57 Evinrude 35hp crankshaft end play

[HighTrim]

Pull off the mag plate (4 screws Mas mentioned. Then pull off brass retaining ring. Under that, the alum ring should be flat side up, not tapered side up. If the previous owner put it tapered side up, the plate wobbles.

EDIT sorry did not read page 2, I see that has already been mentioned!

 

[89Aluma]

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[Mas]

That rod seems a bit bent up. I'm not sure of factory shape, but I straightened mine so both horizontal lengths are parallel.

The pics below were taken during the restoration process of my '57 Lark...note the set screw is not yet adjusted in these pics:

 

[rolmops]

I used to run my 1957 35 horse on a1:32 mix and it did just fine. In a 1961 bulletin OMC stated that the 1957 can be run on 1:50 because it has needle bearings. I never wanted to take that chance.

 

[Mas]

The '57 has split needle bearing in the piston wrist pins...double that trouble...stick with the 24:1 IMO

Mas

 

[89Aluma]

Mas thank you very very much for the pictures those are exactly what I needed to see to know how to straighten that link!! I pan to run just a bit lighter than 24:1 in hopes it eases the starting process some. I pulled and pulled and pulled on it and wound up spraying some fuel mix into the carb and it started right up. The carb is clean, I don't have the flywheel off yet but the coils look like they've been replaced, the points are at 20 thou. Compression on both cylinders is 120 I just can't seem to figure out why it's troublesome to start

 

[89Aluma]

Roll mop and high trim thank you for your input! That's good info

 

[Mas]

The 35 hp has a lot of compression and would be very hard to rope over manually to gain reasonable rotation rate if the "cylinder decompression valves" are not working. Also, it the motor is not properly tuned, you'll wear out first!

 

[Chinewalker]

Mas thank you very very much for the pictures those are exactly what I needed to see to know how to straighten that link!! I pan to run just a bit lighter than 24:1 in hopes it eases the starting process some. I pulled and pulled and pulled on it and wound up spraying some fuel mix into the carb and it started right up. The carb is clean, I don't have the flywheel off yet but the coils look like they've been replaced, the points are at 20 thou. Compression on both cylinders is 120 I just can't seem to figure out why it's troublesome to start

Your fuel mix has nothing to do with the hard starting issue. Stick to the richer 24:1. 50:1 wasn't JUST about needle bearings. It was also about tolerances, which were more closely regulated by the 1964 cut-off when the whole line from 5.5hp on up had thermostats.

Check to make sure your choke is closing all the way, and remains closed while you're roping it over. Sometimes the springs that hold it in place can be loose or missing entirely, allowing it to open up...

 

[89Aluma]

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It came missing that linkage, so there's really no hope of getting that to work. I may try alittle hotter sparkplug and make sure the ignition system is in good shape I'm rebuilding the lower end now, looks pretty good, had obvious water intrusion caramel colored oil and not much oil left in it... but the gears all look good I got all the seals out too already about 20 minutes of work

 

[F_R]

If you are expecting a "hotter" spark plug to improve starting, you are in for a disappointment. All spark plugs are cold before it starts.

 

[89Aluma]

Thanks fir your reply no I wasn't expecting a better start from the plugs that's only going to come with getting the timing right the carb set right and the ignition system in tip top condition that's what I'm getting out of everyone's replies. I've read that a lot of people are going to hotter plugs to get a bit more efficient burn from my understanding.

 

[Chinewalker]

Going to a hotter plug than recommended won't be more efficient, but it may lead to a hole in your piston...

 

[oldboat1]

^^Would stick with the Champions (J4 or J6). Choke operation is critical for cold starting, as has been mentioned -- plate has to snap tightly shut. Good spark is critical (think 3/8" is the standard, measured with an open air tester -- $10 or so at an auto parts store). Additionally, I strongly recommend disassembling and cleaning the upper part of the carb (idle circuit).

You've had a bunch of good input. I'll add this: It's a good candidate for electric-start conversion, if that becomes a point of interest. With a little looking, you can usually salvage parts from sister motors (starter and bracket, primarily). Starter circuit wiring for it can be kept very simple.

 

[89Aluma]

I've looked into the electric start and have been very tempted to start collecting the parts but they do seem to be somewhat of a rare find, and the ones you find with most of the parts are a few hundred $dollars$ I'm 22 and shouldn't have an issue pull staring it I just want it to start in 3 or less pulls so I can still cast

 

[Mas]

Can you take a pic of your motor to confirm the year?

The '57 has decompression valves by the spark plugs to aid in rope starting...the '56 does not.

Mas

 

[racerone]

Sparkplug " heat range " has nothing to do with the intensity of the spark !----There is a longer path for heat to get away from the tip on hotter plugs.----Best to set up the magneto for hottest spark using the timing marks on the magplate and flywheel.------Good spark on that magneto should jump a gap of 5/16" with ease.

 

[89Aluma]

No Title

Thank you all again for your valuable and much appreciated input, here are a few pictures so far

 

[HighTrim]

Ah so you have a Sleeper!

That is a '57 35hp Evinrude powerhead on a '56 Johnson 30hp Body.

I hope you are using the 35hp carb as well? Can you take some better pictures of it?

 

[HighTrim]

Ive got a feeling that you have the 30hp carb on there as it is still using the 30hp Silencer. That may be part of your problem. Never tried it myself, but I don't think the motor would run right with that setup.