454 mag mpi chuggles/stalls

Fun Times

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You mentioned a new long block and the previous engine had the same issue. Did the intake manifold come from the old engine to the 'new' long block? (sorry if that was already discussed)
This question on post 61 seemed to go unanswered...?
As in some reference, is item numbers 2 and 3 in place?, https://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassemblydetail/37744147/28149300
Check the vacuum lines that connect to the fuel damper/regulator at the back of the fuel rail, port side of engine. There should be no fuel present in the line

That damper can fail and cause an overfueling/rich condition at idle. It will be evident by checking for fouled spark plugs

If this is indeed your cause, the damper is nla from merc and GM. In the past I've plugged the damper vacuum connection and the vacuum line at the damper to solve the issue
Also post 13 needs attention.... Is there gas in the vacuum line / coming out of the fuel regulator? See hose A / 46, https://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassemblydetail/37744147/28149300

Also in one of the videos above, the flame arrestor (#38) appears extremely black and dirty, have you cleaned it? ran the engine with it off and/or another one when you swapped plenums? Hope the engine isn't starving for air.

One sensor wasn't physically mentioned as being swapped out and tried but I suspect it was tried with the swapped out plenum is of the MAP sensor itself.
Have you tried a new/another used MAP by itself? I saw you unplugged it, etc. but have you inspected the MAP seal too (Item number 20)? They become compromised.
This may sound dumb but in the past I had found 2 bad MAP sensors by accidentally putting/resting my forearm down on the top of the (454/502 MPI) map sensor while the engine was running and found the particular issue the engine was having as the weight changed the engines behavior to normal... Try touching the MAP sensor...

Try swapping item number 17 just because, https://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassemblydetail/37744137/28149300

Engine temp is reaching 154 degrees minimum? I saw 132.8 in one of the posts above not answered.

Item number 18 in place, https://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassemblydetail/37744139/28149300
 

vroom ZOOM

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This question on post 61 seemed to go unanswered...?
As in some reference, is item numbers 2 and 3 in place?, https://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassemblydetail/37744147/28149300

Also post 13 needs attention.... Is there gas in the vacuum line / coming out of the fuel regulator? See hose A / 46, https://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassemblydetail/37744147/28149300

Also in one of the videos above, the flame arrestor (#38) appears extremely black and dirty, have you cleaned it? ran the engine with it off and/or another one when you swapped plenums? Hope the engine isn't starving for air.

One sensor wasn't physically mentioned as being swapped out and tried but I suspect it was tried with the swapped out plenum is of the MAP sensor itself.
Have you tried a new/another used MAP by itself? I saw you unplugged it, etc. but have you inspected the MAP seal too (Item number 20)? They become compromised.
This may sound dumb but in the past I had found 2 bad MAP sensors by accidentally putting/resting my forearm down on the top of the (454/502 MPI) map sensor while the engine was running and found the particular issue the engine was having as the weight changed the engines behavior to normal... Try touching the MAP sensor...

Try swapping item number 17 just because, https://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassemblydetail/37744137/28149300

Engine temp is reaching 154 degrees minimum? I saw 132.8 in one of the posts above not answered.

Item number 18 in place, https://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassemblydetail/37744139/28149300
Yes, the intake came from the old engine, and that is the only part I have not tried moving from the other engine, aside from the transmission. I will move it over today.

As for parts 2 and 3 there isnt even a hole for them in the intake.
No fuel in the vacuum line to the regulator.
Flame arrestor wise, the other engine runs with either or. I tried swapping them to no avail. I can see light through both so they should pass enough air to idle. If they were restricted I would see a very high vacuum as the engine starves for air. definitely not the case here.

Tried a new oem GM map sensor and tried the one from the other engine. Also tried swapping the distributor jumper harness.

That little connector (#18), where does it go? I do not recall seeing one.
 

vroom ZOOM

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Weird update #102380703023!
Today, I swapped the intake manifold between both engines as that is the ONLY part I have not tried. Put it on and the engine started then quit. Unplugged the coolant sensor and it did much the same as before.

*Flashback from a couple of months ago*
I remembered another boat I was working on (just an old carby setup) with a pertronix module. On that thing, after installing a new module the timing was WAY out of wack. After turning the distributor it just randomly started loosing spark. Turned the dizzy back, and the spark came back (but really out of time). Without another thought, I moved each wire over one post and then the thing was close enough that I could time it up and make it run just fine.
*end of flashback*

Well, I decided to try this same thing here. Turned the dizzy way over so the rotor pointed at the next post, then moved the wires over. Also while messing around I realized I had unplugged the hose to the outboard tank I was running it from. Plugged it back in, purged the air from the rail, and tried to start it. It fired a couple of times but quit pretty soon as usual. I removed a spark plug, and I was OVERJOYED to see it soaked in fuel... This engine finally had too much fuel instead of not enough! I plugged the coolant sensor back in so the engine would stop dumping fuel in, and it just started.... and stayed running. No missing, no IAC hissing. just running.

I shut it off and started it again and it ran good again. I don't know if it will start tomorrow, as this engine has been a bunch of curveballs, but we are making progress.

My only theory here is that I somehow changed the time at which the injectors fire relative to the intake valve opening and that helps it take on more fuel... Which is kind of silly considering the sensor in the distributor does not know which cylinder is at TDC and this engine uses a batch fire system. super weird.

I am sitting here thinking if it was the intake manifold swap that did the trick or if it was the distributor...
 

alldodge

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Glad to hear your running, but have issue with the cause
 

vroom ZOOM

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WELL....
My problems didn't stop from the last post... Far from being trouble free.
After doing the dizzy turny wire swappy thing that made the engine run like BUTTER, it ran good the next day too. The day after that, it ran good again, so I decided to finally take the boat out for a test run and take on some fuel. Well, I cranked up the engine, ready to head out for a test, and it went back to square one.

Damn, I was PISSED. However, I realized that if I give it some revs to keep it running for 30 seconds or so that was the required amount of time to get it to push the IAC full open. With the IAC almost full open it would stay idling without stalling and let me go in and out of gear. The engine sounded like crap and was clearly misfiring but I decided to go ahead and see what would happen if I got on the throttle. So I took the boat out, and as soon as I got past 5% throttle the engine would run excellent, no misfiring. Back to idle and it would miss.

Ok, whatever, it runs good on plane, and fall was around the corner, so I decided that the engine should get me from Annapolis all the way up to Canada, and then I would mess with the idling issue when I got the boat home. First day, did about 80 miles uneventfully. Next day I wanted to do even more but the sea was very rough past Cape May so I had to take the ICW. Then I ran into the Dorsett Avenue drawbridge in Ventnor city that was broken and wouldn't open so I ended up doing about 95 miles that day. The next day I did some shopping in Atlantic city as I had lost my barbecue in the Delaware bay, the chop caused the barbecue to rip out of its post on the swim platform. Waited for low tide, removed everything from the radar arch, and managed to squeeze under the bridge with about an inch of clearance. Whew!

Did only 40 miles or so that day, and basically got up to Barnegat bay late in the evening. The next two days I was just moored waiting for good weather, and then with somewhat tolerable ocean conditions, I headed out to make the final run to NYC. I was a third of the way there and then I heard a loud ROD KNOCK 🤬! Only thing is that it was coming from the STARBOARD engine, that never gave me any issues. Limped back to the place I moored at on one engine, and had the boat hauled out. Checked the compression and it was kinda missing in a few cylinders. I rented a uhaul van, took both engines out and headed back home to Canada with them. So now I have two bad engines 😭.

I do have to mention that I did the cylinder heads on the starboard engine (the one that was problem free), since a couple of cylinders were a little low on compression and these engines are known for dropping/sticking valves. Had the seats, guides, and seals done on them. Also converted to adjustable rockers so I can manually set the preload.

Well, I tore the engine apart a couple of weeks ago, and the cylinders and bottom end looked absolutely pristine. Not a scratch on any journal or bearing. So I doubt that the knocking noise would come from the bottom end. The pistons and cylinder walls are in good shape too. The only place I could loose compression is through the heads, so I took those back to the machine shop. Got a call from them and they said the thing got extremely hot/lean and warped the seats and guides and they wonder how it even ran at all.

What a head scratcher. It never misfired or anything, but what both engines did was blow a fair bit of steam from the exhaust. Neither overheated, but the exhaust water did get quite warm. I did go through the entire cooling system, and all the pickups, strainers, coolers, heat exchangers were clear. I also installed new exhaust manifolds and elbows. Even at idle, the water discharge from the exhaust was like a fire hydrant, so I assumed the steam was normal. IMG-20251024-WA0000[1].jpg

Well, maybe it wasnt and was telling me something was wrong. I don't know. I also don't know where the heck I am going with this post, but anyways, I have the port engine home right now on a pallet, and I will try start it outside of the boat and see what it does.
 
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