40 HP RDS-22 1960 Solenoid Test

edenfd1

Recruit
Joined
Jul 29, 2009
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2
I spent half the day trying to get this rescued old girl started and half the day reading about what to do on this site. I have to say, this is one of the best sites I have seen. It is very well organized and has a ton of quality info. The boat is an old Norriscraft that I rescued. She was found rotting away on the edge of the woods across town. We brought her home and have been slowly dialing her back in.

Believe it or not, last weekend I got her turning over and found out that I needed to R&R the points and condensers. After installing these this morning I could not wait to give it a go and when I turned the key...nothing. No starter, no click. I then went to my repair manual to find the proper test procedure for the starter solenoid. This 'Clymer' manual was telling me to test at certain points but the diagram was not marked properly in the book. That's when I started searching this site.

I found one of your posts where you were helping someone with the same engine and offered a good diagram to view. I actually had the same problem this person did - I had voltage on first three solenoid posts, no click when turning the key and no voltage on post 4. One of the posts stated that this condition would tell you to replace the solenoid but a few words later it also stated that it could also be a bad ground on the 3rd post.

I had another solenoid in the shop and swapped it out but had the same problem - same readings. I then started rechecking grounds and connections. I then decided that instead of trying to track down the bad ground through multiple places it would be faster to establish a new ground and prove this. I connected a jumper from post three (small starter side post on solenoid) directly to the negative battery terminal. This time when I turned the key she fired right up!

Now (finally) my question: This obviously proves that the solenoid is good and I have a poor ground somewhere. Jumping this as I did just masked the problem. Where would you suggest I go from here?

I can see evidence that someone has messed with the wiring before from a few splices. In fact there are three wires that are laying on the bottom of the motor beneath the carb. They appear to have been cut and covered - not in use.

Now that I know she's good I am going to pull the lower unit and go through it before going any further. I actually found a crack in the lower unit bottom cover that caps off the prop shaft. When I filled the lower unit with oil it started to seep out of this crack. If I can't get this one welded I've been told one of our local marinas shoulkd have this cover.

Well, let me know your thoughts on the best course of action to chase down the poor ground.

Thanks

Tim
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
28,520
Re: 40 HP RDS-22 1960 Solenoid Test

Tim, I believe the solenoid is grounded thru the starter safety switcg. This switch makes sure the motor is in neutral before grounding.

You might track it down and see if it grounds when the motor is in neutral.
 

edenfd1

Recruit
Joined
Jul 29, 2009
Messages
2
Re: 40 HP RDS-22 1960 Solenoid Test

The only switches I can find are the vacuum cut out on the side of the power head and a mercury level switch on the throttle lever. If there is (or was) a switch for neutral it may have been removed. Is this supposed to be on the aft top side of the motor under the edge of the flywheel?

Thanks for your help.
 

lindy46

Captain
Joined
Nov 27, 2008
Messages
3,886
Re: 40 HP RDS-22 1960 Solenoid Test

Wire from one of the small solenoid posts should go to that cut-out switch. Make sure the mercury switch is also connected to the cut-out switch and the other end should be grounded to the engine block. My motor did the same thing and the ground wire on the mercury switch had broken off.
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,226
Re: 40 HP RDS-22 1960 Solenoid Test

Wire from one of the small solenoid posts should go to that cut-out switch. Make sure the mercury switch is also connected to the cut-out switch and the other end should be grounded to the engine block. My motor did the same thing and the ground wire on the mercury switch had broken off.

The 1960 does not have start-in-neutral protection. What it does have is start-only-at-slow-throttle-setting. That is accomplished by grounding the solenoid through the mercury switch on the throttle pinion. The 1960 has a DUAL mercury switch. One section is for starting, and the other section ensures that the vacuum cut-out switch can only operate at slow throttle settings. Otherwise, the vacuum switch can close under certain conditions and cause a high speed miss.

The body of the mercury switch must be grounded or it won't work.

Here is the diagram:

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s311/frankr_photos/Wiring1958_6135_40hpwithoutgenerato.jpg
 
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