too by carefully wiggling them around, pulling connections, etc.

Hope it's an easy one to figure out, good luck.

 

[asherj40]

It was the purple wire. It goes to the engine saftey switch. The switch was bad. Thanks for your help. Now it is time to go to the lake.