470 mercruiser rebuilt engine install questions

stonyloam

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I like the diagram, I can do that!
On the relay power, Can just run straight from battery with a fuse inline instead of going to a bus? Or is there a recommend spot off of the bus on the transom etc?

Do I use the fuel pumps fuse recommendation, or will this one off battery be larger and one right before pump be smaller? (If there is one there)

What's the older starter without helper worth to sell quickly? Appears to be in really good shape. I'll have to test it of course.

You can run to the battery, or the large terminal on the slave solenoid ( the one with the red wire) or the battery post on the starter, whatever is easiest.

Use the the fuse included with your kit in the power line, and use an inline fuse recommended by the pump manufacturer in the wire to the pump. The one off the battery will be larger and the one to the pump will be smaller.
 

proshadetree

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The top of most of those oil pressure switches look like 80s model headlight plugs. When you get the switch pick up a plug from the parts store. It will keep it neat with a factory appearance.
 

aarons 470

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Hi guys, hoping to get back to it Tomm. Busy holidays with my 4 wild boys.
So on the fuse, there is a recommendation on fuse size just before pump. (It's a smaller one)
I don't have a kit, so when I add one to the direct power where drawing shows a circuit breaker, what do you guys recommend?

And on the location, I was thinking I'd mount pump near back of fuel tank on the crossmember in between tank and engine.

so it would be below fuel level of tank. I would install a clear inline filter before pump.

This would make the pump hidden when engine cowl is in place. Not sure where else I could put it where it would be exposed and be below fuel level of tank? As you guys know they push better than pull.

Directions recomend not hiding the pump. not sure why, if it's plumbed properly shouldn't be able to spill fuel? Anywhere I could put it below tank it would have to be below cowl.
 

alldodge

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The fuse should be what the pump manufacture recommends, or slightly larger then what is listed on the pump, Use 10 amp for 7 amp pump, use 5 amp for 3 amp pump, etc

The pump should be even with top of the tank or a bit below, and after the fuel filter. Make sure you have an anti-siphon valve installed on the tank.

Does not matter if pump is hidden or not with engine cover on. You just don't want to hid so other parts have to be removed to see it. They are talking about if it was installed behind another panel, or in a locker in somewhere else.

Do NOT use clear tubing for gas line, use only USCG Type A1 fuel line
 

proshadetree

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Also beware of any clear filters on inboard installs. They are generally all metal. In the event of a engine fire the clear plastic ones melt accelerating the fire. Proper line and filter choice will ensure a safer vessel.
 

aarons 470

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Ok thanks guys. I have a canister type water sep filter mounted on transom. But I will add metal inline type before pump.

Yes now hat you mention it, my plastic one needs to go back to store. Hadn't thought about it melting.

On the fuse issue, pump has size recommended with instructions. I'm wondering what main size to use right off the main power source to it.

Location On the drawing where it shows a circuit breaker. Maybe it's not necessary?
 

aarons 470

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My starter and solenoid work. But solenoid now needs replacing. I was taking the old connectors off and one of the small studs, and part of the plastic housing broke off. Old and brittle.

I cleaned up starter and repainted. The outside was pretty rusty. I'm not sure how much corrosion got into the inside. But it works, not sure if I can do anything else to it? Gear to flywheel pops out and it spins.
 

alldodge

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Ok thanks guys. I have a canister type water sep filter mounted on transom. But I will add metal inline type before pump.

No, fuel should come out of the tank, go thru the anti-siphon valve (attached to the tank) type A1 fuel line, then to canister filter, more fuel line, then fuel pump, more fuel line, then carb
 

aarons 470

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I ordered these aluminum bolt assemblies for the engine mount. Also ordered new bushings for the flywheel housing. Those weren't cheap!

I got my aluminum exhaust manifold tigged and resurfaced. Looks better than new where the repair is.

My backyard mechanic buddy isn't getting the free time to help me set the engine. I may be on my own, and this thread may get long, lol
 

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aarons 470

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Ok Dodge so no inline filter? This boat came with the canister mounted to transom. I'll move it down. Sounds like canister takes care of debris to not just water separating?
 

aarons 470

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My new solenoid that mounts to starter didn't come with a new gasket? I pulled old rubber one off from old one, it isnt in the best shape but looks like it would still work. I put a little aviation sealant on it then bolted it up.

Curious if the gaskets are still used on the solenoid?
 
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aarons 470

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I think I need to get a mercruiser Manual. I found #8 on eBay. But it says it's for newer 470s 85-89 if I remember right.

Is there a manual for my engine- Maybe it doesn't matter and #8 is ok for reassembly procedures? Boat is an 83 engine and was stock with boat, but it comes up as an 82 model serial number.
 

aarons 470

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Nice, I can print some of that up on Tuesday at work. I can't get PDF with my stuff.

So the shroud is the first reinstall after the flapper elbow piece. What mounts the shroud to the boat? Just standard galvanized lag type bolts?

After mounting that, is it time to line up engine to shroud and bolt up? My engine is reasembled other than head and manifold etc.

I have intalled a couple v-8s in older cars and wired up, got running etc. so I think I'll be ok on this boat. but I'll need steps to get engine mounted, don't want to miss anything.

I put new bushings in the flywheel/motor mount housing. And have the proper bolts and fancy washers- other than the bolts that mount to deck.
 

aarons 470

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Where do the lifting rings go, that mount to the head?

And on the exhaust side of head-I noticed there are 2 tapped holes at each end of head-that open into where the head bolts go through.

I thought at least one ring went through one of these, (not sure which one) but what about the one diagonal from this?

And whatever bolt is put in where head bolt is, does it need to be sealed with aviation sealant etc?

Rings will be a nice bonus when mounting this behemoth, lol.

Thanks
 

alldodge

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Unable to help with some of your questions, hope the 470 guys come back
Only thing I can offer is the galvanized bolts should be fine
 

aarons 470

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Ok thanks dodge. I'm having the short block mounted at a shop. Want to make sure it's aligned correctly.

I think after that I'll be ok with forum help.

Does anyone apply copper coat to their head gaskets?

And another question, my machinist that built the engine said don't retorque these head bolts. Once is all you do. (Maybe he meant don't do it hot?)

He's been building engines for 40 years. But consensus here is retorque them. So not sure what to do about this.
 
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