45hp Chrysler - No Spark & Overheating?

Joined
Mar 17, 2014
Messages
11
I am slowly getting some spare time to start tinkering on a new restoration project with my first boat ( thread linked below ). I have as of this week just started attempting to mess with the 45hp outboard Chrysler motor. I have no background in boating but plenty in automotive mechanics and basic mechanics so after spending the day messing with the motor it seems rather simple yet I'm sort of stumped at the moment. The guy I purchased it from, who at this point I believe knew nothing about it, said the motor wouldnt start due to a bad coil. Upon popping the cover off one of the two coils did have many cracks in it so I went ahead and ordered one in good shape from a person parting out a motor on ebay, as the parts for this motor seem to be discontinued. Also purchased new plugs and a carb rebuild kit. I disassembled the carb and it was actually very very clean so I only replaced the gaskets and did a nice quick cleanup on it and reassembled. I added the choke unit which was laying inside the motor unattached. I have looked up a wiring diagram and everything on the motor is in place and correct. Cleaned the fuel filter unit and replaced the fuel line on the motor. After changing the coil and plugs, I went ahead and changed the lower unit oil which though was dark had no trash or metal shavings within to my surprise. From there I went ahead and submerged the lower unit and attempted to start the motor for the first time in my possession. I came to the conclusion I had a bad starter so had to wait a couple days for a replacement to arrive. Yesterday, with the new starter in place I was able to get the motor to turn over finally but it never would hit. After trying various things and turning it over for a few accumulated minutes the motor would cut off. Now; I have concluded a few things :

-motor turns over freely but gets no spark on either cyl1 or cyl2
-both coils are getting ignition 12v on the positive sides of the coils
-12v shows in all the appropriate places with key off (power only / batt), key on (ign / choke), start position (starter)
-motor during starting attempts was not shooting water out of water exhaust hole, so does this imply a bad impeller? (starting attempts in neutral)
-motor, after a few starting attempts, shows 12v battery but then when turned to ignition or start drops to 0v; is this a safety precaution to prevent overheating?
-boat has no 'buzzer' for overheating nor any unit that I can see, as the coolant temperature sensor wire goes up to the 'dashboard' area and stops there (i'd assume for a gauge or buzzer to be added)
-if the above impeller assumption is correct, then I would presume that the motor is overheating and therefore disabling the ability to start after a few attempts?


So my questions for you guys, and trust me your help is very much appreciated, are:
-Is my assumption about the impeller and overheating protection correct? So in that case, once I change the impeller in the lower unit then I should be getting water, even just under the power of the starter turning the motor over, coming out of the back of the motor? Or does the impeller only rotate when the motor is in gear, as I am attempting to start in neutral?
-The lack of spark on both cylinders, though 12v is being delivered to the coils; could this be due to the device beneath the flywheel? I'm not quite certain of the terminology, though it seems as if this would be some sort of 'alternator' and/or 'distributor'? I'm getting no spark at all, but if this unit was bad it could not be making contact or something of that sort?


Now, i have been recommended already to ditch this motor for something with more current support and etc; I feel as if, with my little bit of tinkering, that the motor hasnt just been trashed over the years. I think if I could restore this motor to running again with little work, it should last fine and for the very very few times I will most likely use the boat, it should do just fine. I'm not really trying to invest in a newer motor, nor picking up another boat with motor to work on a different one if this one can be salvaged. The choke and throttle linkage all is complete and working so far and after reviewing a diagram of the wiring and motor it is complete and original to what I can see. Any help you folks can give me is a push in the right direction and I look forward to your response. Thanks so much in advance!
 

stubtail

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Mar 27, 2009
Messages
84
The engine is not overheating without any internal combustion. The "coolant temperature sensor" is just a temp overheat switch that in the event of elevated temps, the circuit is completed to the overheat buzzer that you don't have. And, at cranking speeds, there may not be sufficient RPM to obtain water flow through the engine (the impeller turns at crankshaft RPM regardless if in gear or neutral), however it would be wise to replace it regardless. Always worthwhile to perform a compression test. As for no spark - did you physically check or assume? If you don't have engine shop manual - get one. Even a Seloc beats nothing.
 
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